Tub Cyclone `S`
03-26-2008, 06:11 AM
#706
ERIC7 - On point #3, I have found that parts are relative easy to get. It's very much like the TA05 in that respect. A lot of the hooby shops in my area don't carry Tamiya parts in stock, but they can be easily ordered. With Hot Bodies it's similar. Although, since the Cyclone and Cyclone "S" share parts with the HPI Pro 4 hbbby shops do carry certain parts. I have also ordered parts on the net from different sources. I have one part on back order for the Cyclone S. That's the out drives for the diff. I may have to check the internet. I hope this helps. I have a TA05 and I like both cars. They both have their good points and bad points.
03-26-2008, 07:45 PM
#707
Tech Initiate
Thanks MD. What would you say the good points and bad points of the cyclone S are? Over the last 19 years I've built over 200 rc cars/trucks/boats/tanks and I've yet to find one that didn't have it's share of bad points or things to improve on. Tis the nature of the beast I guess. LOL I must say that out of the box I was very pleased with the TA05. Then again, I just hit some parking lots and don't have any tracks around here. My needs differ slightly from the norm. Just comparing it to other tourers I've had it felt like it was on rails right out of the box. It made a suprisingly good "play" car. I feared the belt drive would be easily fouled but 50 full IB4200 runs later, my belts and pulleys looked like new. Some of those lots had quite a bit of small debris but it somehow never got hung up. I became a big believer in those slots under the pulleys and letting stuff pass through. The drivetrain was very free and the car was whisper quiet. It was inpressive for the price. I had bought the precision diff joints because I got overly agressive the first time I adjusted them and warped the crap out of the stock ones, that was my bad. I could have used front universals, but other than that it was good to go for my needs.
I just thought I'd like to try something different as I've built about every tamiya chassis known to man except for the really high end exotic tourers. The few HPI kits I've built in years past I was really happy with the way they built. Thought the cyclone S might be similar? If i find out the hpi body dimples line up with it's post that will be a big selling point for me. Most people wouldn't care. I can build kits with my eyes closed, but I'm the worst body man/painter who ever lived. 200+ rc's later and I'm still the master of the one color paint job, LOL
I'm too old to care now....
Question #1 still up for bids. I'm gonna assume that the HPI bodies dimples are a direct line up for the cyclone since those 2 companies are one and the same (they are aren't they?), but if someone can confirm/deny that it would be great.
-eric
I just thought I'd like to try something different as I've built about every tamiya chassis known to man except for the really high end exotic tourers. The few HPI kits I've built in years past I was really happy with the way they built. Thought the cyclone S might be similar? If i find out the hpi body dimples line up with it's post that will be a big selling point for me. Most people wouldn't care. I can build kits with my eyes closed, but I'm the worst body man/painter who ever lived. 200+ rc's later and I'm still the master of the one color paint job, LOL
I'm too old to care now.... Question #1 still up for bids. I'm gonna assume that the HPI bodies dimples are a direct line up for the cyclone since those 2 companies are one and the same (they are aren't they?), but if someone can confirm/deny that it would be great.
-eric
03-26-2008, 08:44 PM
#708
setting help
What would you suggest I do? I run a mainly stock Cyclone S, with a front and center 1 way, everytime i left the throttle, the rear gets loose.
03-26-2008, 09:02 PM
#710
tires
it happens on almost all tires with fuller inserts. eg sorex type C. When the tire has some air gap, the problem is not so pronounced.
I am not refering to braking with a 2x oneway. but if you lift off the throttle and turn, the rear tends to want to swing around. On-power, the car is well behaved. I suspect my droop settings too, now running 5F 5R. You can't lower the car too much on this track bcos of "bumps" in the road
Cheers
I am not refering to braking with a 2x oneway. but if you lift off the throttle and turn, the rear tends to want to swing around. On-power, the car is well behaved. I suspect my droop settings too, now running 5F 5R. You can't lower the car too much on this track bcos of "bumps" in the road
Cheers
03-26-2008, 09:05 PM
#711
eric7 - HPI and Hot Bodies arer the same company.
When I got my TA05, it was good, but it took some time for me to get it the point where I really like it. I have added several hop ups and in the GT3 TCS class it runs pretty well. Not as good as the top guys. It's a little heavier than the Cyclone "S" I think. I have never checked the weight with a scale. however. The TA05 is harder to work on when it comes to the diff area, and with the center motor mount on the TA05 placement of the ESC is easier on the Cyclone "S." Weaknesses of the Cyclone "S" for are the steering knuckles and steering turnbuckles. The knuckles which are Pro knuckles and can break with a hit at the wrong angle and the steering turnbuckles are little small in diameter and can pull out. Of course, if I drove better these would not be a problem. The car responded well to sway bars and spring adjustments. I am in the process of trying to return mine to box stock so can run it in that class in the HPI Challenge series. If you buy one you might want to leave off the rear bunper. It sits up high and when it breaks it can chip the chassis. I bougth mine used and it came that way.
