R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-20-2006, 07:04 AM   #1
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Send a message via ICQ to rcnewb2004
Default Titanium screws / Aluminum screws ?

I want to buy the new EVO V coming out from Tamiya... pondering do I want titanium screws or aluminum screws? what's the difference?

Since the bulkheads of the EVO V will be aluminum... if i have aluminum screws will there be anything i have to beware of? are there any special ways to make sure the screws don't come out?

How bout aluminum bulkheads and titanium screws?

This is my first high performance RC.. (i have a ta04, but back then... the bulkheads were plastic)... so i would want to know more.

thx for helping me out.
rcnewb2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 08:43 AM   #2
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,152
Default

Alu is a hair lighter than titanium

But titanium is a lot lot lot more stronger than alu.

When screwing into metal, we all must use blue colour liquid loctite...
Ben.C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 09:11 AM   #3
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb2004
I want to buy the new EVO V coming out from Tamiya... pondering do I want titanium screws or aluminum screws? what's the difference?

Since the bulkheads of the EVO V will be aluminum... if i have aluminum screws will there be anything i have to beware of? are there any special ways to make sure the screws don't come out?

How bout aluminum bulkheads and titanium screws?

This is my first high performance RC.. (i have a ta04, but back then... the bulkheads were plastic)... so i would want to know more.

thx for helping me out.
The aluminum screws look a little better in my opinion. But, they strip very easy, and their a pain to get out. Titanium is harder to strip, and you can crank down on them to make a tighter fit. You really can't crank down on the aluminum screws, eventually you will screw up and strip them out.
Juan Aveytia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 09:25 AM   #4
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Send a message via ICQ to rcnewb2004
Default

Thanks for the reply...

I will sacrifice beauty for strength in this case...

titanium it is. thanks for the replies.

I have another question... anyone have a picture of something about how much loctite is a good amount of loctite?
rcnewb2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 09:29 AM   #5
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hayward, CA
Posts: 1,327
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

If TAMIYA makes a screw set for the EVO5(I am sure that they will)I'm sure it will be the same as others set for TAMIYA cars. For the MSX, it's titanium on the bottom and aluminum on most of the top. I think the same goes for the TA05(not sure).

I agree with Juan, aluminum do look nice but can strip or brake easy. I been using both ti and aluminum on my MSX with no problems. If you wait for the screw set, it will be cheaper than buying different sizes. I am sure that Steve at speedtechrc will have an all ti screw set when this car come out.
JoeyE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 09:34 AM   #6
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Send a message via ICQ to rcnewb2004
Default

Also, are tamiya "titanium screws" pure titanium?

i mean... if they call them titanium screws because its 10% titanium... 90% combo of cr*p (soft) metals.... it still doesn't make the screw that tough....
rcnewb2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 09:43 AM   #7
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hayward, CA
Posts: 1,327
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb2004
Also, are tamiya "titanium screws" pure titanium?

i mean... if they call them titanium screws because its 10% titanium... 90% combo of cr*p (soft) metals.... it still doesn't make the screw that tough....

I don't know if most screws out on the market is 100% ti(maybe someone will know). You can still strip out ti screws if you are not carful. I never put any loctite on my screws. Just makes it harder to take out if you want to rebuild or align something. You also need a good 2mm head tool! Get Hudy or something just as good. Cheaper tools will strip the screw heads.
JoeyE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 09:56 AM   #8
Tech Addict
 
mistercrash's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Guelph, Canada eh!
Posts: 721
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb2004
I have another question... anyone have a picture of something about how much loctite is a good amount of loctite?
If you want to use Loctite on your electric ride, just put a couple drops worth on a plastic lid of some sort and dip the tip of each screw in the Loctite. Then dab the tip of the screw on a dry part of that lid to remove excess Loctite and screw it in place. Dip, dab, screw. Dip, dab, screw. It should be more than enough to secure your screws and you shouldn't have any problems when you have to unscrew them.
__________________
No brain, no headaches.
mistercrash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 11:17 AM   #9
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hayward, CA
Posts: 1,327
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

...use blue color loctite
JoeyE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 11:27 AM   #10
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Send a message via ICQ to rcnewb2004
Default

tamiya blue threadlock is the same stuff as blue loctite?
rcnewb2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 11:59 AM   #11
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: golf course and R/C track
Posts: 887
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb2004
Also, are tamiya "titanium screws" pure titanium?

i mean... if they call them titanium screws because its 10% titanium... 90% combo of cr*p (soft) metals.... it still doesn't make the screw that tough....
All titanium is an alloy made up of many metals, don't worry even the "weakest" titanium alloy is strong enough for R/C use. Although you may still get the odd titanium tierod breaking, the screws are should last for years.

I have some Lundsford Ti fatboy motor screws that have outlasted a few cars, and I'm sure Tamiya's quality is quite good.
jeffb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 03:40 PM   #12
Tech Master
 
Guo Chean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indiana, PA15701
Posts: 1,492
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Guo Chean Send a message via Yahoo to Guo Chean
Default

the best titanium screw i used before is Jwerk titanium screw is 64 grade never stripe since i used it on my pro 4
__________________
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=3][COLOR=red]|HotBodies|HPI|Full Throttle Motorsports|KO PROPO|DSM|Nosram|JACO|MUCH MORE RACING|Schacht Design Works|[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
Guo Chean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 04:03 PM   #13
Tech Elite
 
PitCrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Seattle Indoor Raceway
Posts: 2,129
Default

Pure Titanium weighs .1621 pounds per cubic inch.
Pure Aluminum weighs .0975 pounds per cubic inch.

Titanium is almost twice as heavy
PitCrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 06:41 PM   #14
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 24
Default

Definitely go with titanium, it is an amazing metal. I have a titanium bicycle and it rocks. It is made from 3/2.5 series titanium, which is an indication of the added percentages of aluminium and vandium. this is added to make it stronger/harder. There is also 6/4 Ti. Pure Ti often originates out of eastern europe or China. It is still good, but often a little softer and less strong. If you can afford it, get the ti, you wont regret it. And dont be too concerned about weight, it will be negligible, especially with most modern cars we are adding weight to make standards.
Potential World is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 06:48 PM   #15
Tech Elite
 
PitCrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Seattle Indoor Raceway
Posts: 2,129
Default

For comparison,
Steel weighs .283 pounds per square inch.
Vanadium is .202 lbs/sq inch.
Uranium is .6753
Gold is .6969
And the heavy weight on the list. Iridium at .8096. So a 12" by 12" by 12" block of Iridium weighs in at a whopping 1204 pounds.
PitCrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Titanium Screws NIP |<R1Z |> R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 16 07-28-2006 09:42 AM
Titanium screws Snikkari Electric On-Road 4 02-02-2005 11:07 PM
titanium screws hpipro321 Electric On-Road 10 11-01-2004 03:21 PM
Titanium screws to be available ongbenghui Singapore R/C Racers 5 01-31-2002 06:46 PM
Titanium screws ongbenghui Electric On-Road 18 01-18-2002 12:18 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:43 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net