TB-01 question?
 

Hey there,

I have a couple of questions about the TB-01, i want to go race with it in the onroad stock class.
these are the hopups sofar:
Carbon chassis.
Alu drive shaft.
lightweight gears.
alu motor mount.
alu racing stering set.
alu shock set.

1. I want to make the drivetrain lighter, i have the alu drive schaft and the lightweight gears. Are the balldiffs lighter than the geardiffs and if so how much (How much does the balldiff weights). and is it worth the mony.

2. I tried the car on my local track last year and the car seems to have alot of understeer. Controlled tire is HPI B15-40. i tried everything but nothing helped. My HPI Pro 3 runs fine on them and my brothers TC3 to.
Could the Long suspension arm set help resolving this problem in any way.

Thanks to anyone who tries to help.

The long arm set makes a big difference in the car, if you have the money bypass anymore hop-ups for the car and get an EVO3 it will have the new geometry alot lighter diffs and better car all around.

If you stay with the car as before get the long arm set and ball diffs for it


Dan

Thank jou for your comment but first of all i have spend alot of money on this car, i like the looks of it and i dont want it to be a eyecatcher only.
Second the TB-EVO 3 look like a greate car and i realy realy realy would like to have one but i dont have the $$$$$:cry: :cry: :cry:
Here in the netherlands it is even more expensive than a FT TC3, and i dont know since this is a limited edition car how fast and how good the spareparts are available here.

So for now i just want to make the best of what i got a almost TB-EVO:D .

If there is anyone else out there with a TB-01 or knows something/ has experiance with the balldiff please let me know.
If the balldiff won't make a big difference i might buy the universal shafts.

Greatz Mark

Perhaps Im so fortunate with my Full race TBO1. I dont recall any problem regarding my steering, it works jaz fine. I guess all you need is to tune your car at your local race track>>> Gud luck buddy!;)

With the carbon chassis I had a problem with gears stripping in the front gearbox. the chassis has a ton of flex and allows the main drive shaft to jam into the gearbox and cause havok.......

i have a theory to the understeering problem. you know how the tb evo 3 has all the stuff on the other side? it's suppoesed to improve handling or something. maybe with the carbon chassis you could flip the lower plate over and turn the alum motor mount and everthing to the other side and see if it actually improves the handling :nod: if it does, tell me so i can do the same thing with mine. :D

guy's who have upgraded tbo1's have put in thing's to add tension to the chassis making a few modifacation's to the car:(
another that they all recomend drill some hole's out of the chassis where the batteries are and a little out of where the electronic's sit it help's get the weaight down also not to many hole's the car will become slightly less strong with each hole so spread them apart keep in mind ballance.don't do it if u got a carbon fibre chasis.
:p
some nice light weight shock tower's help to check what companie's make upgrade's for tamiya and try thi site for tamiya part's it's dirt cheap
www.rainbowten.co.jp

hope this help's

I'd go for the lightened drive shaft, light gears, alum shocks and long arm suspension set. You can get away with the gear diffs, which are heavier than ball diffs and don't really need much anything else if you are looking to save or not spend alot. Drilling the chassis could help get air to the batteries and motor just becareful about strength.

I would not spend a lot of money on the car when by the time you get the hopups you can have a EVOIII.

The TB01 is a tank and can be fun for onroad and offroad racing.

Coop

stoopidbstrd the understeering has nothing to do with the electronics beeing on the other side of the car, you might have a some torksteer (car will go one side when pushing the trottle).
The car has also understeer in both directions.
I have tried softer springs in front and stabilizor in the back.

Mostlikely its a tire problem because when i run on the street with Corrally SSA or SSB rubber tires or Foam tires i dont have this problem.
So with the B15-40 beeing a conrtolled tire at the track i will trie some other inserts and see how it will react to that.

I never had any problems with the ringgears and yes i use the plasting ones plus the alu drive shaft.

Asfar as modifing the car i was planning on drilling some holes underneath the motor and the spurgear. asfar as flipping the motormount theres is noway thas is gooing to work because:
-you have to make new battery slots.
-put the motor mount streight or it will eat all your spurgears.
-your motormount BB will fall out if on the other way.
- and with all this drilling and modifing you wont have any lower chassis plate left to mount things on because it will look like Swiss chees :sweat: :weird: :ha:

anyone know how part number?
 

calling all TB01 or TG10 experts...

i broke the 2x10mm cap screw that goes in the center of the ball diff... does anyone know what part/hopup has that screw

i don't want to have to buy a whole new ball diff just for that little part... whats another part that has it?

:(