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Old 05-06-2003, 04:40 PM   #346
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Hello Guys
Ive just got myself a FT TC3,i got a mate to build it-but when i hold it and put the power on it vibrates like hell-so i havn't used it yet has i don't want to cause any problems-is it noraml for it to vibrate.?.if not how do i solve it.?.
Ive also noticed the main shaft has around 3-4mm side to side play.is this normal,with me not building it im not sure if things are right or wrong..

Any help would be much appreciated
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Old 05-06-2003, 05:06 PM   #347
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Any one?
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Old 05-06-2003, 05:11 PM   #348
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there should be little to no vibration, but something is wrong if it "vibrates like hell". You might want to check the bearings on each side of the shaft, behide the shaft outdrives.
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Old 05-06-2003, 05:16 PM   #349
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Cheers Jhonny
ill have a look or i might take it back to M/shop,let them have a look..
Thanks
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Old 05-06-2003, 07:21 PM   #350
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Stevie

You should not have that much play in the main shaft.

Check if you have the "o" ring installed.
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Old 05-06-2003, 07:49 PM   #351
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The main driveshaft should not have 3-4 mm of play. They do bend on occasion. A bent shaft might cause the vibration you are experiencing. I do not run the o-ring and my shaft runs true as it is held true by the inside of the drive cups. A loose or worn drive cup might also cause the shaft to wobble. The end of the shaft should have only a little side to side play in the drive cups. The drive cups should not move on the little input shafts. Try to run the car up without wheels to see if the wheels are the problem.
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Old 05-06-2003, 08:49 PM   #352
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Hey, is there any problem running the blue shaft? Any breaking/tweaking/bending?
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Old 05-06-2003, 08:57 PM   #353
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I like the blue associated shaft. It is quite straight. I have not bent one using a one-way. I have seen one bend using a locked diff which is harder on the driveline in the crashes.
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Old 05-06-2003, 09:31 PM   #354
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With 2 normal diffs does it work well? I heard that you must be really good at driving or it bends, is this true?
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Old 05-07-2003, 08:11 AM   #355
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2 normal diffs apply the least stress to the main shaft. It should work fine. A stronger shaft will break the drive cups so there is not much advantage to going stronger. The associated shaft is reasonably priced. Just try one.
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Old 05-07-2003, 12:11 PM   #356
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I haven't damaged an aluminum shaft yet, but I have broke one composite shaft running a one-way.

Later
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Old 05-07-2003, 12:35 PM   #357
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Ive twisted a Ti shaft... but never broken/twisted a standard one. Like John said... stronger isnt always better...
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Old 05-09-2003, 09:31 AM   #358
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Default AE Shocks with Yokomo Caps

Hello,

I recently bought some yokomo caps (with bleeder screw) for my Tc3 shocks. My understanding is that it'll make it easier to get my shocks correctly filled. However, after rebuilding my shocks with the new caps last night, I can't tell if the shocks are properly filled. (if your wondering, I bought the car used and don't have the manual)

Could someone elaborate on the proper way to fill and bleed my TC3 shocks with the yokomo caps that have the bleeder screw?

thanks,

Buddha
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Old 05-09-2003, 12:19 PM   #359
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I don't have the Yokomo caps, but I'll tell you the standard way to fill the AE shocks. Fill the shock overfull with the shock shaft fully extended. There will be a bulge of fluid on top. Fill the caps about half way with additional oil. Assemble quickly so as not to spill. This is a lot easier than it sounds as the fluid is quite viscous. Close the top. Test by pushing the shock shaft in. It should push in easy the whole way. If it does not you have too much fluid. The shaft should then return about half way out on its own. This method requires the little sponges to be in the shocks. My opinion is that a loosely sealed RC shock will always have some air inside after only a little use. There is not really any point to elimitating all the air. The air space is required so that the shock shaft can enter without creating a hydraulic lock which would stop the shaft from entering. Some of this space in the AE shock is in the little sponge. I would use the bleed screws to let out a little fluid if the shock shaft did not enter easily the whole way. On the AE shock you need to loosen the cap to let out some fluid. On some shocks the airspace is separated from the fluid by a rubber diaphragm. I'll note that Losi XXXS shocks are quite simple and seem to work just fine.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 05-09-2003 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 05-09-2003, 08:24 PM   #360
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thanks for the response John....
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