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Old 06-22-2006, 11:54 PM   #346
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Well if you ask me, if it works I'll pay for it. Do I reflect most racers? I doubt it, but that is something you'll have to decide. On the other hand, as you start your project,most racers will probably never see or buy your car, unfortunately that is the reality of it. My hobby room is filled with cars and stuff that it has become rediculous, but heh that's why they call it a hobby. My suggestion is to make the most of a car that can still keep the price competitive with the high end cars. Fit as much as you can in to a car that will sell for around a street price of $400. BTW, I think most company's hop ups are often corrections and improvements to their original design. If you come out with different durometers of plastic for arms at a later time and call it a hop up, I don't think that is a problem, but that's probably a different angle on the definition of Hop Up which is much different than a Hop Up for a Revo or 18T where the part has no added functionality.
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Old 06-22-2006, 11:56 PM   #347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Point taken. Where was I going with this?

not sure but it was cool I liked it and it helped me in a few places
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:02 AM   #348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Well if you ask me, if it works I'll pay for it. Do I reflect most racers? I doubt it, but that is something you'll have to decide. On the other hand, as you start your project,most racers will probably never see or buy your car, unfortunately that is the reality of it. My hobby room is filled with cars and stuff that it has become rediculous, but heh that's why they call it a hobby. My suggestion is to make the most of a car that can still keep the price competitive with the high end cars. Fit as much as you can in to a car that will sell for around a street price of $400. BTW, I think most company's hop ups are often corrections and improvements to their original design. If you come out with different durometers of plastic for arms at a later time and call it a hop up, I don't think that is a problem, but that's probably a different angle on the definition of Hop Up which is much different than a Hop Up for a Revo or 18T where the part has no added functionality.


Your right but I do not call them hopups here at MLP we call them updates! well if we find we needed to change something. heck at one point I even had a recall on 8 F1 cars but I do look at hopups as the Bling factor!

Thanks Budy! this was Fun if nothing more as I cought up carbon fiber dust! and wait till the air cleared
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eBay item number: 200947192161,200947193175,200947187493
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:05 AM   #349
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Well I'm signing off. Tomorrow I'm going to Wyoming to race in their Trophy race. Got to get in as much racing as possible before my new job starts and my free time gone. Good luck, I'll check back here again soon. Might have to put a deposit down too.
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:13 AM   #350
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Thanks and Good luck to you as well in the race or just do what I do and say I do not need luck I will win it anyway

and when I do not win it mudt be the car or no it was the motor .1mm to much on the lathe or it could have been the tires why is it they do not make tires to cover all temps and track Conditions turn marshall block my line in that last turn that is why I hit the borads wideopen and never once thought of making the car turn.
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:15 AM   #351
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Talking Mmmmmmmm............... food ....... ops wrong topic

G'day to all people of this thread from down-under(Australia to those how doesnt know).

1st, hat off to Marty for having the intuative to make his own chassis. I myself have been away from rc for the past half year and is thinking of getting back to racing. Being an ex-yokomo owner, i was considering if i should go back to yokomo camp or startout with another, just when i happen to pass by this thread.

The car itself looks great if anything. But after browsing through all the pictures and the threats, few question springs to mind (thou some of it might have been answered).

1. Hows the flex like in this car? Judging by the picture, with single screw holding the top plate to the motor mount, it seems like it will flex quite alot (almost like t2 on the most flexible setting).

2. Also mention somewhere in the post that a thicker top deck is available. Will it be included in the final production kit as well?

3. on the subject of flex, i did notice some middle holes in the chassis, behind the motor mount (might have been placed for mounting the motor mount), can that be used for sum-sort of a chassis brace? (if i change the motor mount to the rear configuration, is it possible to do the same for the front?)

4. Also wat is the tweak like in the car? does it requires constant un-tweaking or is it like the fk05 that can stand stand up to a few dishing before requiring any un-tweaking?

5. HPI in my part of the country as a very bad reputation for their part support. I know this has been mention before that this car can use arms from other manufacturer, I was wondering if a yoke arm will fit and if so how does it affect the wheel base and width of the car? As my local track has been famous for destroying arms and knuckles.

6. Universals joint and out drives are also a big consumsion on my local track, what type or brand is the front universal from? (be it hybrid or if it's ur own universal design, how does it cope with a direct impact?)

7. Earlier in this post, sumone mention about using out drive diff rings and cvd
blades. whats the out come on those? will it be part of the design?

8. It is said that this chassis will include most if not all the tunning part. Does that mean it will come with a rear toe block? If so wat are the increment of those block?

9. Since this is a belt car, how is the belt tensioning adjusted?

10. I know this question must have been asked a million and one time, Any empty spot in the factory drivers seat left?

Again, I'll like to appologuise for the long post and for any of these question that may have been ask before. Anyway, keep up the good work and hope a review will come pretty soon.
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:18 AM   #352
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Oh boy G/Day Mate! this will take a little time ok just read on or go for a beer or 3 ok LOL
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:47 AM   #353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muahaha
G'day to all people of this thread from down-under(Australia to those how doesnt know).
1st, hat off to Marty for having the intuative to make his own chassis. I myself have been away from rc for the past half year and is thinking of getting back to racing. Being an ex-yokomo owner, i was considering if i should go back to yokomo camp or startout with another, just when i happen to pass by this thread.

The car itself looks great if anything. But after browsing through all the pictures and the threats, few question springs to mind (thou some of it might have been answered).

Again, I'll like to appologuise for the long post and for any of these question that may have been ask before. Anyway, keep up the good work and hope a review will come pretty soon.





