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Old 02-03-2003, 01:21 AM   #121
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

JOHN S.

Whilst I have not been writing much I have been reading you all along.

We had another good day yesterday. Son Josh made it 8 out of 8 in the Mod class and now leads the championship with a healthy margin as we go past the half way stage. On a tight and technical track he actually lapped the second placed TC3 yesterday. And I won in stock which made it a very good day for JOHN BULL RACING.

Interesting to see that you too are using the same springs front and rear. We have that set up on Josh's TC3 and on my MR4 and it seems to work OK.

MOTOR BRUSHES.

I have done quite a bit of experimenting recently in this field. We are now using Orion bullet silver brushes and find they give very good results. Their new Sprint compound 4/6 remains consistant much longer than the previous 2/6 Sprint. In fact I now run Josh's motors for 2 five minute races between brush changes and skimming, and in stock, even with the sort of gearing we are using I can still get at least 4 runs before the brushes start to blue.

However I must admit I haven't tried the Trinity brushes, but intend to do so.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 02-03-2003, 05:04 AM   #122
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Default Brush Tension Gauge

Here is a pic of my homemade Brush Spring Tension gauge.
Note that Niftech makes a couple different models of tension gauges.

Fakk2. I sent you an e-mail. Thanks for the offer. I'll take you up on it. It would be nice to be able to do without the stinky unhealthy traction compound.

Northener-Thanks for the tire warmer report. One guy at our track uses them, but he has had to add traction compound as well. I'll give them a try without.

I see that trinity has some deluxe tire warmers with adjustable heat range and digital temperature readout.

Joe- Thanks for the brush report. The Orion brush seems to be working similar to the 767 brush from your description. Two good runs.
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File Type: jpg brush spring tension gauge.jpg (91.5 KB, 641 views)

Last edited by John Stranahan; 02-03-2003 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 02-03-2003, 06:03 AM   #123
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JOHN S.

Good one. Dead simple. I like it.

Joe.
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Old 02-03-2003, 07:53 PM   #124
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Default Trinity Brush Part #'s

Here are the part numbers for the brushes that we tried recently on the Chamelion II reffered to in a post above. The numbers are from a recent Trinity ad in RCCA mag.

I used the RC4499 compound brush which had the standard serrations. I prefer the crosscut serrations which has the part number RC4904 as it does not tear up the comm during breakin. The brush worked well.

There is a more recent compound with a little more silver and better lubricant called the 99 plus compound part number RC4903. RC4505 is the crosscut version which is the one my buddy tried. Worked well. Had very good top speed.
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Old 02-04-2003, 10:22 AM   #125
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I just recently purchased the IRS spur gear adapter. Here's the problem. The hub of the spur gear that attached to the dowel pin on the input shaft, is off cenetered. But the spur spins true. Its sort of like a camshaft for a real car. Now, will that created some kind of inertia, making the drive train inefficient?

Was wondering if I should get the spur adapter replaced?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 02-04-2003, 10:55 AM   #126
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tirbolag - If you feel there is any product defect, contact IRS directly. They will correct any fault of their own.

http://www.teamirsrc.com/contact.html

Last edited by Mike D; 02-05-2003 at 07:06 AM.
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Old 02-05-2003, 02:16 AM   #127
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

NEW PROP SHAFTS.

I know someone has started another thread on these. I got one of the new AE alloy ones yesterday and was disappointed to see that it weighs exactly twice what the standard composite one weighs.

What are your thoughts on the different possibilities - stock composite, stock alloy, IRS, Yoke!!!!!!

We had another great day Sunday, doing our 4th double this season. Josh won again - his 8th win from 8 championship rounds. He put in the only 21 lapper of the day, and physically lapped the second placed TC3 in the final. And I won again in stock too with my Yoke.

I got a stock of new graphite chassis and spent most of yesterday milling away at one for Josh's car. I'm going over the whole car while I'm at it, and changing a few things too. We'll see how it goes.

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 02-05-2003, 07:22 AM   #128
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on shafts I think the lighter one would be better for stock and the straighter one would be better for mod where speeds are higher and driveline vibration needs to be minimized.
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Old 02-05-2003, 11:23 AM   #129
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i had been running the IRS blue aluminum shaft for awhile now but recently went to the new blue factory team shaft and i am very impressed with it.

its about 35% smaller then the IRS shaft and its a LOT straighter, my car now sounds totally different! because of the straighter shaft it makes everything much more quiet! plus its less then half the price of the IRS shaft!

AE should have been making these a long time ago!!
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Old 02-06-2003, 09:45 AM   #130
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Default Gear Chart

I have an Excell spreadsheet which will generate a gearchart including spur/pinion ratio, overall ratio, and rollout. The image below shows the output for 69,72,75 (48 pitch spurs), 96 100,104, 112 (64 pitch spurs) with pinions from 22-41. If you would like a copy of the spreadsheet which can be adapted to any car send me a request by e-mail to [email protected]

I am using the 104 with a 37 tooth pinion for stock. This required some relieving of material on the motor cam so it would rotate further.
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 02-10-2003 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 02-10-2003, 08:37 PM   #131
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Default Bearings

We ran stock last thursday on the indoor asphalt which was the first time I ran stock with the TC3. I thought this would be a good time to free up the drivetrain. I purchased some outdrive bearings from Acer bearings with the non contact polyamide seals (four 3/8x 5/8) and some metal shielded bearings (twelve 3/16x3/8) for the wheels and input shafts. The goal was to reduce friction from the seals. The polyamide is just a rigid plastic that allows the seal to keep its shape and remain a non contact seal. I don't think it was better than metal shields which were not available in the larger size from Acer.

