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Tamiya TB Evo 8

Old 07-14-2023, 03:40 PM
  #241  
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Old 07-14-2023, 05:24 PM
  #242  
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I struggle with on throttle traction on asphalt for a couple of race days running VTA. I went with lighter weight oil in the shocks and diff took some shims out from the uprights, changed pills all around to center, put 3deg of toe and added additional droop front and rear I believe 5.4F 4.8R based on the suggestions I got here and the car was really good after that. I’m not a proficient driver so I tend to drive hard with the throttle and throw the car into the corners and it had tons of traction.
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Old 07-21-2023, 05:36 PM
  #243  
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Had a head on crash last night when the other car accidentally jumped the divider. It would easily be a 100kph / 60mph crash. The rim was completely destroyed, but the only damage on the car was a snapped lower arm.

However I have been having issue with the drive shaft blade, the front ones keep breaking. I am only running 21.5t so no excessive torque or speed. I have also put new drive cup on and it has not helped. Any idea why this is happening? Also apart from the Tamiya, are there any manufacturer that makes a 4.5mm blade?

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Old 07-22-2023, 05:35 AM
  #244  
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I just run 419 steel outdrives and have the shafts straight into the outdrive.

Gave up with the plastic caps along time ago. My mate had similar issues with his 420 so he also bought a 419 spool and steel outdrives.

So much more reliable and I'm 6 months in now, racing every week and they are showing very little signs of wear.
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Old 07-22-2023, 05:38 AM
  #245  
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https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spare...nt-direct-cup/
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Old 07-23-2023, 01:24 AM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by hipwell
Evening mate. Just got back from indoor racing myself and had a much better night, back in front motor config.

Grip rolling is back now it's warmer inside and the grip is up, I've tried eveerything, High roll centres, low roll centres, loads of droop, not much droop, stiffening brace for the top deck, I just don't understand it either.

But, it's still rapid, i came from a 419xr with mid motor and 420 suspension and still every week I'm a lap up on the guys I was half a lap up on with my 419. But the evo is just so difficult to drive, it's so twitchy and setup changes just don't seem to make any difference.

I think if you can handle it, she's fast, Ive had to completely alter how I enter corners to avoid traction rolling, and when I do I can put some amazing laps together.

I measure droop with a flat stepped right height gauge with the chassis flat on the board, flat bit of the gauge directly under the wishbone touching the plastic, but before the screw (which protrudes lower than the wishbone)

I'll post a pic tomorrow of how I do it.

But while we're on droop, tonight I wanted to try less droop on the front (higher number on the gauge) as my car was pushing too much on power so was hoping this would keep a bit more weight on the front on power, it worked, but, on the second corner the car flipped as I wasn't expecting it. So I settled on 5.5 on the front and 5 on the rear, using my method.

I'm just not sure how I feel about the car now, I love it, it's different, but I just can't help but feel I as a driver have got more potential than the car.

I'll keep at it until a 421 comes out then I might put the evo on the shelf lol.
Thanks. I have not been able to go back on track yet, but I was screwing around with the droop settings and noticed that especially at the rear I couldn't go any lower than 4.8 mm – otherwise the droop screw would just hang midair between the suspension arm and the chassis. Rebuilding the dampers exactly as the manual suggested did not change anything. Now I have been switching the V2-7 parts that are screwed onto the piston rod with the V2-2 parts which are slightly longer, and voilá – I can increase the droop and the screw will properly touch the chassis. This should give me much more room to experiment for the next practice session.
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Old 07-23-2023, 02:22 AM
  #247  
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Yeh I found at kit setting I was bound by the length of the shock.

I just wound the bottom shock ball joint off a couple of turns.

Mine was flying again on Friday, 3rd in the A and no grip rolling.

The thing has just got so much steering, its almost impossible to create a setup in which it pushes into and during the corners
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Old 07-28-2023, 02:09 PM
  #248  
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Managed to hit the track today, the weather decided I should be running indoors but that's where I have the most experience with this car anyway.
Since the last time I was running on carpet I reduced the roll center (as suggested by hipwell ) and with significantly more droop on the rear – and the car was handling very well. No traction rolling at all, and I was able to attack the chicanes with much more speed. Unfortunately I have no times to compare, as the transponder tracking was still set up outdoors, but just from juding the feeling of the car and it's drivability it was much improved compared to my last outing indoors months ago.
Currently running 5.4mm droop front and 4.0 (!) in the rear, Tamiya black springs in the front and red in the rear (rear I use the most upright shock position at the moment as it gives me much more ability to tackle the chicane with lots of load changes). Otherwise pretty standard settings (2° camber all around, 1° toe in front, 2° in rear, ride height 5.0 / 5.2 mm).
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Old 07-28-2023, 02:37 PM
  #249  
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Brilliant, hope it works for you. I run my rear droop at 5.

Just got back from carpet racing, managed to get 2nd in the A against some very good drivers. I just keep getting more out of this thing every week now.

I tried new front springs, xray 2.5-2.8 with xray 2.6 on the rear, it was so good. Didnt roll once and I could aggressively attack the corners with confidence it wasn't going to roll.

2 weeks off for me now, 3 day car show next weekend watching drag racing.
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Old 07-28-2023, 03:11 PM
  #250  
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Good to hear! I had progressive springs in the car at some point but it just felt not good at our track. In some corners the car was changing behaviour mid-corner, and none of the drivers here run progressive springs anymore – all linear. There is a very tricky chicane with 3 load changes throughout it and running linear springs just makes the car more predictable.
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Old 07-29-2023, 11:39 PM
  #251  
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Both my front blades gave out during a shakedown. I guess after 13 packs on 17.5 it was bound to happen. Thanks for the link it actually got me up and running for tomorrow. Have you had the blades go out in the rear yet?
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Old 07-30-2023, 04:26 AM
  #252  
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Nope, my rear blades and outdrives are still the originals and look like new. It's just the fronts which are useless, stick the 419 steel ones in and you'll never have to worry about it again.

I run 13.5 blinky and after 7 months they are still going strong
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Old 08-02-2023, 05:56 AM
  #253  
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Default Gearing for 25.5TC

What gearing are sweet spot for 25.5TC?
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Old 08-02-2023, 09:27 AM
  #254  
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25.5? That's unheard of over here, must be slow as hell?

For 13.5 I run 5.0, and 17.5 run 4.6, sorry cant help with 25.5.
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Old 08-02-2023, 01:29 PM
  #255  
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Thank You. That is good reference.
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