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Old 02-19-2003, 10:19 PM   #151
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take all the shims out of the drivetrain, at most leave one in there to space the pinion up a little. this should help.

Another thing is not to tighten too much the two screws on the bulkhead cap on the side where the counter shaft exits the box

On the MVP's, try cutting the brushes to a .140-.150 face (basically making the face of the brush square) Just cut the leading edges, not the whole brush. Orion red spring (+) Orion green spring (-) Oh, yeah, 767 brushes. Motors run cool, great torque, incredible top speed and yes, It runs cool... (btw, brushes and comm last a long time)
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Old 02-20-2003, 09:04 AM   #152
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tweeter-we have not used the center oneway on the TC3. The belt cars at our track have no problem running a center one-way and a front one-way. Don't see why it would not work on the TC3. What does that combination do poorly.

mab_man20-Sounds like your ring gear is running out of true. If this is a ball diff then there probably was a problem with the ball diff. Maybe it overheated from slippage. They need to be run a bit and then retightened. Might need to put on new oudrives to get it back right. I doubt the case moved or deformed.

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Old 02-20-2003, 01:13 PM   #153
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there is no real downside, except for the free wheeling that comes with any one-way. other then that i'm very happy with the preformance of this one piece of hardware
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Old 02-20-2003, 09:27 PM   #154
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I believe this the way to cut the brush.This is the way big jim does it
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Old 02-20-2003, 09:43 PM   #155
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John: I already replaced all the gears so im ruling that out. It is a ball diff and i usually run front and rear 1/8 turn out (back it out 1/4 then retighten 1/8).

Im going to talk to associated, but will probly end up replacing the outdrives, the shaft, input shafts, and worst case scenerio the cases too.

Thanks for all your help.
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Old 02-20-2003, 10:08 PM   #156
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The ball diff screw should be tightened until you feel the spring bottom out (fully compress) then back out 1/2 turn. I usually run them in a little by holding one wheel while applying power on the bench. Then repeat this tightening operation. Then reapeat it after one pack. Then they don't need attention for a long time. I think your gear is OK but the diff is somehow warped. Platic outdrives are cheap for this car.


Droop Measurements

The droop on the front wheel that I have been reporting is measured with the supplied gauge to the bottom of the set screw boss on the front caster block. This is a carryover on my part from the Losi manual I believe. Christian measures to the hinge pivot tube and gets a different number. We do run very similar actual droop on the car.

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Old 02-21-2003, 11:58 AM   #157
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JOHN S.

Have a look in the thread about touring car tweek, and read my last contribution.

Perhaps you have some ideas??????

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 02-21-2003, 12:51 PM   #158
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Joe- My TC3 does not wander on the straight. I use only 4 degrees of caster in the caster blocks no kickup. Some things that cause wander.

tight hub pivots. Disconnect the steering link make sure they rotate easy.

Loose servo saver. The steering rack is not able to follow the servo closely.

Toe out. Live with the wander to improve initial turn in.

Gritchy steering rack. The rack tends to build up a nasty gritch right on center. Scrape it good till the rack moves easy near the center with all the links popped loose.
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Old 02-21-2003, 01:39 PM   #159
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Quote:
Gritchy steering rack
How would I know if I had a gritchy steering rack? Can you define gritchy?
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Old 02-21-2003, 02:31 PM   #160
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I believe when your steering rack moves from side to side (using your hands to move the rack) the rack does not move very smoothly. Feels like there is a lot of dirt or tiny rocks in the rack.
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Old 02-21-2003, 07:11 PM   #161
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Sorry to use that "word". Maybe gritty would be better.
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Old 02-24-2003, 10:04 AM   #162
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Nope, gritchy is a good description of it.

That's what I assumed you meant, but I wanted to make sure I had it right.
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Old 02-25-2003, 11:53 AM   #163
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hello john

i guess i will be trying the tc3 out this thursday night since i picked up brian a's car .not sure if i'll run stock or mod with it.
i hope i like it as much or better than my 414.
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Old 02-25-2003, 12:02 PM   #164
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Froggy- Good luck with the new car. Hope to see your Thursday.
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Old 02-25-2003, 05:35 PM   #165
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Default Tire Temperature Ratings

Today it was about 55 F on the indoor asphalt at ReflexRC. Ran the TC3 with a Chamelion II 19x1. Takeoff CS 27 tires hooked up well. The number 27 is the Celcius temperature that the tires were developed for. 27 x 9/5 +32 gives the Farenheit temperature, which would be 81 F. I measured the tire temperature after a run and it was 78 F, so there was about 23 F degrees of on track heating which is why the tires worked well. This particular tire always hooks up better on the second and succeeding runs. I used traction compound for 10 minutes before the first run and then only about 3 minutes for each run after that.


Trintity 4505 brushes

These brushes seem to come in on the second and third heat when all the serrations are gone. Don't give up on them too soon. Felt good today geared at 7.14. I used Warlock red (medium) springs. Will try lighter springs (trintiy medium green) in the future when we get some in.

IRS Transponder mount

I mounted an IRS transponder mount. See photo below. This is one of those things you buy just because it looks so good. If you have moved the batteries toward the center this mount puts too much weight to the right, but for a standard chassis it is just right.
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File Type: jpg irs transponder mount.jpg (69.3 KB, 228 views)

Last edited by John Stranahan; 02-26-2003 at 09:22 AM.
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