SlamMan

I bought my first RC a couple days ago. Thank you to all that have provided information and advice so far.

Against some good suggestions about drive shaft cars and rookies not mixing well I got a Pro4. I figured I would only be racing stock at first and the car would force me to learn good throttle controll.

Can't wait til it gets here. Got it off eBay. You can see it at the following link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1

It's coming with a 2mm and 2.5mm chassis, Trinity GM3 stock motor with cooling heat sink, Airtronics 94758 Digital servo and a pit box with new spare parts, drive shafts, gears,sway bars, and springs.

What do you think?

Since this is my first RC I still need to buy everything else. Here is my shopping list so far and the real purpose of this post.

Radio/Receiver (looking at JR XS3)
ESC (Not sure yet, Maybe Novak GTS?)
Batteries (how many? no idea?)
Charger (no idea?)

If there is anything else I should have or would be nice to have please help me add to the list. I can't believe how much there is to learn about this hobby.

Thx!

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

You can look at it from a couple angles....one being get some decent stuff and it'll be fine for a while. Then you'll want to upgrade and it will cost more money. Or you can get the best stuff right off the bat and your set. This is what I would suggest:

ESC: Go for a good competition esc..look at the motor limit and BEC voltage. The Novak GTS only supplies 4.8 volts to the servo. The GTX and other high end esc' provede 6 volts...hence a much faster servo. My choices are: KO PROPO VFS-1 NOVAK GTX...or maybe a GTB if brushless is in your future.

Radio: Once again there is nothing wrong with lower end radios, but the good competition radios offer better signal strength, more adjustments and a better working life. My choices are: KO PROPO HELIOS - FUTABA 3PK - AIRTRONICS M11

Batteries ...go with 3 good matched IB3800s. I use Promatch as a matcher, but there are many good matchers out there...SMC-EA MOTORSPORTS-DC MOTORSPORTS etc. etc.

Both the ESC and Radio you can pick up for a big savings from new on these boards. Just amke sure they have a good trader feedback and you should be in good shape. As far as batteries go, I would get them new. I really don't think you want someone elses leftovers...Would you sell your good batteries, or would you get rid of the packs that are subpar???

SlamMan

You've got some good points. Maybe I'll just go for the GTB. As far as I know I can use it on a brushed motor, right?

After some looking arround (and discovering Spektrum!) I think I'll go with the Helios TX only and the Spektrum setup. How does that sound?

When it comes to batterys you're kinda over my head there. Can you explain what matched batteries are? I expect that will explain what a matcher is.

Fastburn

iTrader: (18)

I agree with Civic91, you can get some really nice stuff for a good price off the for sale board. I know the 3pks are a great radio, and you can buy them used for a good price with a couple receivers and some crystals.
Esc, same deal, the stuff I would buy new would be your motor and batteries. I bought some Hyperform batteries, and they are not bad. You need at least 3 packs, and you can get a deal if you buy 3 from them. I think other companies do this as well.
In the end, you are buying used equipment, but you get more bang for your buck, always buy the best you can, as you end up having to buy it again in the end if you get serious into racing. The other side of the coin is, if you buy better equipment, it holds its price better for when and if you go to sell it again.

rc_bam226

Matched batteries are those with identical voltages and runtimes.

A matcher is company that buys unmatched batteries in bulk, treats them to a voltage increasing process, cycles them, and then groups packs together by identical voltages and runtimes.

Fastburn

iTrader: (18)

the whole point to Matched batteries is that you see what the batteries are capable of. They are all "matched" to have the same discharge rates so that when you are racing, you dont have one cell start to dump before another causing your battery pack to feel flat and gutless. Also when you charge them, you dont have one cell peak before another causing a battery pack to not have a full charge and getting a good heat out of it.

helios is good choice too, I know lots of the local guys use them.

SlamMan

Thanks for the explination guys. As a beginner do I need matched batteries? Wether or not I need the should I get them so I don't have to upgrade to them later? Now that I think about it does my Pro4 require matched batteries?

