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3racing Cero Ultra V1 & V2

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3racing Cero Ultra V1 & V2

Old 06-17-2024, 04:38 AM
  #1021  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
Itís back
What happened to it? I was looking for it yesterday and nothing!
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Old 06-17-2024, 04:43 AM
  #1022  
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So I had a original Ace and the new 2.0. I got the aluminum chassis for the 2.0 and really liked the change from the graphite. Car was much more consistent (black carpet). So I did a little math and realized that I could convert the Ace to the 2.0 fairly reasonably.
The parts needed.
Chassis.
2 front and 2 rear lower arms
upper deck or decks if split
belts.
rear body mount.
That is it.
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Old 06-17-2024, 04:53 AM
  #1023  
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Originally Posted by woofenstein
Interesting, never heard of this method I'll give it a shot.

What is a good starting point on this car?
I am usually at +2 on the front and +3 on the rear. By that I set my ride height at 5.5 and then to get my droop starting point I put the gage under the chassis at 7.5 on the front and 8.5 on the rear to set the droop. Pay attention to the upper arms as you go. When you get close on the tire feel, gently lift the car up off the gage. If the arm moves then you have more than you want. Adjust until the arms just quit moving on the lift.
The next step is to be sure that they come off the ground equally. Take a long thin tool (one of your hex wrenches) And pick the car up at the center with it. until the first tire lifts off the ground. If you are lucky both come off at the same time. If they don't then choose to either add to the one lifting or reduce to the one that didn't.
Note: Don't set droop until the car is balanced on the cross and side weight.
The order is ride height and corner weights first (that is a back and forth) and then the droop.
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Old 06-17-2024, 10:03 AM
  #1024  
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I think you need the shorter (345T) belts?
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Old 06-17-2024, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by alb
I think you need the shorter (345T) belts?
Correct. 2 of them. The Ace 5-5 uses 351T. That lets you know how much closer they moved the diffs.
I did have belts on the list.
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Old 06-20-2024, 09:41 AM
  #1026  
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Originally Posted by old_dude
So I had a original Ace and the new 2.0. I got the aluminum chassis for the 2.0 and really liked the change from the graphite. Car was much more consistent (black carpet). So I did a little math and realized that I could convert the Ace to the 2.0 fairly reasonably.
The parts needed.
Chassis.
2 front and 2 rear lower arms
upper deck or decks if split
belts.
rear body mount.
That is it.
can u get that rear body mount by itself or do u need to get the whole kit? i dremeled mine and spaced it up but it still hits the spring on full compression
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Old 06-20-2024, 11:26 AM
  #1027  
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Originally Posted by 2dialed
can u get that rear body mount by itself or do u need to get the whole kit? I Dremeled mine and spaced it up but it still hits the spring on full compression
You can get the rear plate separate. I actually copied mt 2.0 out of Kydex that I had laying around.
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Old 06-20-2024, 12:15 PM
  #1028  
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i can only find one for the sport and one for the cero nothing for the v2
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Old 07-09-2024, 07:14 PM
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Looking for others opinion. I has a Cero Sport Matte 55 which I biffed it into concrete curbing while parking lot racing. The front a-arm inner screw tore clean through the chassis. I about to order a replacement chassis and I'm wondering should I order the CF replacement or trying the fiberglass version to save some money, and I've read the fiberglass chassis could be better for low grip tracks. Which chassis would you guys order?
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Old 07-10-2024, 03:37 AM
  #1030  
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Default High bite 21.5 setup for v2-aluminum chassis

Rebuilding spare 21.5 car for winter. Have the new 3 racing aluminum chassis and looking for a good base setup for high bite black carpet. Thanks in advance
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Old 07-11-2024, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Hyperion702
Looking for others opinion. I has a Cero Sport Matte 55 which I biffed it into concrete curbing while parking lot racing. The front a-arm inner screw tore clean through the chassis. I about to order a replacement chassis and I'm wondering should I order the CF replacement or trying the fiberglass version to save some money, and I've read the fiberglass chassis could be better for low grip tracks. Which chassis would you guys order?
In my opinion, the fiberglass chassis is stiffer than the carbon fiber chassis and produces less flex.
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Old 07-11-2024, 05:56 PM
  #1032  
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Default V2 setuo

Originally Posted by Isaac
I have been running on carpet with no shims and it's a totally different car in a good way.

looking for a high bite indoor carpet setup for my v2 i am rebuilding
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Old 07-12-2024, 07:49 AM
  #1033  
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Find a company that makes an aluminum chassis for the V2.
I ran no shims under the arms on my V1 Ultra Ace but I would start with the stock shims under the arms per the manual for the V2.
Two degrees of negative camber at all corners. Too twitchy try 1 degree in the front.
Front upper camber links - try 2 mm shims outer and inner to start.
Rear upper camber links - I believe I had 2.5 mm outside and 2 on the inner side.
Ackerman, rear knuckles shims were stock for me.
Front toe was 1 degree out and rear toe was negative 2 degrees.
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Old 07-12-2024, 08:23 AM
  #1034  
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Originally Posted by Hyperion702
Looking for others opinion. I has a Cero Sport Matte 55 which I biffed it into concrete curbing while parking lot racing. The front a-arm inner screw tore clean through the chassis. I about to order a replacement chassis and I'm wondering should I order the CF replacement or trying the fiberglass version to save some money, and I've read the fiberglass chassis could be better for low grip tracks. Which chassis would you guys order?
I have the Cero Sport 64, while not the same chassis, I run the fiberglass one that it came with. We run on mid~high grip asphalt in a parking lot. I think it performs well against "real" (high dollar) touring cars. Although I do have some upgrades on it so I can no longer tell people they just lost to a $100 fiberglass TC
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Old 07-12-2024, 01:02 PM
  #1035  
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Thank you. I have the new 3 raxing alum chassis.

Originally Posted by Isaac
Find a company that makes an aluminum chassis for the V2.
I ran no shims under the arms on my V1 Ultra Ace but I would start with the stock shims under the arms per the manual for the V2.
Two degrees of negative camber at all corners. Too twitchy try 1 degree in the front.
Front upper camber links - try 2 mm shims outer and inner to start.
Rear upper camber links - I believe I had 2.5 mm outside and 2 on the inner side.
Ackerman, rear knuckles shims were stock for me.
Front toe was 1 degree out and rear toe was negative 2 degrees.
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