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3racing Cero Ultra 2022

Old 02-12-2024, 06:32 AM
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Guys: After seeing the setup sheet for the VTA winning Cero at the Hudy race (Terryl Bowen, congrats), I noted the roll center setting. I talked with our local TC setup gurus and we took some measurements. It looks like the Cero with its kit 2mm spacers under the lower arm pivots is much higher than other cars (X-Ray and Awesomatix). So we experimented with lowering those pivots. All I can say is after working on the change it made the car very smooth. It is a PIA to do without taking off everything above them put not impossible. You also need 6mm long screws for the pivots to replace the 8mm long ones that are kit. I am running VTA with the car and finished second overall at the recent NORCAR/Austintown Winter Classic. I ran first or second in 5 of the six rounds with my Ultra Ace.
I suggest that you try it.
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Old 02-12-2024, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
Guys: After seeing the setup sheet for the VTA winning Cero at the Hudy race (Terryl Bowen, congrats), I noted the roll center setting. I talked with our local TC setup gurus and we took some measurements. It looks like the Cero with its kit 2mm spacers under the lower arm pivots is much higher than other cars (X-Ray and Awesomatix). So we experimented with lowering those pivots. All I can say is after working on the change it made the car very smooth. It is a PIA to do without taking off everything above them put not impossible. You also need 6mm long screws for the pivots to replace the 8mm long ones that are kit. I am running VTA with the car and finished second overall at the recent NORCAR/Austintown Winter Classic. I ran first or second in 5 of the six rounds with my Ultra Ace.
I suggest that you try it.
So how many MM were the spacers if any did you use under the pivot points?
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Old 02-12-2024, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Isaac
So how many MM were the spacers if any did you use under the pivot points?
I don't use the shims under the pivot balls. Lower that roll center and let her lean through the corners
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Old 02-12-2024, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
Guys: After seeing the setup sheet for the VTA winning Cero at the Hudy race (Terryl Bowen, congrats), I noted the roll center setting. I talked with our local TC setup gurus and we took some measurements. It looks like the Cero with its kit 2mm spacers under the lower arm pivots is much higher than other cars (X-Ray and Awesomatix). So we experimented with lowering those pivots. All I can say is after working on the change it made the car very smooth. It is a PIA to do without taking off everything above them put not impossible. You also need 6mm long screws for the pivots to replace the 8mm long ones that are kit. I am running VTA with the car and finished second overall at the recent NORCAR/Austintown Winter Classic. I ran first or second in 5 of the six rounds with my Ultra Ace.
I suggest that you try it.
Thanks! People don't like my setup, it works for me. Everyone is different, I've found another 2 tenths in the car, when I can get more VTA time and a few more things ironed out I'll update my setup sheet.

The easiest place to find the 6mm screws is swap the screws from the bulkhead and put the 8mm screws from the pivot's back in the bulkhead. You get more meat in the critical parts and you get the shorter screws where you need them.
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Old 02-12-2024, 11:00 AM
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boy, an ACE v2 5/5 sounds good right about now.
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Old 02-12-2024, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by alb
boy, an ACE v2 5/5 sounds good right about now.

it would be sold out pretty quickly
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Old 02-13-2024, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Isaac
So how many MM were the spacers if any did you use under the pivot points?
The only shims I have under any pivots top or bottom is the lower front arm, front inner pivot. I added 1 mm ther to kill the entry a littl bit for me. The car was very agressive on entry and I needed it calned just a bit. According to the Hudy book the backward rake is anti-dive but some say it is the opposite. I will go with Hudy.
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Last edited by old_dude; 02-14-2024 at 04:48 AM. Reason: Added lower
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Old 02-13-2024, 03:10 PM
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Here is a important mistake in the manual.
All of the flat head screws called out in the manual have their length stated "WRONG": the under chassis screws are shown as 3mm x 6mm Lg. The are actually 8mm Lg. A flat head screws length is from the top of the head to the end or its overall length. All other head configurations are the length from the under side of the head.
I missed it but another racer pointed it out. I should have known it. .
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Old 02-14-2024, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
Here is a important mistake in the manual.
All of the flat head screws called out in the manual have their length stated "WRONG": the under chassis screws are shown as 3mm x 6mm Lg. The are actually 8mm Lg. A flat head screws length is from the top of the head to the end or its overall length. All other head configurations are the length from the under side of the head.
I missed it but another racer pointed it out. I should have known it. .
Also, on the V2, you need to run 2mm of ARS washers at most or you will LOSE TOE on compression of the rear. 2mm is essentially static toe. The original manual called for like 6mm and it wasn't updated for the V2 but the V2 has caster in the rear, which sweeps the steering arm on the hub DOWN closer to where the toe link hooks up, so 6mm is totally wrong. Gotta set that setting based on a setup station, always. We might need to start putting washers under the bulkhead to get some toe-gain settings.
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Old 02-14-2024, 02:31 PM
  #865  
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Does anyone make a velcro battery strap for the Cero Ultra or know of one that fits?
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Old 02-14-2024, 07:25 PM
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Do any of you guys ca glue the chassis or arms
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Old 02-14-2024, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hotrod306
Do any of you guys ca glue the chassis or arms
nope never have
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Old 02-15-2024, 01:59 PM
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Does anyone have any tips for getting the shocks to not have air in them? I've used a ton of green stuff on the cartridge, tried multiple times to seal them up, but every time cycling the shock introduces a ton of air :/
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Old 02-15-2024, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by munchagepeopl
Does anyone have any tips for getting the shocks to not have air in them? I've used a ton of green stuff on the cartridge, tried multiple times to seal them up, but every time cycling the shock introduces a ton of air :/
Maybe try less "green stuff"? You only need a small amount on the o-ring. Be sure and fill the shock body enough so that when you put the diaphragm on it displaces some oil...
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Old 02-15-2024, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Robio
Maybe try less "green stuff"? You only need a small amount on the o-ring. Be sure and fill the shock body enough so that when you put the diaphragm on it displaces some oil...
I'm definitely displacing oil when I put the diaphragm on, and I'm pretty sure it's the lower seal that's leaking air, hence the green stuff. The ceramic grease they include (and show in the manual) is nice and thick so I will try that in the morning, but green stuff has never failed me in the 10+ sets of crawler shocks I've used it on which is why I thought it would do good here..
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