1468LikesGT12-RT
01-17-2023, 06:45 PM
#496
Are you able to skim the sjt rubber tires with a standard truer or do you need the specific one made by sjt? Follow up question, does anyone know of an online store that has the tires in stock at the moment? I'd previously ordered them from eamotorsports but they're out of stock.
Thank you
Thank you
01-17-2023, 07:48 PM
#498
Are you able to skim the sjt rubber tires with a standard truer or do you need the specific one made by sjt? Follow up question, does anyone know of an online store that has the tires in stock at the moment? I'd previously ordered them from eamotorsports but they're out of stock.
Thank you
Thank you
01-17-2023, 09:36 PM
#499
I hear you, I've gotten quite a few race days on them and would simply like to even them out.
01-18-2023, 04:03 AM
#500
The dremel sanding drum bit definitely provides a nicer finish, buts its not absolutely necessary.
Keep in mind that the above mentioned coning can largely be prevented by properly setting camber to compensate.
I'm still using the sets I bought last year! I have 2 that I constantly rotate between race days - I've NEVER had foam sets last this long.
Last edited by simple; 01-18-2023 at 04:17 AM.
01-18-2023, 04:14 AM
#501
What happened a little over a year ago was guys at big races when the bite got high, started skimming the tires and gained speed. I found that you really don't need to do that on the truer (unless you are evening out the wear or out of round). Just take a Dremel with the nylon brush and at a high angle scrub the tire still on the car. Remove the pinion for the rear. You will see the tire lighten in color with just a light scrub. This will free up the car in the high bite conditions. My secret is no more. Lol
I let everyone know my trick because truing is being done. It is against my feelings about the use of the tires but the truing for speed is being done. That is why you see the new "one set" rule at the majors. Can't regulate it easily.
I let everyone know my trick because truing is being done. It is against my feelings about the use of the tires but the truing for speed is being done. That is why you see the new "one set" rule at the majors. Can't regulate it easily.
Last edited by old_dude; 01-18-2023 at 04:32 AM.
01-18-2023, 08:01 PM
#503
Not exactly. If amp draw is the same (in a wind and brand) there is a very good chance that the lower Kv motor is better. It is a pretty good indication of a motor with more torque. That is what I have found in testing. If you check the on track RPM curves you will find that you work a electric motor in it's torque band. Very few actually come close to peak RPM and actually your average RPM will be close to 50% of peak. That 50% of peak RPM is very close to peak power by the way. In blinky the motor develops peak torque at 0 rpm and it falls almost linearly to near zero at peak rpm. As you advance the timing the torque generated in the lower rpm range is reduced and that is where your motor is typically at on the track. That is why turbo and boost help as they shift the torque curve dynamically (same as a internal combustion engine by the way).
Kv means something but not as much as you might think. Seeing the torque and power curves vs amp draw is the best information. I literally test a motor at different timing points until I see a change in the torque curve vs amp draw. That you can't see on a motor checker.
Kv means something but not as much as you might think. Seeing the torque and power curves vs amp draw is the best information. I literally test a motor at different timing points until I see a change in the torque curve vs amp draw. That you can't see on a motor checker.
01-19-2023, 05:06 AM
#504
That is because the motor is under load which causes the amp draw. Accelerating the car is overcoming the inertial load of it. The flywheel dyno simulates that load, Initial amp draws on the dyno for a 17.5 are well over 50 @ 5v. You need a good power supply or a battery for good data.
01-19-2023, 08:25 PM
#505
That is because the motor is under load which causes the amp draw. Accelerating the car is overcoming the inertial load of it. The flywheel dyno simulates that load, Initial amp draws on the dyno for a 17.5 are well over 50 @ 5v. You need a good power supply or a battery for good data.
