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Old 04-29-2006, 10:22 AM   #1
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Default "Pro" Version of CO27 Not Really "Pro"?

I just got two CO27 stock motors in, both the "Pro" version.

Both motors had their dyno stickers, the "Pro" packaging, etc., but one of the motors' brushes wasn't even soldered to the tab. In fact, there was ZERO solder on the tab or the brush.

So I'm just curious as to where my motor's dyno sticker came from.

Interesting.
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:29 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
I just got two CO27 stock motors in, both the "Pro" version.

Both motors had their dyno stickers, the "Pro" packaging, etc., but one of the motors' brushes wasn't even soldered to the tab. In fact, there was ZERO solder on the tab or the brush.

So I'm just curious as to where my motor's dyno sticker came from.

Interesting.
what brushes and springs do you have on it? If you have the black springs on it and a full non serrated brush its not the pro version
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:30 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
I just got two CO27 stock motors in, both the "Pro" version.

Both motors had their dyno stickers, the "Pro" packaging, etc., but one of the motors' brushes wasn't even soldered to the tab. In fact, there was ZERO solder on the tab or the brush.

So I'm just curious as to where my motor's dyno sticker came from.

Interesting.
theres many possibilities here, first the motor could have got unsoldered in a fall at the factory after the dyno, and remeber the factory does not put alot of solder onto these motors. second your motor could have come unsoldered in the intense heat of the dyno.... there many ways this could have happened but its nothing big
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:44 AM   #4
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I am not suprised at his comment. I opened one of the "PRO" versions and decided to see if it was really "trued" at the factory....LOL There is no way it was trued, maybe run in a few minutes and maybe on a dyno but that's it there is isn't any tuning to it. I picked mine up since a local shop had some but from now on the only ones I will use are from motor builders I trust. (EA,Xpress,Brood,etc)
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpipro321
theres many possibilities here, first the motor could have got unsoldered in a fall at the factory after the dyno, and remeber the factory does not put alot of solder onto these motors. second your motor could have come unsoldered in the intense heat of the dyno.... there many ways this could have happened but its nothing big
Read below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
In fact, there was ZERO solder on the tab or the brush.
There is no way solder has EVER touched that brush OR the tab. Absolutely impossible. They are both brand-spanking new; clean as a whistle. They have never been soldered.

Which again begs the question: how was it dyno'ed?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
what brushes and springs do you have on it? If you have the black springs on it and a full non serrated brush its not the pro version
It has the pro springs and brushes. I'm sure it started out as the Pro version, but it sure didn't end up that way. If nothing else, in my opinion, it very much calls into question the integrity of their dyno process. This motor was not run-in. I'd very much like to know where the dyno sticker came from...
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:52 AM   #6
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A motor will run even if the brushes are not soldered on. The current will be carried through the hood and the spring.

So, they could get a dyno run, but it wouldn't be a particularly good one.
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge
A motor will run even if the brushes are not soldered on. The current will be carried through the hood and the spring.

So, they could get a dyno run, but it wouldn't be a particularly good one.
Ahhh..... that makes perfect sense.

Well, at least it's not a fake dyno... just shoddy worksmanship.
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
Ahhh..... that makes perfect sense.

Well, at least it's not a fake dyno... just shoddy worksmanship.
well the last batch of motors that I got almost all the stickers from their dyno were almost the same some were identical
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
Ahhh..... that makes perfect sense.

Well, at least it's not a fake dyno... just shoddy worksmanship.
Precisely, & as far as how the dyno connects to the motor, all of them except for the Robitronics uses alligator clips anyway(no solder involved, only Robi uses test leads that need to be soldered & they're the only ones that reccomend that anyway, they feel it's best since that's how we connect our motors to the ESC). And I agree that it's much more likely to see a poorly done motor come through from the biggest manufacturers(like Trinity, Reedy, Orion, etc.), because they don't have time to give the knd of individual attention to every motor, like we can get from smaller companies, such as team Brood, DC, eXpress, EA, etc.. Also, the big companies do not weed out the bad ones like smaller companies do, they just put their preferred setup on it , test it, & ship it, rather than take the time to make sure the motor performs as expected, & if it doesn't relegate it to lesser status....
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:08 AM   #10
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i was at a hobby shop once and two pro motors had the exact same dyno numbers.
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:09 AM   #11
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My advice.
Buy from a motor tuner.
OR
Don't buy the "Pro" version, buy the cheaper version and put on your own brushes and springs, turn the comm, and align the brush hoods.
OR
Buy from a motor tuner...
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:14 AM   #12
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Well, I'll keep these motors because I got them as part of a huge order that qualified me for a great discount at Tower (basically got one for free).

But, these are the last motors that I'll be getting directly from the manufacturer. The nice thing about some of the tuners that I've noticed is that you can request a setup for a specific application.

That's cool.
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:38 AM   #13
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Yup,

Team Br00d will tune and tweak a motor to your application.
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:53 AM   #14
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Too Funny


I`v seen how these motor tuner`s tune ...
They only use a "cheet sheet" with instructions to assemble the motor`s & thats about all...

More betta to buy & tune the motor yourself for the best performance...
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Old 04-29-2006, 12:12 PM   #15
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I know a guy that puts the shunt of the brush under the spring tab on top of the hood, no solder involved there, seems to work just fine. Only thing I could see that would be different is that the spring tension would be a little higher becase the shut holds it out a little bit.
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