Need help with TRF415/TA05 suspension mounts/blocks
 

Hi all,
I had quite a heavy hit on the front of my TA05 last week and the stock suspension mount broke. I decided to change all 4 pieces to the stronger aluminium ones but became rather confused when I realised there were so many versions (D bridge, A blocks, B blocks, C blocks.....ZZZZ blocks?!?!) :confused: . I don't know what all the different types mean, how they are supposed to be matched up and what the pros/cons are for using each type of setup.

Googled a few searches but nothing turned up. :flaming: Can anyone enlighten me please? I don't need any fancy setups (don't enter races)...but I just don't want my mates to whip my ass at the track. :p

Thanks in advance!

Also, is there a perceived difference between 3Racing products and Xenon products? I know they both have hop-ups for TA05 but wanted to find out if there is a general consensus on which is better. Thanks again! :D

search the trf415 thread for tryhard, his sig has his website that has a chart for the blocks...
regarding the ta05 parts, check out speedtechrc.com they have an article where the build an ultimate ta05..

This one is made by Kawada and is developed to take a hit. It is spring loaded so you are less likely to break something.

http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/partsli...h_tub506_3.jpg http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/partsli.../ph_tub506.jpg

WHERE DID YOU GET THOSE??YOU GOT ANY LINK OF WHERE TO GET IT?

I'm here :p
Regarding the blocks, basically, the different version are different widths. Firstly, that allows different toe angles to be run, and secondly it allows the track widths of the cars to be tuned as well.

The blocks go (from widest to narrowest)

1E, 1D, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1X, XA, XB, XC, XD

and there is a 0.5deg difference in toe between each one.

If you take as an example the rear of a 415MSX (so zero degree rear hubs, i.e. all the toe in is set on the suspension blocks), say you want to run 2deg of rear toe (which is about right for 27t), now you have a large number of options.
You can either have a wide rear track by using 1X on the front and 1D on the rear, or a narrow rear track by using XD on the front, and 1X on the rear.
The level of toe-in is still the same, but the car width is different.

Generally it's been found that narrower is better outdoors, it gives more grip, and quicker rotation, at the expense of some stability. Indoors (on carpet), it seems that a wider track generally works better, as the car seems more stable.

I've just had a look at a TA05 manual... looks like you need the following to work on your car.

2x TAM53685 Suspension block A-Bridge [these are the ones that go over the belts, so the front-rear, and rear-front block]
2x TAM51065 Suspension block 1A [goes on the front-front block, the one you broke, and the rear-rear]

Thoose parts take your car back to as it was. It doesn't look like there is much option on tuning the track width with a TA05... looks like the most you can do is tune the rear toe in. You'll probably want to get

1x TAM51066 Suspension block 1B
1x TAM51067 Suspension block 1C

That will mean you can also have 2.5 and 3.0 deg of rear toe in.

Hope it helps
Ed

oh, and just to make it even more confusing, there are also just

E, D, C, B, A, X

blocks avaliable as well (note, no 1 in front of the letter), these are for the Evo4, and have the pin height 1mm higher the other blocks. It is the 1series blocks you need.

Just as a note - the 1XA to 1XD blocks can be flipped over and used with spacers as bridge blocks.

It is also advisable to start narrower as you can always easily adjust by using wheel spacers rather than replacing the blocks.

Concur, the acts well with a narrower stance. If it does not suit your drving style work one end, or both wider till you find your nirvana. Working with the suspension blocks has been a real help to my track setups. ;)