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Old 06-08-2006, 05:02 PM   #16
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Thnx Jonny and Jon, Patdick oh sorry I meant Patriick I have read the Xray setup manual, I have a T2, I think you need to read it if anything, I was simply stating that more droop in the front does not give you more on power steering, as it says in the link you greatly provided for all of us, I think most people will agree with me on that. Oh by the way if you need to know what pages to look in the manual for effects of droop adjustments in the Huddy all in one set up system, it starts on page 38 at the bottom, read up!
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Old 06-08-2006, 05:49 PM   #17
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Thanks for your imput every body it i really appritiate it.
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Old 06-08-2006, 06:49 PM   #18
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This was my point about the droop gauge method being confusing. When one person says more droop they think bigger number, while others know that the larger the number when measured on a droop gauge like the Losi or hudy actually means less droop.

Thats why I keep it simple and measure extension over ride height.
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Droop is the amount the suspension is allowed to hang down when the chassis is lifted. It will effect how weight is transfered as the car goes around the track. IMO, the best way to measure it is to measure it above ride height. If you have the cars ride height at 5mm and you lift one end of the car until the tires are just barely touching your setup board, use your ride height gauge and measure from the same place again. The difference between this measurement and your static ride height measurement is your "True Droop" setting. (Ex: 5mm static ride height and lifted until the tires are just touching you measure 8mm, you have 3mm of droop.) Droop gauges are good for making sure your droop is the same from side to side but are pretty useless for getting actual droop. The reason is that your ride height, tire diameter (if you're running foams) lower pivot block locations etc... all can effect your true droop setting but not if you're using a droop gauge. If you lower your ride height by .5mm and leave the droop measurement on a droop gauge the same, you'll actually have .5mm more droop than you did before. As for what it does to the handling, a good general rule of thumb is that more droop one one end will allow more weight to transfer to the opposite end of the car. So more rear droop should put more weight on the front of the car under braking, therefore more off power steering. More front droop should give less on power steering as it's allowing more weight to transfer to the rear, planting the back of the car.

WELL SAID! Thats the way everyone should be doing it, its 100% transferable to any brand or class of car...

I try to not even use the term DROOP, but rather use UPTRAVEL.
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Old 06-08-2006, 08:05 PM   #20
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That would be down travel would it not?
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Old 06-08-2006, 08:18 PM   #21
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Sure. Uptravel from ride height. Height of chassis when shocks are at full extention. Call it what you like... as long as we are measure the same thing.
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Old 06-08-2006, 09:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
WELL SAID! Thats the way everyone should be doing it, its 100% transferable to any brand or class of car...

I try to not even use the term DROOP, but rather use UPTRAVEL.
Thanks Joel.
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