Yeah that doesn’t work either. The motor doesn’t move forward enough for a proper gear mesh.

Really?
I don't have any issues with building the shocks without rebound.
IMO they are super easy to build compared to shocks a few years ago.

Like I and some others mentioned you could try the Schumacher MI9 membranes, they are a direct fit and a lot more flexible than the original and revised mugen ones, that should help.

This is how i build mine: (Shock shaft length 7.5mm like in the manual)
1. Fill shocks up until the groove starts where the membrane sits. A bit more is okay, less i wouldn't recommend (Piston in the lowest position)
2. Lay the membrane into the oil bed, either from above or slide it into position from the side.
3. Massage the membrane with a 2.5mm ball hex into the intended groove. Pushing only in the middle part of the membrane.
4. Continue to massage the middle of the membrane while pushing the shock body down, or the shock shaft up until i feel the shock shaft with the hex driver.
5. Now, maybe max. 0.5 mm of the shock shaft should be visible
6. Remove excess oil on the upper edge of the shockbody or ontop of the membrane carefully with a microfibre towel.
7. Close the shock with the shock cap.

I've built my shock now ~30 times and only had 2 times air inside or more than 1 mm rebound.

Which motor are you using?
I had similar issues when running a 5.0 gear ration (90t spur / 34t pinion) on some motors.

On Hobbywing motors it is not a issue, but for example with an ORCA Motor the screwhead, which holds the Motor-Can together, intefered with the motor mount near the upper motor mount screw.
On another motor the chamfer on the motor case was too small and interfered with the chamfer on the motor mount.
In both situation i used a dremel and removed material from the motor-case / screwhead to make it fit.

On the original motor mount the largest I could fit was 90 spur (even when raised to highest position). Am I missing something or need the new motor mount?

What was preventing it? The manual says a 96 fits.

I'm using a Hobbywing 5.5. I'll take a look and see if there's any interference from the motor can. Thanks for the feedback.

Hey guys,
Got a 3D printer for Christmas and having a little fun with it. I created a set of body mount spacers in various thickness for the MTC3 (3.0, 2.5, 2.0, 1.5 and 1.0). Here's the file for those of you who want to try it. Feel free to modify them as needed as long as you share it after. They're not perfect, but work fine with my twister bodies.

Martin Paradis

Anyone know when kits and parts will be available?

any day now. They are either on a boat or waiting to go through customs.

MTC3's be like..
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8242a02fab.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...59b6c6694.jpeg
Hello any idea what the shims are for?

These are probably the O-Rings that hold the pin in place, that drives the hex, not shims.

They're crush spacers for the bearing races - put them on the axle then the hex then the wheel.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...52dd298f06.png
Ahh, you are right. Sorry, my fault.
I only looked up the manual and saw a different part number, thats why i thought it must be the o-rings then.
After you mentioned it, when i looked up A2251 in different shops no part appears.

Still feels weird that you can't buy the crush spacers separate and are only bundled with the hexes, despite their own partnumber. Makes no sense to me :lol:

Yes, that's a real pain. We also lost one of the spacers and are forced to buy the hexes. I then used several thin shims instead of the 1.1mm spacer. Works very well too.But it's impossible without the spacer. When you then mount the wheels and tighten the Wheel nuts, the bearings bind.