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Old 10-26-2008, 06:46 PM   #541
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Anyone know if there's a less expensive alternative to the stock 2mm t-bar? I've snapped two in the past two weeks. During the A main no less. At 24 bucks a pop for the new style t bar, it's quite expensive. I'd rather use that money to buy tires.
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Old 10-26-2008, 06:56 PM   #542
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what pinion do i need to run to get the right gearing for a CO27 on a 98 spur? Just got the 12x and getting it ready to run for our next race
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:17 PM   #543
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or what gearing would someone recommend for me using for a CO27?
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:24 PM   #544
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Originally Posted by tellan View Post
Just purchased a Corally SP12X with Associated front end.
It is built as per kit,front springs weight ??????. Fitted the RS front blocks so smaller tyres can be used.
Every thing else is as per kit, tpiece thick ,Any adjustments mods i should be doing.Set ups etc
Plan to run brushless,10.5 on carpet.
Any help appreciated
Pages 14 and 16 of this thread have setup info for med to hi bite carpet, if you haven't found it already. With 10.5 you may want to try higher bite front tires like Jaco double pinks or magentas because of higher corner speeds.
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:35 PM   #545
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Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague View Post
Anyone know if there's a less expensive alternative to the stock 2mm t-bar? I've snapped two in the past two weeks. During the A main no less. At 24 bucks a pop for the new style t bar, it's quite expensive. I'd rather use that money to buy tires.
Yikes! When we switched to this car a year ago the advice to us was to NOT run the center screw in the Tbar, and cut the spacer under the Tbar to just have small spacers under the outer mounting holes. This was in line with what we had run years ago with our last 1/12 T-bar car, and so that's what we did. Check through this thread and you may find the discussion.

We have not broken a T-bar in the year, despite some extremely hard hits due to radio problems that broke the chassis, front bumper, center shock, etc.

Leaving out the center screw results in softer fore and aft springing, which is good for forward bite when needed. If not needed, just use stiffer center shock springs to tune to your liking.
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:46 PM   #546
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Originally Posted by ChadRacing View Post
what pinion do i need to run to get the right gearing for a CO27 on a 98 spur? Just got the 12x and getting it ready to run for our next race
The pinion size will vary with tire size and track size. If you are carpet racing on a med. size track (say, 36x75 or thereabouts), you want to start gearing around 1.85" (47mm) rollout. If you are not familiar with rollout, the 1/12 scale thread on rctech has a very thorough discussion...it's just too lengthy to try to duplicate here. Just use the search function for rollout formula.
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:01 PM   #547
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ok thanks the track we are running on if new crc carpet and its 80x30
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:06 PM   #548
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Originally Posted by ChadRacing View Post
ok thanks the track we are running on if new crc carpet and its 80x30
I looked at the track online and I would try a 98/30. If your tires are close to 1.75in. You will love the 12x just make sure you run the 2.0 t-plate and move the center shock by 6mm on the top plate. I will be down in two weeks if you need anything just ask!!!!
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Last edited by Budman; 10-26-2008 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:05 PM   #549
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Originally Posted by Larry Brown View Post
Yikes! When we switched to this car a year ago the advice to us was to NOT run the center screw in the Tbar, and cut the spacer under the Tbar to just have small spacers under the outer mounting holes. This was in line with what we had run years ago with our last 1/12 T-bar car, and so that's what we did. Check through this thread and you may find the discussion.

We have not broken a T-bar in the year, despite some extremely hard hits due to radio problems that broke the chassis, front bumper, center shock, etc.

Leaving out the center screw results in softer fore and aft springing, which is good for forward bite when needed. If not needed, just use stiffer center shock springs to tune to your liking.
I've been running without the center screw, but with a solid spacer. Gonna try the 2 piece spacer next week. Damn thing is still broke gotta fix it tonight. Would I be correct in thinking the added flex will distribute the forces on the T bar more evenly, reducing the chance of breakage?
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:46 PM   #550
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Originally Posted by Budman View Post
I looked at the track online and I would try a 98/30. If your tires are close to 1.75in. You will love the 12x just make sure you run the 2.0 t-plate and move the center shock by 6mm on the top plate. I will be down in two weeks if you need anything just ask!!!!