Also, what is the difference between a 3600, 3800 and 4200 battery? I'm sure it refferences performance but what does the number refference and how is it important? I'll start racing stock then move up later so how do I pick a battery?

Are there any other numbers that are important?

Kwikvdub

iTrader: (100)

Welcome to the wonderful world of R/C Racing!!............. When you go to your local track, you will learn a ton of info from the fast guys. Observe and listen. Don't buy everything all at once and don't expect to learn everything all at once. The joy of this Hobby is to learn everything as you go along.

Inspect and go over everything on your car and find out how everything works. Really learn your car well. Slap a stock motor on there and get a local hotshoe to go over the set-up with you. There are many things in making your car work on the track. But don't be overwhelmed. Ask a lot of questions and take advantage of lots of track time.

In time you will learn everything you need to know to go fast around the track. Take baby steps and don't get frustrated. Hang in there and enjoy every minute of it.

...............Racing your car around the track indoor or out will get better and that's where the Big Fun is.

Good Luck with your new venture. You came to the right place!!

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

It won't require matched packs, but even unmatched packs go for around $35-40. A decent matched pack is gonna be around $50-55. I wouldn't say you have to have them, but I would strongly advise you to get them. I have personally seen unmatched cells go bad because they are so uneven as far as voltage and runtime. When you charge them 1 cell gets all the way full, one over full...2 or 3 under full...you get the idea.

Matched packs are worth the extra couple bux.

You will have to have side by side configuration on your cells though. Which means either building the pack yourself or spending a couple bux to have the matcher build them.

And yes, the GTB can run either brushless or brushed motors.


Heres a breakdown on the cells:

IB3600 (released a little more than a year ago...about 3600 mah (run time) good voltage

IB3800 (released about 6-9months ag...about 3800-4100 mah better voltage. Best all around cell...usually allowed everywhere.

IB4200...newest IB cell. at least 4200 mah great voltage...more money and not allwed everywhere yet


GP3300...been out for several years...great cell, old technology.

GP3700 A lot of racers prefer these over the IBs, but I have had great luck with IBs, so I ahve stuck with them.

I'd say pick up 3-4 packs of IB3800s and your set.

SlamMan

Thanks for the welcome, Kwik.

Thanks for the continued info, Civic.

So the 3600/3800/4200 refer to run time. What does the 'IB' and 'GP' refference? What's the difference? What does MAH stand for?

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

Its the companies initials...if I remember correctly they are

IB Intellect Batteries.

GP Gold Peak

SlamMan

Thanks again. Last question for this thread. Then I have to go soak all this in.

What features and specs do I look for in a charger and what companies make good chargers?

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Duratrax Ice would be a great charger for the money. Specs to look for:

Max Amps Charge - 10A is good but you will likely charge at 6A
Discharge Rate - 30A is great but most chargers only have 10A or less so most people get seperate dischargers
Motor Run-In features are nice
General Ease of use
Capable of charging NIMH is required
Capable of charging LIPO if you want to do that in the future

That is all thats coming to my head right now. The only big pitfalls with the ICE is the lack of a back lite screen and only a 10A discharge rate.

Fastburn

iTrader: (18)

Agreed, Duratrax ICE, or an Orion Advantage charger.
Both will be a relevant charger in years to come as they both can do Lipo packs, which is a different form of battery from the standard Nimh packs that were being talked about above.
I would agree with Civic91 and spend the extra money to buy matched packs if you can, and either 3700 or 3800. I run both and love both.
Most guys that run electric in my province all have a GFX, which is a high end charger, but all have a backup like an ICE or Advantage. the price difference is amazing, and with the money you would save for not buying a GFX, I would also recommend buying either a Novak Smart tray or an Integy 0-30 discharger. These items help keep your matched packs in good shape.
I know its easy for us to spend your money for you, but you are asking the right questions early on and these items will help you out immediatly and in the long run.

SlamMan

Thanks again, Fastburn and or8ital. I'll check out both of those chargers.

Is there anything else a newbie should have?

What's this LiPo battery stuff?