One of the r/c magazines about a year or year and half ago ran a test comparing the Cyclone "S" and T2R. The Cyclone "S" was slightly better.
I am not a very good painter either. I am beginning to use more interior decals.
When I got my TA05, it was good, but it took some time for me to get it the point where I really like it. I have added several hop ups and in the GT3 TCS class it runs pretty well. Not as good as the top guys. It's a little heavier than the Cyclone "S" I think. I have never checked the weight with a scale. however. The TA05 is harder to work on when it comes to the diff area, and with the center motor mount on the TA05 placement of the ESC is easier on the Cyclone "S." Weaknesses of the Cyclone "S" for are the steering knuckles and steering turnbuckles. The knuckles which are Pro knuckles and can break with a hit at the wrong angle and the steering turnbuckles are little small in diameter and can pull out. Of course, if I drove better these would not be a problem. The car responded well to sway bars and spring adjustments. I am in the process of trying to return mine to box stock so can run it in that class in the HPI Challenge series. If you buy one you might want to leave off the rear bunper. It sits up high and when it breaks it can chip the chassis. I bougth mine used and it came that way.
One of the r/c magazines about a year or year and half ago ran a test comparing the Cyclone "S" and T2R. The Cyclone "S" was slightly better.
I am not a very good painter either. I am beginning to use more interior decals.
03-26-2008, 09:12 PM
#712
Ive been running the cyclone S competitively for over a year now in stock. The changes I made were HB pro shocks, HB front spool v2 with steel dogbones, 3 racing rear diffs, HB sway bars, excel low friction belts front and rear, 3 racing steering, 3 racing belt tensioner, 3 racing aluminium uni's in rear, 3 racing motor mounts and middle heatsink and aluminium hub carriers. The car is super reliable and quick and with the intro of lipo batteries you cant go wrong with a tub chassis.
If you need any advice PM me I'll be more than happy to help as Ive run this car for a while and plan on doing so for a lot longer.
Thanks
Adrian
If you need any advice PM me I'll be more than happy to help as Ive run this car for a while and plan on doing so for a lot longer.
Thanks
Adrian
03-27-2008, 03:18 AM
#713
it happens on almost all tires with fuller inserts. eg sorex type C. When the tire has some air gap, the problem is not so pronounced.
I am not refering to braking with a 2x oneway. but if you lift off the throttle and turn, the rear tends to want to swing around. On-power, the car is well behaved. I suspect my droop settings too, now running 5F 5R. You can't lower the car too much on this track bcos of "bumps" in the road
Cheers
I am not refering to braking with a 2x oneway. but if you lift off the throttle and turn, the rear tends to want to swing around. On-power, the car is well behaved. I suspect my droop settings too, now running 5F 5R. You can't lower the car too much on this track bcos of "bumps" in the road
Cheers
Push down the car to the table on the shock mount and then release it straight away. This will leave the car sitting on the table in the neutral position.
Now lift the shock tower till the wheels lift off the ground. You should be able to lift the shock tower about 3 mm before the wheels lift off the ground. If the tyres lift straight off the table then you have no droop and this is bad. As your problem is off power you should check the rear of the car first.
Note that one of the issues with the stock cyclone S shocks is that they can bind at the bottom of the shock. If you havent checked make sure that the shock pistons move smoothly (youll need to remove the shocks and spring to check this). If they are binding you may need to get a drill bit (i think 2mm but check what is suitable when you do it) and hollow out the hole in the bottom of the shock where the shaft goes through.
You may also want to put a touch more ride height on the rear. Most people run .5mm higher on the rear.
03-27-2008, 11:58 PM
#714
Tech Initiate
eric7 - HPI and Hot Bodies arer the same company.
When I got my TA05, it was good, but it took some time for me to get it the point where I really like it. I have added several hop ups and in the GT3 TCS class it runs pretty well. Not as good as the top guys. It's a little heavier than the Cyclone "S" I think. I have never checked the weight with a scale. however. The TA05 is harder to work on when it comes to the diff area, and with the center motor mount on the TA05 placement of the ESC is easier on the Cyclone "S." Weaknesses of the Cyclone "S" for are the steering knuckles and steering turnbuckles. The knuckles which are Pro knuckles and can break with a hit at the wrong angle and the steering turnbuckles are little small in diameter and can pull out. Of course, if I drove better these would not be a problem. The car responded well to sway bars and spring adjustments. I am in the process of trying to return mine to box stock so can run it in that class in the HPI Challenge series. If you buy one you might want to leave off the rear bunper. It sits up high and when it breaks it can chip the chassis. I bougth mine used and it came that way.
One of the r/c magazines about a year or year and half ago ran a test comparing the Cyclone "S" and T2R. The Cyclone "S" was slightly better.
I am not a very good painter either. I am beginning to use more interior decals.
