New Yokomo BD12
#121
Tech Adept

Still slowly building my chassis.. 
However, I'm really struggling to actually close the shock with the oil in it.
It becomes so oily and slippery when I put on the bladder that I have absolutely no grip when I try to screw on the shock cap.
Also, when I try to screw it on it never sits flat, so I'm really afraid that I will damage the thread on the shock housing....
I have built Xray shocks, brandless shocks, TRF shocks, all were really easy, but I've been trying for around 2hrs and not managed to close a single one yet.......
Anyone have any tips to make it a bit easier?
Btw, I haven't drilled the shock caps yet as I would like to try the shocks with some rebound first.

However, I'm really struggling to actually close the shock with the oil in it.
It becomes so oily and slippery when I put on the bladder that I have absolutely no grip when I try to screw on the shock cap.
Also, when I try to screw it on it never sits flat, so I'm really afraid that I will damage the thread on the shock housing....
I have built Xray shocks, brandless shocks, TRF shocks, all were really easy, but I've been trying for around 2hrs and not managed to close a single one yet.......
Anyone have any tips to make it a bit easier?
Btw, I haven't drilled the shock caps yet as I would like to try the shocks with some rebound first.
#122
Tech Apprentice

Yeah, just went at it for another hour and I managed to get 2 of them together, with gloves on to keep some grip on the shock when screwing the cap.
But with how much force you have to apply to close the shock, it's just difficult to get the same rebound on both sides...
To be honest at this point I'm thinking of writing a message to Yokomo to ask for replacement parts, as you are correct, it's also tough to get the ballhead-cup flat in the alu retainer, even when trying to swap around the cups and retainers to find the best fit...
Very dissapointed with this to be honest..
But with how much force you have to apply to close the shock, it's just difficult to get the same rebound on both sides...
To be honest at this point I'm thinking of writing a message to Yokomo to ask for replacement parts, as you are correct, it's also tough to get the ballhead-cup flat in the alu retainer, even when trying to swap around the cups and retainers to find the best fit...
Very dissapointed with this to be honest..
#123
Tech Adept

Yeah, just went at it for another hour and I managed to get 2 of them together, with gloves on to keep some grip on the shock when screwing the cap.
But with how much force you have to apply to close the shock, it's just difficult to get the same rebound on both sides...
To be honest at this point I'm thinking of writing a message to Yokomo to ask for replacement parts, as you are correct, it's also tough to get the ballhead-cup flat in the alu retainer, even when trying to swap around the cups and retainers to find the best fit...
Very dissapointed with this to be honest..
But with how much force you have to apply to close the shock, it's just difficult to get the same rebound on both sides...
To be honest at this point I'm thinking of writing a message to Yokomo to ask for replacement parts, as you are correct, it's also tough to get the ballhead-cup flat in the alu retainer, even when trying to swap around the cups and retainers to find the best fit...
Very dissapointed with this to be honest..
#124
Tech Apprentice

Thanks, I'll give that a shot, I guess! I did e-mail them, mostly just to inform them we are having issues with the Shock Cap (B12-S6) and the Upper Cap (B12-S4C1) fitting properly.
Hopefully they give us some guidance on how to improve this, or they release a new shock cap with better tolerances...
The entire build went together so smoothly, and the fit and finish was so good that I wasn't expecting to have such a nightmare assembling the shocks!
Cheers for the guidance BKUK, and if there are any others that have these issues, please let us know, and perhaps what you did to resolve it!
Hopefully they give us some guidance on how to improve this, or they release a new shock cap with better tolerances...
The entire build went together so smoothly, and the fit and finish was so good that I wasn't expecting to have such a nightmare assembling the shocks!
Cheers for the guidance BKUK, and if there are any others that have these issues, please let us know, and perhaps what you did to resolve it!
#125
Tech Apprentice

I did it!!
First I made a 11.5mm hole, where the shock cap can fit in:

Then I put it in and pressed hard with pliers:

Result, perfectly flat assembly!
First I made a 11.5mm hole, where the shock cap can fit in:

Then I put it in and pressed hard with pliers:

Result, perfectly flat assembly!

#126
Tech Apprentice

Does anyone here also run 4.5 FDR?
Normally I ran 97/42@64DP, that doesn't fit at all, 90/38@64DP barely fits with 0 play, so that also kinda sucks..
I can go down to 71/32@64DP, but those seem hard to find.
Normally I ran 97/42@64DP, that doesn't fit at all, 90/38@64DP barely fits with 0 play, so that also kinda sucks..
I can go down to 71/32@64DP, but those seem hard to find.
#128
Tech Apprentice

13.5T ORCA Blitreme V2 with the ORCA Blinky Pro, 4.5FDR is the lowest we can go at my local track, so I'd like to be as close to that as possible!