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Old 04-20-2006, 10:42 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Let me take a turn here in this thread for a bit, (punny punny )

How does a chipped diamond bit cut differently than a perfectly new diamond bit? I realise under magnification you can see the chip, but if the chip has a constant shape, won't it continue to cut at a consistant depth unless it chips more during the process of a single pass? I believe I have read on here that a chipped diamond bit will cut out of round and you wont be able to tell because the finish will look the same as if it weren't chipped. That just doesn't see right to me. Can anyone explain?

No matter the shape of the cutting tool, if that tool is held at a constant distance from the surface being turned, it will cut perfectly. How anyone thinks that it would be out of round is beyond me.

The main problem being that the RC world is full of armchair pseudo-engineers who want to sell products to the intellectually lazy hobbiest.

That leads to absurd myths like "a chipped bit will cut out of round."
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Old 04-20-2006, 10:52 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by JamesArluck
Hey Joey,

I bought my Twister lathe with a diamond bit USED back around 1993. The guy I bought it from had it for I don't know how many years before he sold it to me. Long story short, 13 years and hundreds of motors later and i'm STILL on the same diamond bit. So with proper care and setup, I think the answer to your question is "forever"

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Old 04-20-2006, 11:10 PM   #33
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Everyone talks about voltage to cut at. But not everyone has the same lathe motor. What's a good rpm to cut a comm?
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:34 PM   #34
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asuming you've got a 55 turn slave....how many volts or cells would be best?
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:49 AM   #35
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I'm sorry if I skipped forward, and didn't look, but if nobody else asked....Please ask this gentleman if there is any REAL reason to use a diamond bit over a carbide bit. I have been told over the years that a diamond bit is much better, but I have trouble believing that. A properly sharpened bit is a properly sharpened bit, and both bits are made of MUCH harder material than the copper comm. I know that diamond will potentially keep a sharp edge longer but geez at what cost! If something goes wrong there goes a $95 diamond bit that costs almost that much to have re-sharpened.
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:57 AM   #36
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D_AMES

The tip alignment tip is awesome. I have an old Twister lathe that I am going to use that trick on. Once again VERY cool!
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Old 04-21-2006, 01:06 AM   #37
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Diamond bits do stay sharper longer. You can find diamond bits for under $70 if you look... there is a RC shop selling on EBay, I think I paid in the $50 range and it is still cutting fine after a year. The last one I had sharpened (lapped) cost me $27.
But they are not necessary as a carbide will do fine
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Old 04-21-2006, 01:09 AM   #38
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I think last time I looked at an industrial supply site I found brand new sharp carbide bits for something like $5 each. Hard to beat!
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Old 04-21-2006, 01:49 AM   #39
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There is a place in ohio that relaps diamond bits.. I know my buddy has had 3 or 4 done in the past.. only charged 20 buks a pop.. work like new to..

Big Jim always said he prefered carbide bits.. Diamond tho very durable is actually a worse material then carbide for cutting.. Diamond gives a shiny finish, which makes people think the cut better..
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Old 04-21-2006, 04:54 AM   #40
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Some one said you want to set your bit at center of comm or LOWER... I really think he is incorrect. I was always told you want your bit .002-.005 HIGHER than the cutting surface... think about the shape of the comm, and where the cutting edge would be if it were lower than center...


also... i run my lathe off of my LRP pulsar(s) @2v.

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Old 04-21-2006, 05:41 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Billanti
Some one said you want to set your bit at center of comm or LOWER... I really think he is incorrect. I was always told you want your bit .002-.005 HIGHER than the cutting surface... think about the shape of the comm, and where the cutting edge would be if it were lower than center...


also... i run my lathe off of my LRP pulsar(s) @2v.

Keith
If your comm is rotating into the cutting tool you want it lower never higher.
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Old 04-21-2006, 05:46 AM   #42
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I run my Orion, with carbide.Ive done over 175 cuts to be honest and it still cuts them like a champ.I use a really "wet" sharpie for lube.I also run it with a old stock motor at 2.5V.....I try to take no more them .003 at a time.It just flakes off and gets allll over so I guess im doing it right.I seen a guy cut one the other day with a Auto lathe with a Hudy Diamond bit and it seems to be way diffrent.It kinda just built up on the backside of the bit.He would stop it and sorta wipe the copper resin off lol.Alot cleaner but I dunno..
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:46 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
If your comm is rotating into the cutting tool you want it lower never higher.
My arm spins away from me. my cutting edge is on the bottom of the bit.. my blade should be higher than the center. If it were lower, you wouldnt be hitting the face of the cutting surface.

seems logical to me
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:03 AM   #44
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On our lathes the bit should be higher. Our lathes are inverted from a standard machinist setup, which is why they specify the bit should be lower. They have the top of the piece spinning toward the bit with the cutting surface of the bit facing up.
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:06 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Smash
On our lathes the bit should be higher. Our lathes are inverted from a standard machinist setup, which is why they specify the bit should be lower. They have the top of the piece spinning toward the bit with the cutting surface of the bit facing up.

Makes sense. If the arm were spinning toward me, and my cutting surface was on the top side of the bit... i would set it up lower...
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