When I got my TA05, it was good, but it took some time for me to get it the point where I really like it. I have added several hop ups and in the GT3 TCS class it runs pretty well. Not as good as the top guys. It's a little heavier than the Cyclone "S" I think. I have never checked the weight with a scale. however. The TA05 is harder to work on when it comes to the diff area, and with the center motor mount on the TA05 placement of the ESC is easier on the Cyclone "S." Weaknesses of the Cyclone "S" for are the steering knuckles and steering turnbuckles. The knuckles which are Pro knuckles and can break with a hit at the wrong angle and the steering turnbuckles are little small in diameter and can pull out. Of course, if I drove better these would not be a problem. The car responded well to sway bars and spring adjustments. I am in the process of trying to return mine to box stock so can run it in that class in the HPI Challenge series. If you buy one you might want to leave off the rear bunper. It sits up high and when it breaks it can chip the chassis. I bougth mine used and it came that way.
One of the r/c magazines about a year or year and half ago ran a test comparing the Cyclone "S" and T2R. The Cyclone "S" was slightly better.
I am not a very good painter either. I am beginning to use more interior decals.
03-28-2008, 03:51 PM
#715
I'd suggest purchase pro shocks asap and the aluminium purple shock end balls, 2 hole pistons and 35 much more shock oil all round. Run 4mm droop all round and 6mm ride height all round.
Best positioning I found is the third hole out top front and outer hole bottom front (if you want more steering then lean the shocks out one at the top front) and use all the middle holes at the rear. HPI pink springs in the front (the black springs with the pink paint on them, not the full on pink springs) and the silver kit shocks that come with the cyclone S on the back. If running sway bars, HB ones (dont use 3 racing sway bars they suck) Run silver sway bar in the front and copper in the back.
Another thing is try to steer clear of the 3 racing shocks. If you have bought 3 racing shocks, Id suggest using genuine HPI or Tamiya TRF bladders (12x3.5mm) The tamiya ones are cheaper thats why I use em, its stops them from leaking as well.
Hope this helps you guys.
Cheers
Adrian
Best positioning I found is the third hole out top front and outer hole bottom front (if you want more steering then lean the shocks out one at the top front) and use all the middle holes at the rear. HPI pink springs in the front (the black springs with the pink paint on them, not the full on pink springs) and the silver kit shocks that come with the cyclone S on the back. If running sway bars, HB ones (dont use 3 racing sway bars they suck) Run silver sway bar in the front and copper in the back.
Another thing is try to steer clear of the 3 racing shocks. If you have bought 3 racing shocks, Id suggest using genuine HPI or Tamiya TRF bladders (12x3.5mm) The tamiya ones are cheaper thats why I use em, its stops them from leaking as well.
Hope this helps you guys.
Cheers
Adrian
03-28-2008, 07:37 PM
#716
I never built up the standard shocks, but ive been told they are pretty good for plastic shocks, as long as you check the shock shafts do not bind in the bottom of the shock body.
But if you can afford new shocks it is probably the way to go.
Personally i would replace the decks first, if you are on a budget go for the 3 racing decks.
It has the added advantage of drastically reducing the weight of the car. However, if you upgrade the decks i would suggest ditching stick packs if you use them.
But if you can afford new shocks it is probably the way to go.
Personally i would replace the decks first, if you are on a budget go for the 3 racing decks.
It has the added advantage of drastically reducing the weight of the car. However, if you upgrade the decks i would suggest ditching stick packs if you use them.
03-29-2008, 10:53 PM
#718
Tech Initiate
I know nobody was losing any sleep over my decision LOL, but I thought I'd let you know I have decided to go ahead and order a Cyclone S kit. Appreciate the help everyone! : )
Out of curiosity, how well will those kit included slicks work for cruising around in my unprepped parking lots?
Out of curiosity, how well will those kit included slicks work for cruising around in my unprepped parking lots?
03-30-2008, 03:38 AM
#720
The slicks are good but very soft. They will tear up really quickly especially if its a rough parking lot asphalt, and especially more so the bigger the motor which goes in.
If you are not racing then go with a hard tyre as vazzo mentioned. Proper racing tyres are more expensive but have infinitely more grip and wear better.
In my opinion resist the urge to buy cheaper tyres even just for bashing.
Sorex's are a good brand. With rims proline rims make some which are pretty soft and impossible to crack, you should steer well clear of sorex rims they are hard and brittle.
Also if you are buying from a small hobby shop if you buy sorex tyres make sure they are the new ones. You can tell as there is a coloured slip of paper which comes in the package. If the paper only has japanese writing on it (no english) then they are the older batch of tyres which arent as good.
If you are not racing then go with a hard tyre as vazzo mentioned. Proper racing tyres are more expensive but have infinitely more grip and wear better.
In my opinion resist the urge to buy cheaper tyres even just for bashing.
Sorex's are a good brand. With rims proline rims make some which are pretty soft and impossible to crack, you should steer well clear of sorex rims they are hard and brittle.
Also if you are buying from a small hobby shop if you buy sorex tyres make sure they are the new ones. You can tell as there is a coloured slip of paper which comes in the package. If the paper only has japanese writing on it (no english) then they are the older batch of tyres which arent as good.