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Old 02-27-2003, 11:02 PM   #181
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4070 brush
I made the blitz post from the computer at the track. Did not change the screen name. That 4070 brush is described as better wear not as powerful on the Trinity site. It also has less silver than a 4499.


I think you would have to admit that the first few pages of this thread would look pretty awkward in the middle of the TC3 thread. It is not really that much trouble to open two threads.


Breakage.

A racer installed a stiffer (solid) aluminum driveshaft on the TC3. Broke a couple of drive cups on the input shaft. Probably Aluminum drive cups would be desirable if you make this change.

Another racer had a screw come out of a IRS locked diff. Trashed the gears and braked the car to a halt. Probably ought to use just a bit of lock tite on the screws that mount the gear if you have one of these in your car.

We are testing the IRS dogbones as well. They have a fairly slender drive pin to make room for a tubular pin pillow. The dogbones don't bend but this drive pin acts like a fuse and may cause a slow finish when using a oneway or locked diff. I have not tried them myself as the TC3 dogbones will bend but will usually finish without affecting the car much.

Traction compound Time of Application.

I did an experiment with time of application. Used 5 minutes on the first and third heats and 10 minutes on the second heat. The 5 minute application was 5 seconds faster race time for me. First and third heats were within one second of each other. It did not seem to matter much when you put on the 5 minutes. Wipe the tires off when the time is up. Use a paper towel so you can throw the smelly thing away when you are done. I used 4 minutes in the main and had my fastest lap.

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Old 02-28-2003, 01:17 AM   #182
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john: i guess is hould have said "john is right" then! hehehe ... will check out trinity myself to get more info. Thanks john!
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Old 03-03-2003, 07:33 PM   #183
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Default Motor Spring Tensions

Previously a good stock motor setup at Reflex was using Trinity Black overhead Springs (9 ounces) slightly tweaked open until the arms were 180 degrees apart. This applies about 7 ounces of force on the brush face on my current gauge. A photo is in a previous post. Now these black springs are not available it seems. The Trinity Green Spring (9 ounce) is the replacement. Two examples that I measured only applied about 5.5 ounces to the brush face. If you bend the long arm until it is 180 degrees (which is a large change) from the other arm you are back at 7 ounces. I think this is a better tension for a high grip track for a stock motor. Higher than this and the motor does not run as strong on our track. An Unaltered Warlock medium spring applies about 7-7.6 ounces. A good brush is the Reedy 769 with the serrations worn off.

Latest Chamelian 19 turn Setup (edited 4/11/03)

This motor needs a little more tension to keep the brushes from burning on our track. Try a Warlock Red Spring (medium) opened up about 20 degrees more than it comes to apply about 8.0 ounces on the positive. A green spring opened up to 180 degrees on the negative or an unbent Warlock red medium Spring on the negative. I tried two of the light green trinity springs on the Chamelian unaltered Sunday. There was no benefit in power, so its better to not burn the brushes and use the stiffer springs. A good brush is the Trinity 4505 with the serrations worn off. We are getting 12 good runs with a comm cut every 4 runs or so.

Acer Bearings

I have about 22 runs on the noncontact seal oiled bearings. The wheels now freewheeled only 5 seconds instead of 10 if I spin them up fast by hand wheels on pinion off. 50% deterioration already. I dissasembled the diffs and found grit in two of the rear outdrive bearings. I expected this to happen. I replaced the outdrive bearings with the stock teflon sealed bearings. I still got 5 seconds of freewheel. The input shaft metal sealed bearings were still in good shape. I have replaced a couple of the wheel bearings as they were damaged from crashes. Still don't like oiled bearings much for club racing. You can clean out a bearing with grit in it, but you can't clean out the damage the grit made.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 03-14-2003 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 03-03-2003, 10:41 PM   #184
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Greetings from a new owner,

First of all, what a great thread and lots of good contributors. I just finished building my FT TC3 last night and something is not right with the Front Block carriers and Front A-arms. It seems like mine is not symmetrical. The LEFT front block carrier is closer to the backside of the LEFT Front A-arm and the RIGHT front block carrier is closer to the frontside of the RIGHT Front A-arm. Is that how it suppose to be. I don't have a pic to clearly show this. Does anyone have a close up pic of the underside of the front A-arms?

Also, John had mentioned replacing the kit Aluminum screws that is used in the bottom of the chassis with some steel ones, if I already threaded the parts using the kit Aluminum screws, is it to late now to replace it.

Thanks for reading and looking forward to read more.

