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Old 11-11-2003, 04:20 PM   #421
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TCE Factory Where next

Seems a strainge question but. I have a Factory on the way accross the pond to the UK... " great Exchange rate at the moment by the way"....I was looking through the Thread.. I can see may PPL opting for say IRS Hop ups etc etc or evan Hinge pins that are so strong they break test equipment ... But what would be really useful after reading the building tips would be a list of hop up's PPL have fitted they could not Live without...

Where else do we need to go from the factory spec?? Stronger hing pins for example is a little exsessive unless you spend most of the time in the ARMCO.. No offence intended of course.. but what are the real performance getting hop ups?.. Not that we would want to share them all

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BERT.
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Old 11-11-2003, 10:31 PM   #422
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for me,i find these hop-ups important:
IRS spur holder
RPM bumper
IRS pin cushions
Lightweight diff halfs/IRS alu diffs
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Old 11-12-2003, 07:26 AM   #423
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Alum. Spur Holder
AE Polished Hinge Pins
Battery slot mod (if you run GPs)
AE Steel Diffs (if you run mod)
Spool (if you run on an open asphalt track)
Losi Spindles (if you like more steering)
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Old 11-12-2003, 09:34 AM   #424
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Great stuff we can start seeing similarities in peoples preferences of HOP UPS.
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Old 11-13-2003, 11:04 AM   #425
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The associated polished pins part #1651 and the IRS input shafts would be good hop ups. Put plastic Drive Axles (bones) on the rear. Save the Aluminum bones for the front. Not much else is needed on a team kit. The plastic gear mount is lighter and works fine with a light touch on the mounting screws. As far as spending time on the Armco, most of the posters with more than a few post on this thread don't spend a lot of time on the armco. I usually finished in the top three at our track at Reflex, but if you spend any time at all on the armco with a TC3 you will usually need an arm a pin and a pivot block set. A stronger pin would reduce the need to buy a pivot block set each time. The design team of the TC3 has admitted these parts are undersized. In the meantime one can search for stronger materials.

The stock pins that came with my team kit were cut with a dull metal shear which bent the pins and messed up the ends. They were unusable without a lot of sanding. This is the first part that I would replace.

Unfortunately the associated polished pins were not in stock in Houston. I have ordered a set to test which will be here in a week on Thursday.

I have now a set of the following pins to test

M2 High Speed tool steel- Carbon 0.83 %, Chromium 4.15%, Molybdenum 5%, Vanadium 1.9%, Tungsten 6.35 %

M42 Cobalt tool steel- Carbon 1.08 % Chromium 3.75%, Molybdenum 9.50%, Vanadium 1.10%, Tungsten 1.50 %, Cobalt 8.0 %
Photo of Tester on post from 11/3/03

Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-13-2003 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 11-21-2003, 07:49 AM   #426
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Help! I have a FTTC3 problem that I can't resolve. Coming out of a left hand turn it oversteers to the left (I think that is the best description) when back on power. Thought we had a tweek so we replaced all the hinge pins and the chassis. Running a diff up front. Tires are glued. My son can minimize the problem by dialing out steering, but then he doesn't have enough throw to drive.

Indoor track, 9 sec lap times, asphalt. Med bite.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-21-2003, 08:35 AM   #427
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the 1st thing is to try it out of the track.get a long straight and flick it left and right.
the info ur giving is not enough.
tyres can make a difference.also check wheel angles at full turn.
have u tighten both sides of the sway bar?
droop adjusted properly?shocks well filled?i could go on.
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Old 11-21-2003, 08:42 AM   #428
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Droop is 6 F and 4 R. Shocks have rebound when spring is off, and are the same length. Tweek board looks good, shock collars are even. No sway bar.

Thanks for the response, if you need more info I'll be glad to provide it.
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Old 11-21-2003, 05:45 PM   #429
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Oversteer to the left, but not to the right. A couple of problems can cause this. One is wedge in the chassis. Left front and Right rear are heavy. Usually the tweak station will remove this.

The other problem is too much steering throw to the right and not enough to the left. As a start make sure the car will drive aproximately the same size circles at full lock clockwise and counterclockwise in a slow circle. The TC3 actually has asymmetric steering to compensate for some torque steer so the circles may not be exactly the same size, but close. This asymmetry was discussed previously in this thread. See the link below.

A third thing to try is to drive without using the stops on the steering. Add extra steering travel and then you can apply enough steering to suit each corner. This is the way that Christian Tabush and I drive on indoor asphalt. We set the car to circle in about 1/2 a lane.

Torque steer discussion on this thread, Reference to torque steer article

(Had trouble getting the Associated polished Hinge Pins. Tests will have to wait a bit.)

Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-22-2003 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 11-22-2003, 06:14 AM   #430
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TC3 replacement

Does anyone know when associated will be replacing the TC3?
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Old 11-22-2003, 09:09 AM   #431
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Default Re: TC3 replacement

Quote:
Originally posted by danjoy25
Does anyone know when associated will be replacing the TC3?
If it's not broke...why fix it.
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:02 PM   #432
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Default Inner Hinge Pin Test Continued From Previous Page

I tested the pins I had in hand. Here are the results. I used a set of inch-pound torque wrenches, one inch up on the pin to bend the pin. I increased the torque until the pin was permanently bent .005 inch. This is about the point at which you can just see a bend and friction will develop in the suspension pivots. Photo of Tester on post from 11/3/03

The bigger the number the stronger the pin material

M42 Cobalt Steel pin 38 inch-pound

M2 High Speed Steel pin 28 inch-pound

High Speed Steel pin from China 22 inch-pound

A pin in #42 diameter from the USA division of VGT DB (a German Company) 38 inch-pound

BRP Pin 22 inch-pound


My local hobby shop could not get the associated polished pins. Apparently they are not quite fully in the pipeline yet.

I suggest the M42 Cobalt pins. Iíll post a graph of the bending vs torque applied in a day or so. It is interesting that all of the pins are similarly stiff at 10 inch-pound of torque on the fixture. The main difference in the pins is the force required to permanently deform them, or their elastic limit. The test seems to be sensitive enough to identify materials to some degree.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-09-2003 at 07:24 AM.
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:48 PM   #433
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Very interesting.
If I translate it to impact force, wouldn't the graphite parts break first?
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Old 12-08-2003, 10:58 PM   #434
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Default Hinge Pin test Graph

Here is a graph comparing the M2 steel pin with the M42 cobalt steel pin. From about 0 to 18 inch-pound the two materials behave similarly and have about the same stiffness. The lines have the same slope. (The steeper the line the more flexible the pin) At about 20 inch-pound the M42 Cobalt pin gets a little stiffer than the M2 steel. (the line is less steep) until it finally gives way at 38 inch-pound. This increased stiffness and high yield strength are good characteristic for a hinge pin.

The last point on each line of the graph is the point at which the pin was permanantly bent .005 inch and the test was stopped.

The point of a stonger pin is so that instead of buying a new arm, pin and pivot block set, you may just have to buy a new arm. On a stock TC3 the pin always bends as the graphite breaks and rips out the pivot block hole.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg graph pin test 100 dpi.jpg (42.2 KB, 134 views)

Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-09-2003 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 12-09-2003, 05:02 AM   #435
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What happen to the M2 at 30? Did it snap?
How does the M42 perform compare to Ti? Strength wise of course.
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