Rubbing
I did some minor scraping to the edges of the bearing channels. I found a friction point where the very front part of the plastic drive cup on the front input shaft was rubbing the gear case. I put it in a drill and relieved it slightly to cure the problem while it was out of the car.

The drivetrain is very free now. If I run the drivetrain up fast by hand with wheels on and pinion off, it freewheels for about 10 seconds. Many revolutions. This is probably good enough for me.

Bearing Lubrication
Acer did not specify the type of lubricant in these bearings on the web site. I don't know if it's grease or oil. I prefer grease to keep the dirt out. If no grease oozes out when I run them then it's probably oil and will make the bearings short lived. It might be OK on this indoor track. I'll give you a report in a week or two.

Gear Wear
I inspected the gear teeth with a magnifying glass to see if I could see any wear. The teeth on the input shaft pinions still have the rounded shape (that you can see looking at the edge of a tooth) all the way along the teeth with no noticeable wear. The Aerocar lube I mentioned in a previous post seems to be doing its job well. I add a little bit through the extra screw hole in the gear case about every 6 runs. I still wonder if the gears are a little faster when just broken in after a few packs. I ordered a new set just to see.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 02-11-2003 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 02-10-2003, 10:16 PM   #132
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John:

Hi,

After a little snaffu at our local post office............. I gave them the package but they never sent it they will be going out today (Tuesday). it sucks to live in a little town

Bearings,

I just installed a set from Acer Racing this past weekend in a friends TC3. I think they were the teflon sealed bearings. after pulling out all the seals and soaking them we got most of the grease out and lightly oiled them and reinstalled the seals. so far the TC3 is very free. we run indoors on carpet/foams

Gears,

I still have the gears out of my 1st TC3. after running them every weekend throughout the winters they show a little wear but they are the most quiet sounding gears I have running right now.
I have yet to try the stuff that John is using. I use something called Johnnysnot......it's from the mountian bike shop it works really well and doesn't seem to fling off as fast as other greases I have tried.


Thanks

Fakk2
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Old 02-11-2003, 01:48 AM   #133
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Spent most of last week working on son Josh's TC3.

As far as the new chassis was concerned, I milled away about half the centre spine to bring cells closer to the centre, repositioned the fan so that it blows down the motor instead of across it, and opened up the motor hole below the motor for better cooling.

While I was at it I took the diffs to bits but simply washed them out and rebuilt them with new Stealth grease. It's amazing. These diffs have been on the car for half a season and there was absolutely nothing wrong with them. I didn't even change the plastic outdrives. I did however go over the cases carefully, relieving high spots where necessary. I also put it together with the new blue centre shaft.

Another mod was the rear tower up front using the top body mount holes for the top shock location and the outer wishbone holes below. On the rear I also put a 1 x 0 rear pivot pin mount - I use Fastrax alloy ones all round, to try and get a bit more straight line speed.

Josh ran the car on Friday evening. First impressions......it's too tail happy. So out goes the 1 x 0 and back in goes the 2 x 1. He was happier about it then.

He thought the whole exercise had in fact made the car more responsive and easier to drive. Looking at it along the track there seemed to be alot less body roll on right handers - a result of moving the weight further into the centre, so the mods seem to have had the desired effect.

I actually drove the car on Sunday. It is very responsive and seems to do everything well, so I think I can say the exercise was worth it.

We will see what Josh's results are like on Sunday.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 02-11-2003, 08:01 PM   #134
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Hey, ive been reading for a while and this thread has been a great help. Thanks john and all other contributors.

I have a minor gear mesh problem. I set the mesh with a piece of paper (or so they move just bearly), but when i tighten down the screws the motor mount rotates away from the spur gear leaving me with a loose gear mesh (about 3mm rotation in the spur). Everytime i tighten them it happens, I have tried switching the order in which i tighten them. I am using the blue aluminum motor mount (it seems like its a little tight anyway), but it still happens a little with the stock black motor mount.

If anyone can help out, my lap times and I would be highly appreciative.
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Old 02-11-2003, 09:25 PM   #135
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mab_man20- You are welcome.
I would quit using the paper. Setting gear mesh is a trial and error thing. You can't really check it until the screws are tight. If the motor always loosens then start a little tight. I always snug the inner screw first and then tighten a couple of turns past where the outer screw touches the spring. Then check the mesh. Don't over tighten the outer screw. It's Ok do repeat this a couple of times till its just right. Now turn the spur and check mesh at a couple more spots. You get pretty quick doing this with practice.


Fakk2 Thanks for mailing those puppies out.

Joe. I had not been able to locate aluminum A-arm mounts with 0 antisquat. Do you have a link or web address.

Thanks for the reports.

In theory the lateral placement of weight will not affect the total amount of roll it will just affect the speed at which the car will settle. Weight near the center line will let the car settle faster into its rolled postion. Placing weight higher will increase roll.

Placing weight near the center will also decrease the rotational inertia of the car with respect to a vertical axis through the center of gravity. This will let the car rotate on this vertical axis easier in the corners and quicken the response. The car will rotate easier.


Last edited by John Stranahan; 02-11-2003 at 09:32 PM.
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