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Old 04-05-2003, 10:15 AM   #286
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Your gizzmo looks ingenious and i agree that it will help out with that problem.
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Old 04-05-2003, 10:24 AM   #287
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'Ray-I think your reinforcing plate should help with the problem. If the chassis is twisted slightly you might clamp the chassis to untwist it before the glue sets.
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Old 04-05-2003, 10:30 AM   #288
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Thanks for your responses. And yes I was planning on clamping my chassis on an absolute flat surface before gluing the "gizzmo". I'll go whip up some epoxy.
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Old 04-05-2003, 11:03 PM   #289
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hey john,
i ran my tc3 today at reflex, i couldnt really get it hooked up, it really either had super duper steering... or really bad rear traction. Do you have your setup posted here someone, and is your chassis milled like christian?
thanks
johnny
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Old 04-06-2003, 08:43 AM   #290
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Johnny-My setup is posted near the front of this thread.

Current Setup

My Chassis is not milled to move the batterries. My setup is similar to Christians, though. We did both increase rear toe to 3 degrees to run open mod. I added steering traction a little at a time while I got used to the car, by softening the front and stiffening the rear.
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Old 04-09-2003, 02:42 PM   #291
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Default Drag Brake for Mod

One thing you discover, when you stick in a mod, is the car does not slow at all in neutral; there is not much natural braking from a mod motor. A stock motor and the Chamelion short the poles about 2% of the time which provides a natural soft braking action when you go to neutral if needed. Some speed controls like the now discontinued Novak TC2 have an adjustable dragbrake that can provide a similar result. My GM V12 has no easily adjusted drag brake, so I swapped it to a TC2 which when programed has an adjustable drag brake available to the onboard screw. Anyway here is a picture of the installation in case you are installing a similar chunky speed control. I put the receiver on the side so the difficult to secure power capacitor could be mounted low in the chassis. I have seen plenty of these dragging on the track after a wreck. Also note that you only need about a 16 or 14 gauge wire to power the speed control electronics and the servo and to provide a path for braking current. Only the negative lead is switched by the speed control on power.

Side to side balance is good with about .5 ounces of lead beside the motor. Corner weights are good, rear tire loads are within .1 ounces of each other.

Drag brake will give you considerable more turn in, in neutral, when running mod. For stock and a 19 turn Chamelion it is unnecessary due to the lay down brushes producing good braking in neutral.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg novak tc2 in tc3.jpg (88.2 KB, 378 views)

Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-09-2003 at 05:43 PM.
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Old 04-09-2003, 03:27 PM   #292
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Default Wild 8 Invitational

Join the Crew at Reflex RC in Houston, Texas for the Wild 8 Invitational April 19,20. Barry Baker will be attending. Classes include mod and stock TC.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-24-2003 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 04-10-2003, 09:39 AM   #293
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I just installed a rear shock tower on the front of my tc3. Now I can't seem to get ride height below anout 5.5 or so. I'm thinking I need to shim the tower some to make this work. Anyone else running into this problem?
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Old 04-10-2003, 10:03 AM   #294
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John,

For the + connection to the ESC I think even a servo wire is enough.
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Old 04-10-2003, 11:14 AM   #295
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Hi John,

Got your book the other day, very nice job.

I have a question on the TC3 side weight issue. I notice in your pic of the Novak TC2 that your car has SMH 3000's in it, and it looks as though all you needed to balance the car was a little lead in the left rear. I am currently running the GP3300 which are about 1.2oz heavier than the SMH's. I was wondering if you had done any playing with getting the car balanced with the heavier 3300's in it.
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Old 04-10-2003, 11:38 AM   #296
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timc did you fit the new front wishbones as well?
From what I here you need to run the outer holes on these with the rear tower on the front.
The old wishbones / inner hole make the car too high.

Don't shim the tower as it will alter the roll centre.
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Old 04-10-2003, 11:39 AM   #297
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roll tide- Thanks. I have not run the GP3000's yet due to the excessive weight. I am also making run time with an 11/2 or a 12/2 on our track with stock metal hydrides. There are two approaches you can use to balance the weight side to side. An Easy way might be to add a rear transponder practice weight cantilevered off the side of the car like the front transponder. This would be used in the place of lead next to the motor. I have a picture earlier in the thread. The title is Corner Weights (rear transponder mount).
Rear Transponder Mount

A second more difficult way is to dremmel or mill about 1/4 inch off the center rib to move the battery closer to the center. I prefer not to do this at present. A test at our track did not shown a significant improvement in lap times from this mod.

timc-when I had the rear tower on the front for a while, I was able to achieve a 5 mm ride height with the Factory team shocks and blue springs and rubber tires. 4.5mm caused the chassis to rub the ground so I did not try that. I did trim the lower spring mounts down to the level of the plactic shock ends to achieve a little more uptravel to the suspension. I do have the 2cnd generation A-arms and do mount the shocks in the outer hole on these arms. I have heard of guys having to shim this rear tower up when used in the front. You might need to do that if your collars won't go up far enough to achieve your desired ride height. The only point I see to the rear tower up front is if you need a hole farther ouboard than the front tower. At present I am using the middle hole on the front tower so I don't need the rear tower up front.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-10-2003 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 04-10-2003, 11:50 AM   #298
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DW- I am running the outer holes. I have the shock collars all the way up and still can't manage 4.5 or 5 ride height.
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Old 04-10-2003, 11:53 AM   #299
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timc-I added a part to my previous post about your problem.
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Old 04-10-2003, 11:56 AM   #300
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timc - Trim 1-2 mm off the plastic ball end that threads onto the shock shaft. This will lower your car an extra 1-2 mm.
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