1. Hows the flex like in this car? Judging by the picture, with single screw holding the top plate to the motor mount, it seems like it will flex quite alot (almost like t2 on the most flexible setting).

Well if you undo the 2 plate screws you get a lot of flex (I am look for a way to make it adjustable but for now Jonn (our Driver) is testing it with the old screw and nut system. when it is set down and not moving you get about 2 to 3 mm of side flex then as you undo it you can get even more up to 6mm of flex maybe.

2. Also mention somewhere in the post that a thicker top deck is available. Will it be included in the final production kit as well?

Yes it will have the standard top plate and the next one is a one ppiece top plate front to rear with side post mounts front and rear like the Xray

3. on the subject of flex, i did notice some middle holes in the chassis, behind the motor mount (might have been placed for mounting the motor mount), can that be used for sum-sort of a chassis brace? (if i change the motor mount to the rear configuration, is it possible to do the same for the front?)

yes there is a Chassis brace for the front just under the mount and one in the rear I will see if I can find a picture of it.

4. Also wat is the tweak like in the car? does it requires constant un-tweaking or is it like the fk05 that can stand stand up to a few dishing before requiring any un-tweaking?

I found it to be fine after 6 races in a row there was on sign of Tweak at all but I only hit the boards once and another car once Jonn will let me know how it is soon ok.

5. HPI in my part of the country as a very bad reputation for their part support. I know this has been mention before that this car can use arms from other manufacturer, I was wondering if a yoke arm will fit and if so how does it affect the wheel base and width of the car? As my local track has been famous for destroying arms and knuckles.

If you wanted Yokomo we will do yokomo I did use these first I felt it was real good but here in the midwest or online it is hard to get them and all of the hobby shops I have been to here always have a full line of AE and HPI.
this was one of the only reason I went with them. Plus I but stuff and ship it overseas all the time (check out our F1s)


6. Universals joint and out drives are also a big consumsion on my local track, what type or brand is the front universal from? (be it hybrid or if it's ur own universal design, how does it cope with a direct impact?)

they are Yokomo and they were fine in the testing I did but we have a 30 day test on going right now and we will find out more over the next 30 days but I feel they will be fine.

7. Earlier in this post, sumone mention about using out drive diff rings and cvd
blades. whats the out come on those? will it be part of the design?

yes it will be part of the Design the rings are on the car now and I am the blades fit the diff right now!

8. It is said that this chassis will include most if not all the tunning part. Does that mean it will come with a rear toe block? If so wat are the increment of those block?

Yes I will be Machining toe blocks 0 .5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 so .5 increment

9. Since this is a belt car, how is the belt tensioning adjusted?

front to back in a slot and it can also be shimed

10. I know this question must have been asked a million and one time, Any empty spot in the factory drivers seat left?

That you would need to email Jonn Erbmann he is the man to talk to on that ok. link is here look down!

Thank you any more Question you can always email me off of my website!
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Selling HPI F10 Front Knuckles and Complete Rear Axles W/Diffs Ball and Gear.
W/12mm TC Hubs & W/14mm F1 Hubs Good for std bearing Pans cars. STD Bearings!
eBay item number: 200947192161,200947193175,200947187493
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:09 AM   #354
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that was a quick reply thanks......... now ............to buy ...... or not to buy ...... that remains a question that i hopefully can answer within the next few days .................. oh well, time for another chug m8.
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:18 AM   #355
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Here is the rear we move to the front for a test to have both up front and no rear post. ok
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Selling HPI F10 Front Knuckles and Complete Rear Axles W/Diffs Ball and Gear.
W/12mm TC Hubs & W/14mm F1 Hubs Good for std bearing Pans cars. STD Bearings!
eBay item number: 200947192161,200947193175,200947187493

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Old 06-23-2006, 04:14 AM   #356
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very interesting.......... btw, noticed that ur using the yoke damper, one of the better if not the best damper i ever used. Try running the rayspeed cups and springs together with the yellow rubber seal with one o-rings in between the caps, i find it gives the car damper the most linear feel on the asphalt and the rayspeed springs gives the damper a longer stroke making the transaction even smoother. if a slight quicker response is need switch back to the original shorter spring set and maintain the the longer ones at the rear. Also if needed a stiffer spring rate the black springs from the yoke gt4 can be used and if part is available, try running the rayspeed o-rings as well, makes the damper silky smooth. A little tip from a guy who races too much yoke car .
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Old 06-23-2006, 04:26 AM   #357
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I will try that on the next V2 of the car Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2006, 05:39 PM   #358
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i know that you a small business doing this out of your own pocket, but whats taking so long? love your car and i wish they raced TC in KY by Ft Campbell. It keeps further away from my OVA Neo that i miss
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Old 06-23-2006, 06:15 PM   #359
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One We want to finish testing and updating the car I do not want to come out with a car to just come out with a car I want the best car I can do within our time/Budget - Frame and as for the OVA yes it is moving away from that we took a good car for its day and are making it better and more upto date with todays cars So we started with a Base car(OVA)and set out to change it I never said I was remaking the OVA car ok sorry.
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Old 06-23-2006, 11:40 PM   #360
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I was j/k in all reality. we as racers are fortunate to witness the building of a sweet race car. it is incredibly hard to please everyone as you are breginning to see. As for remaking an OVA car better I cant wait drive one and feel your hard work put to practical use on the track. It is amazing to me the amount of input you are receiving both biased and unbiased and how you constantly get your knowledge questioned as if you have not already thought of many issues prior to someone else asking, as if they were the first ever to think of it. R&D is just that and I am sure you will give us a car that we can love to drive.

Thanks
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