what do you mean by moving the center shock by 6mm on the top plate? i will be running it the first time this weds at practice. so far i like how it is designed
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Old 10-27-2008, 05:09 PM   #551
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Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague View Post
I've been running without the center screw, but with a solid spacer. Gonna try the 2 piece spacer next week. Damn thing is still broke gotta fix it tonight. Would I be correct in thinking the added flex will distribute the forces on the T bar more evenly, reducing the chance of breakage?
Really not sure, to tell you the truth. Maybe just allowing more flex in the fore and aft direction keeps the stresses lower. When Jeff (my son, the driver) hit the wall wide open due to radio problems, the center shock broke but the Tbar did not.
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Old 10-27-2008, 05:18 PM   #552
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Originally Posted by ChadRacing View Post
what do you mean by moving the center shock by 6mm on the top plate? i will be running it the first time this weds at practice. so far i like how it is designed
This is from page 14 of this thread. The 6mm movement is explained in the center shock section, but is not something that is necessary to start with. It was done to help with high speed steering:

Snowbirds update- There were 5 12x cars in the 27T main, 2 in 19T and 3 in modified. all with different drivers. So 10 out of 30 spots in the 1/12 scale mains were Corally SP12x cars, driven by 10 different racers.

Jeff Brown's setup (TQ 27T):

Tires: Jaco lilac front, 1.60 " and yellow rear, 1.71", full front and 1/2 rear tire sidewalls glued with CA
Front suspension: Corally WC (same as Assoc. dynamic strut) with 10 degree reactive caster blocks, 2 spacers rear and 1 front, 1 1/4 degree camber, raised steering arm ballstuds, threaded axles from Parma
Front springs: .020
Servo mounting: flat, rear mount (ballstuds for steering arms facing forward)
Front width: 165 mm at top of tires
Toe in/out: 0 degrees
T-bar: Corally 2mm, with center screw on rear pod removed and spacer cut to only have spacers under 2 pod mounting holes, no spacer under front pivot ball
Center shock: IRS VCS shock, front mount raised 1.5 mm and rear mount moved back 6 mm, 25 wt Assoc. shock oil, olive center spring
Ride height: 3.5 mm, chassis level when race ready
Rear pod droop: this is checked by lifting center shock rear mount and measuring height at rear of main chassis. Difference between static ride height and lifted height was 1 mm
Rear width: 171 mm
Chassis: stock kit chassis
Speed control: Novak GTX
Batteries: Team Kwik Ener-G 4600 NiMH (Note: the SAME pack of batteries was used twice in practice, in all 4 qualifiers, practice the morning of the main, and in the main)
Motor: handout CO 27T tuned by Team Kwik

The carpet was high bite, and very smooth. Bumps were not an issue.


There is an update to this setup on page 16 of this thread, but this setup worked just fine.
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Old 10-27-2008, 09:05 PM   #553
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Originally Posted by Larry Brown View Post
Really not sure, to tell you the truth. Maybe just allowing more flex in the fore and aft direction keeps the stresses lower. When Jeff (my son, the driver) hit the wall wide open due to radio problems, the center shock broke but the Tbar did not.
Well, if it can take a hit at WFO throttle, I guess it will help. I did speak to Specialized RC (Corally USA) and they recommended exactly what you told me to do. I even asked if they considered making t bars here in the states, selling them under the Specialized brand. They would be somewhat less expensive if made here, since the euro is killing the dollar. Turns out they are kicking the idea around.
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Old 10-29-2008, 04:09 PM   #554
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Originally Posted by MartinSorlie View Post
Haven't tested the car myself yet, and I have not seen the problem with my own eyes. But it seemed to be that the tube is to short, and doesn't support the plastic holder enough... But then again, every other was the same length...
I know this an old post, but I had a problem with a plastic holder getting knocked loose in a crash earlier this year. The tube is the same width as previous Corally cars. What Corally did was to place the pod plates further apart and use a longer axle to widen the car. The end result is less of the tube sticking out to support the holder. I just picked up the Specialized RC alloy rear holders. They are great! Better tolerances, no more stretching of the holders and not a chance of punching the bearing thru.
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Old 12-09-2008, 02:50 AM   #555
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Is this car dead? What is happeng to the great corally of 12th era?
Nothing new since 2006....nothing to show at the ifmar 2008....no new development....or am i missing out something?

** I still love my SP12X even thought i own newer 1/12th models!
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