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Old 12-27-2002, 05:46 AM   #1
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Default brushes + stock motors

OK, I understand that you have to tru your comm after about every 3 races. And I understand that there is a tool to align your brushes after you take them off to take the armature out. My question is...is it safe to take the brushes off my P2K2 Pro Stock motor and put them back on and not have to align them. If I understand correctly, on a stock motor you don't need the brush hood alignment tool. Am I right?
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Old 12-27-2002, 06:07 AM   #2
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A motor should only need hood alignment once - when you get it - it's not something that's re-done every time you take the brushes out. You should be able to remove and install brushes without worries (although if you already have an alignment tool/technique, there's no harm in checking)
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Old 12-27-2002, 10:19 AM   #3
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The only times you should have to align the brush hoods would be when you first buy the motor, unless it is a tuned motor, and if / when you take the brush hoods apart for cleaning.

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Old 12-27-2002, 10:26 AM   #4
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Default In the HOOD


I usually check the HOOD when I'm apart for a Com cut. Most importantly LOOK at the brushes and see if they are wearing more to one side.
EPIC (Trinity) Motors are usually well aligned from the factory and take very little to get them right on. Yokomo (Reedy) Motors tend to be off by quite a bit and may take some work to get them right.

Yes it's safe to pull the Brushes without disturbing the alignment. Look for uneven wear (alignment), burning, discoloration (purple) and signs of overheating (usually gearing).
Surf the Motor manufacturers websites for tips on what to look for and how to tune your motors. Trinity, Fantom have some good info on their sites.
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Old 12-27-2002, 11:09 AM   #5
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Not to start a argument but what I have seen Trinity Stock Motors are really out of alignment when you first get them and need the most adjsutment. I have not played with the MVP but the Core and Hellfire Motors were pretty good with alignment (a lot better the the Trinity stuff).

The only time you really have to change the alignment of a old motor is when you change to a different brush type. Going from a 4499 to a 767 will make you have to adjust for a little cocking that will happen. Then if you go from 767 to a 766 brush you will have to do the same again.
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Old 12-27-2002, 01:26 PM   #6
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When you cut your comm you do not have to replace the brushes if they have only around 10 runs on them. It could be less it could be more it all depeds on how it looks. If it is discolored and the sides are burt replace them when you cut it. If you just use the comm stick to clean the brush it will still work and will not be bad for the motor it will just not be as fast as new brushes seated to a fresh comm. Oh and if the serations are still there you can still use the brush with a simple swipe of the comm stick and you don't have to rub to hard to get the crap off.
Go to
www.teamtrinity.com and look at the motor tips to see a burt brush .

go to
www.axiommotors.com for some fast brushes
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Old 12-27-2002, 02:27 PM   #7
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Talking MVP's

Oh I just love a good motor thread!

Popsracer hit nail right on the head when he stated "LOOK at the brushes and see if they are wearing more to one side." This is the most important thing when setting up, tuning, rebuilding, retuning, heck even just cleaning the stinking motor. Heres the catch though, there isn't a specialty tool out there that magically aligns a brush hood correctly. They all come from the factory pretty close to the mark but there is always atleast one side or the other out of whack. Especially on MVP's, my favorite stock motor.

The brush hoods on the MVP's are the exact same laydown style hoods that were on Reedys last "Big Comm" motors. The old motors name escapes me now but the commutator on these motors were larger than a standard stockers comm. Trinity tried this theory as well in hopes to try and reduce "overlap". Overlap is caused when one pole of armature is shorted out because the positive and negative brushes contact that pole at the same time due to the excessive width of the laydown style brushes. Since the commutator was BIGGER on that Reedy motor the interior length of the brush hoods had to be shortened so they wouldn't make contact with the comm.

For some unexplained reason (cost savings maybe?) Reedy used these same brush hoods on the MVP which has a standard (smaller) com. When the standard laydown brushes are then installed they begin run out of support when reaching the extra long distance from the shortened brush hood to the standard comm size of the MVP. Here is where people get messed up. Any hood alignment tool can set these hoods perfectly in line with one another and perpendicular to the armature, but when power is added, friction from brush/comm contact cocks the brush to one side. This is why each hood has to be done by hand, not only on the MVP, but on all stock motors even though they may not have as much movement.
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Old 12-27-2002, 09:36 PM   #8
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trinity stock motors are the worst for hood alignment from what ive seen and there getting worse. paradox motor was pretty good, but the p2k2's that we got were so bad we had to lengthen the hole to get the brush wear in the centre. also it was really obvious on the track who had and hadnt done it, it mayed all the difference on the large track we raced on at the nats.
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Old 12-27-2002, 09:50 PM   #9
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That is what the trick is supposed to be with the MVP hoods. Take your rotary tool to the spring post hole so that there is more room for adjustment. The Trinity hoods do tend to tweak very easily because of the copper they now use. This is why I won't use them and I stick to the Reedys. I usually just swap out brush hoods with some from a Top Design motors. Easiest fix.
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