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Old 03-04-2003, 08:54 AM   #185
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Driven-. Here is a pic of the bottom front.

Never to late to change screws. Note the damage to the corner screws in the pic. I would change these corner screws front and back as soon as possible to prevent damage to the chassis.
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Old 03-04-2003, 09:30 AM   #186
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John, Thanks for the pic. Is that a Factory Team Front Block carrier? Yours look evenly spaced out. I modified your pic to show what I meant. One of my block carrier is cloaser to front of one A-arm. The result of this is my steering is not the same from lock to lock. Now, is there a left and right Front block carrier on a Factory Team.
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Old 03-04-2003, 10:38 AM   #187
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hi guys, Greetings from Malta.

Looks to me like the ones in the pic are the 4 degree ones.

Is that correct John?

We had another super day Sunday. Josh has now won 10 out of 10 rounds. The TC3 with the new mods ran well.

Check out our results on www.irmcc.com

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 03-04-2003, 10:47 AM   #188
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I wouldn't like to guess what caster the blocks in the picture have as one of the hinge pins is escaping which will effect caster.

Driven - Remember that the front steering arms have different thickness bump stops moulded into them which gives slightly different lock from left to right.
This is a deliberate design feature to compensate for torque steer in corners. The car should not have the same lock in both directions.

Not quite what you describe though. Are the hinge pins straight?
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Old 03-04-2003, 11:09 AM   #189
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Driven-I have the 4 degree caster blocks installed. I pulled out the stock 0 degree ones and see what you mean. They are the same block left and right but it is not quite a symmetrical piece, so when mounted on opposite sides it creates the problem you describe. I don't think that it will be a noticeable problem driving the car. Use the Endpoint adjustment on the radio to insure the car drives the same size circles left and right rather than using the hard stops. The hubs (knuckles) that I am using are Losi XXXS parts. They give a little more steering throw as well as having the screw holes the proper size for adequately gripping the screw and ballstud. One of my Assciated replacement hubs was stripped out when brand new.

After you get used to the car you might try more caster and 0 kickup to gain a little more front cornering traction.

DW-Seems the bump stops on the steering arm would be the same as it is the same part left and right. My set screw was loose.

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Old 03-04-2003, 12:14 PM   #190
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John, I haven't got my car here to check, but the manual on Associated's site would seem to agree with you.
However my car definitely has assymetric steering lock and there used to be an article on the cml (uk distributors) site where Cliff Lett explained that the assymetry was there for a reason and the parts should not be trimmed.
Thinking about it the difference may be in the actual uprights themselves where the bump stop hits.
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Old 03-04-2003, 04:57 PM   #191
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DW

I tend to agree with you on the stock knuckles don't have a lot of throw. But it is not the knuckles themselves. The main problem is the steering rack in my opinion. I was going to use the Losi knuckles and carriers but i went to the GPM one's instead. I had to turn down my endpoint for steering the throw was so much more. Not only that but the bottom 4-40 shouldered screw doesn't sneak out anymore. Stripping the threads out is thing of the past too. I was just something i wanted to try and fell in love with them. Yes i know their heavier but for the simple fact of not going through knuckes from stripped screws, its worth it
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Old 03-04-2003, 05:10 PM   #192
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John,

Thanks for looking into your stock caster blocks. At first I thought that I had put together the kit incorrectly, I guess I should be alright and the true test should be in the track.

DW,

You are also correct, I went and look for the CML article and it explains that the steering is indeed asymmetrical but dynamically symmetrical and it has reasons for it due to torque reactions.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-04-2003, 07:28 PM   #193
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torque steer article
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Old 03-05-2003, 01:46 PM   #194
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I took a look at my 4 degree caster blocks. It does appear that the steering stop is bigger on the left side. In use I don't actually move the radio wheel until it stops while cornering; I just apply steering subconsciously. I believe that Christian has his radio set up similarly with more steering throw than he actually uses on the track in normal driving. In addition the Losi hubs don't reach the stops. This excess steering throw gets you out of a jam on occasion.
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Old 03-05-2003, 07:28 PM   #195
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I agree with john on the article. the throw from left to right is not equal. John also its nice to have that extra throw to get yourself out of jams but you should use the minumal amount of throw to get yourself around the track.

Is anyone running 4 degree castor blocks in the front. with 0 toe out, in the front. 3 degrees in the rear. Basically the stock carpet foam setup. Put the rear shock tower in the front too. And lay the shocks down all the way with the use of the lower body post holes. The front is a real progressive, but not slow. It will turn on a dime either on power or off.

Try it and tell me what you think.
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