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Old 10-17-2006, 05:39 PM   #106
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Hi guys,

My norwegian teammate Gunnar had his first test with his SP12X this weekend, but he had some troubles. I have written an E-mail to corally adressing the problem, but I'd thought I should share it here as well. So here goes...

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Hello!

Gunnar put the Sp12X through it's first test this weekend, during the first indoor race of the season.

He had some troubles I'd like to share, first of all with the rear tube. The bearing holders did not get enough support due to the tube in the rear pods being too short, this caused the rear axle to start moving once the plastic picked up some heat from the bearings, and in the end of the run, the bearing holders were melted, and the car impossible to drive fast. Is this a problem you might have encountered before, and have a solution?

Second problem is, the front suspension. It seems to be a week point as the car felt very edgy to drive, and also there were some problems keeping tweak, simply due to the arms bending a bit. I think we might try a different front end, but we'll see. Any good tricks?

Best Regards,

Martin Sørlie
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Old 10-18-2006, 12:38 AM   #107
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sounds like your bearings have alot of rolling resistance (to heat up the plastic (wow)), haven't had that problem in mine, YOU sure that you haven't set different ride heights on each side at the rear, as that can offset the axle/put un-needed pressure on the plastic/bearing
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Old 10-18-2006, 01:32 AM   #108
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Haven't tested the car myself yet, and I have not seen the problem with my own eyes. But it seemed to be that the tube is to short, and doesn't support the plastic holder enough... But then again, every other was the same length...
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Old 10-18-2006, 04:58 AM   #109
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This shouldn't be a problem. The tube that sticks out is shorter than the 12M, but none of the UK guys had any problem with this. I wouldn't expect there to be a lot of heat from the bearings, not enough to melt a plastic holder anyway.

Did it take any big hits to bend the front arms? I had a couple of hits with mine and no problems. The only problem i did have was the grub screws moving during the run. This is something that is fairly easy to sort with a mild thread lock.
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:12 AM   #110
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We have solved most of our problems in Sweden, here are our solutions:

1. Jaco-tires. Drill up the holes to 3.5 mm and fix the edges so the tire will fit perfect (no wobbling). Cut down 3 of the tire-screws so they don’t put any pressure on the diff-washer. This is very important!

2. The bearing holders are also a problem. Since the plastic doesn’t have so much support the rear axle move front and backwards and this can lead to that the spur gear will be damaged. We have not had any issues with the bearings at all.

3. We were at a race last Saturday and they have a very bumpy track. We noticed no difference at all between the SP12X and the Calandra-style front. The most important seems to be the rear part of the car and I think the SP12X is awesome there.
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:17 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattW
This shouldn't be a problem. The tube that sticks out is shorter than the 12M, but none of the UK guys had any problem with this. I wouldn't expect there to be a lot of heat from the bearings, not enough to melt a plastic holder anyway.

Did it take any big hits to bend the front arms? I had a couple of hits with mine and no problems. The only problem i did have was the grub screws moving during the run. This is something that is fairly easy to sort with a mild thread lock.
For the down stops you can also use normal screws. Just put some washers under it to change the droop setting.
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:43 AM   #112
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Hi,

i have been thinking about this 'melting' the rear ride height adjusters and can only think that the rear axle is very tight.

If you are running the Euro car (std corally wheels), then lightly sand the wheel clips on the back axle with some very fine 'wet n dry' sand paper...

You should only allow for a very small amount of sideways movement in the back axle.
The 'non drive' side clip can make the axle run very tight against the bearings thus causing extra friction and hence increase heat build up.


Other than that, any muck or contamination may cause the bearing to seize up and then that would do the same thing.

Note...

If you sand the wheel clip on the 'diff side' this will allow the diff to be run slightly looser without binding on the clip, and may help you too.


Hope this helps.
pete
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Old 10-20-2006, 09:01 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fcn_sweden
We have solved most of our problems in Sweden, here are our solutions:

2. The bearing holders are also a problem. Since the plastic doesn’t have so much support the rear axle move front and backwards and this can lead to that the spur gear will be damaged. We have not had any issues with the bearings at all.
ANY BODY???
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Old 10-29-2006, 12:34 AM   #114
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Default problems with sp12x

bought 12x recently, have all kinds of problems not associated with quality of corally b4, after two runs, fr. axle bent, fr. wheel can only be disassembled by taking the entire axle off, diff can't be tighten too much, otherwise it won't go smoothly, supplied screws for wheelhub is not right, have owned every generations of corally, this one just don't live up to the name. any comments. by the way, i bought 3 sp12x at the same and have been a loyal fan for the car........
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Old 10-29-2006, 01:36 AM   #115
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I'm guessing you have the U.S spec version? i've heard it has some issues with fitting some rear tyres.

The diff is different to the corally spec version. Doesnt look like it would be as smooth. (AND MY GOD ITS SO SMOOOOOTH!!) when the diff is not slipping, I can spin one wheel with my hand and it will spin for about 2 seconds.

Sounds like just bad luck with your front axle, as everything has been peachy with mine.


My 12X is just getting better and better, I have replaced the standard front springs with soft ones, and put a softer t-bar in, and it runs so nice right now
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Old 10-29-2006, 08:31 AM   #116
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Any setups for this car? I couldn't find it on the Corally website.
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Old 10-29-2006, 01:30 PM   #117
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yes the first us wheel 12x's came with alum front axles, they are now being replaced with hardened steel so they will not bend. as for the rear wheels, some guys have been saying certain wheels need the wholes drilled out for the screw otherwise it distorts the wheel.

as for my corally wheel version, the car is just getting better, im slowy getting it faster and dialing in more grip, i just cant believe how well this car drives and how hard you can drive it for a 12th, its awesome.

as for set ups, what are you looking for, pavement or carpet, high traction, low traction?
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Old 10-29-2006, 02:39 PM   #118
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I am currently working on a low traction asphalt setup but would like some pointer. What servo horn are you guys using as the one I am using its not that nice and ultimately I can't use a lot of the setups available for the car. And yes I love the Corally type wheel, so easy to use, and no hassle.
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Old 10-29-2006, 05:09 PM   #119
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120ft x80ft high traction carpet running Mod. just a good starting point would be great. This adjustable front end has me scratching my head as to were to start.
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Old 10-29-2006, 06:04 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subman
120ft x80ft high traction carpet running Mod. just a good starting point would be great. This adjustable front end has me scratching my head as to were to start.
Agree with you fully, I have moved the ball end on the steering knuckle to the most forward position and it sort of smooth out steering. I think next thing I will try will be the lifting the roll centre and see what happen after that
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