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Old 09-30-2006, 10:11 AM   #91
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We thought so too. But the head of the three screws touches the wheel hub, at least on our cars.

And for example, on the Jaco tires there should be space between the hub and the screw because there should be some plastic too.

And of course, the end of the screw needs some work to be done but that doesnt help in our case.
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Old 09-30-2006, 12:20 PM   #92
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Well, i had a look at my car today with some different wheels.

I tried TRC/GRP which i know fit, and they were fine. I also tried some older CRC wheels, they seemed to fit ok. However, you're quite correct Jaco wheels didn't fit on my car. It seems to be that the PCD on the JACO wheels must be slightly different to the others - the holes appear to be closer to the centre of the wheel. The holes were defenetly smaller as well, so that wouldn't help.

Not sure what the best solution is - i guess just opening the holes up a little.
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Old 09-30-2006, 09:28 PM   #93
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I have just tried some Yokomo wheels and they seem to fit to, the screw holes on the yokomos are huge by comparison to the jaco's.

I have drilled out the Jaco holes to 3mm and didnt help much. I'll try 3.5mm that might be enough to make them fit.

Tony
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Old 09-30-2006, 11:05 PM   #94
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I had the first run outdoors with my 12X today, asphalt, went damn good for the first run! Experimented with tyres, Corally Gold rears seemed to make the rear end kick out and make me spin sometimes. Then tried Corally Pink rears, and the difference was amazing, could put the power down when needed, and the car would be stable as! The rolling resistance has decreased a hell of alot compared to my sp12M, and alot lighter and now i'm getting more run time

And the diff is just awesome! just got smoother and smoother the more I ran it

very impressed so far
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Old 10-01-2006, 05:13 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivingpro
I had the first run outdoors with my 12X today, asphalt, went damn good for the first run! Experimented with tyres, Corally Gold rears seemed to make the rear end kick out and make me spin sometimes. Then tried Corally Pink rears, and the difference was amazing, could put the power down when needed, and the car would be stable as! The rolling resistance has decreased a hell of alot compared to my sp12M, and alot lighter and now i'm getting more run time

And the diff is just awesome! just got smoother and smoother the more I ran it

very impressed so far

I agree with you, the car is amazing, out of the box it was awesome, cant wait to actually get comfortable with it and get a more stable set up, purple fronts and pink rears is all I ran, and it definately worked good to put the power down with no problems. After not running 12th for about 2 years, then getting this and running with the fast guys in out state series, Im very impressed and cant wait to hit the track again
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:16 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by jpeck
I bet you guys are driving poor ole Beardmore crazy.

Na--- I already have mine - got it from Rob Michaels "hand delivered" at the IIC in Vegas... was told it was the 1st retail unit sale in the country from Corally USA....
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Old 10-04-2006, 12:55 AM   #97
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Finally got my Sp12x Anyone know of any onlineshops who has complete part stock for this car?

My LHS does not have any parts yet, and would like to order a couple of things.
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Old 10-04-2006, 04:25 AM   #98
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Also, since I'm new to running 12th scale I'm not sure what parts I should have in my pit box.

Can someone list the must/should have spareparts?

Thanks again!
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Old 10-04-2006, 10:56 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teo
Finally got my Sp12x Anyone know of any onlineshops who has complete part stock for this car?

My LHS does not have any parts yet, and would like to order a couple of things.
Well, since the car is so new not many shops will have the parts online yet.

It will take a bit of time, but Superior Hobbies will probably have them online soon.

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Old 10-05-2006, 07:33 AM   #100
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Where can I pick up a U.S. Spec 12x?
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:43 PM   #101
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My kit did not come with any setup sheets, does anybody have a base setup?

F.ex. What tire diameteres should I run? (I'm thinking 43/48mm)
How about the screws on the t-bar, are those to limit the sideways/rotational movement of the rear-pod?
On the front suspension I see both upstop and downstop screws, are upstop used aswell?
Do I set droop/downstop on the rear-pod? If so do I use the damper du adjust it?
Other crucial/important settings?

I've been running 1/10 for some years but are very new to 1/12th scale so I hope anyone can enlighten me a bit

Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2006, 04:57 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teo
My kit did not come with any setup sheets, does anybody have a base setup?

F.ex. What tire diameteres should I run? (I'm thinking 43/48mm)
How about the screws on the t-bar, are those to limit the sideways/rotational movement of the rear-pod?
Thanks!
I run 43/48mm front/rear tyres so that is a good point to go for (if you can bear the fact of truing down to that)..

I screw the tbar screws so that they are 'only just' touching (if not the thickness of a cigarette paper off the chassis).

They helpt o set the cars repsonse at changing directions.
-screw them down hard and the car will be like a dart through the chicanes but will be really twitchy.
- leave them out and the car may lift an inside wheel and may feel ok, but will be more 'lethargic' through the twisties....

------
One thing to note is that the tube dampers may need modifying slighly to allow the air to escape when you put in some syrup.

The screws may need chopping which will itself allow the tube dampers to travel further over.

you can alter how well damped the car performs with the T-bar setup by using thicker/thinner syrup to suit your driving style.

-----
Another key point of advice is that I think the length of the centre shock is key to how the car performs and feels.

Have it too long - and give the car lots or rear travel and the car will dive into corners more.. too short and it wont turn in at all,
A longer shock helps over bumps ... A short shock may see the car bottoming out a lot too.

I hope this helps some what. As i havent yet found the 'sweetspot' balance for myself to give you any accurate measrements to start from.

pete
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Old 10-14-2006, 06:08 AM   #103
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What size holes are you guys drilling in your Jaco rears to get them to fit on the sp12x? Thanks
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:54 PM   #104
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I had a good look at mine last night with the Jaco's and it appears the screws are too long when tightend in all the way, they make it look like the wheel is untrue, if you give the screws half a turn out each, they seem to fix themselves. When I had a good look it looks like they are hitting the plate in the diff and deforming the whole centre of the jaco. It looks to me like they are just thiner in the centre and allow the screw to screw in further in the hub.
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Last edited by THE ROCK; 10-16-2006 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 10-16-2006, 04:52 AM   #105
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Jeff Brown ygpm Question for ya
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