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CK25AR 1/12th car kit from Team CRC

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CK25AR 1/12th car kit from Team CRC

Old 11-22-2021, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by vafactor
Iím unable to load and display a full setup sheet here, but Iíll try to describe my new carís first outing setup: In an effort to copy the very heavy dampening that Andrew Knappís setup sheets usually indicate, I ran my new AR car with 60K lube on the kingpins and in the tubes and with 50wt oil in the shock. Doing so did seem to make the new car very stable and tossable. I went with Xenon 50/52 progressive front springs and started the day with just 1 shim under the new rear center pivot mounts. Everything else was pretty much box stock. The new car was remarkably good and surprisingly easy to drive. Maybe too easy. So after holding TQ after round 1, I added a second shim under the center pivots in hopes of adding a bit more steering aggression. It did. The car was great thru the rest of qualifying. But for the main the traction had come up just enough that I had to be extra careful to avoid any unforced errors. I tapped a couple of times but thankfully avoided making any big costly errors, so the new car was still able to win the main with relative ease. Next time out Iíll go back to just one shim under the rear center pivots and try adding extra steering up front rather than by raising the center pivot. After the race, the 60K still felt good on the kingpins but the tubes were feeling perhaps too stiff in my hands. So next time out Iíll back off to 30K in the tubes and maybe the kingpins too. Your results may vary. I prefer a very smooth, docile, and easy to drive car, and the new low center pivot seems to plant the rear better than the old car. The tried and true CRC front end provides plenty of options for adding more steering aggression, so thatís where Iíll focus my attention next time out. David, are you happy now?
Very happy now, Perry! Thanks for taking my ribbing so well. Hope you find the secret to posting the setup sheet. Maybe it has to do with file size since there is a limit on this site. This car requires a slightly different sheet than the old car. The one thing I didn't put on my sheet is that I used all three shims under the pivot. I am looking to raise it one more shim for the track in Bowling Green, OH. I don't get the rotation needed on that track.
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Old 11-23-2021, 04:57 AM
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are ya,ll taking out the shims just on the chassis or both the rear pod and chassis?
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Old 11-23-2021, 09:35 AM
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Just had to order a new servo since I intentionally broke the tabs on one to test out something. No big worries tho. Going to turn my old 17.5 chassis into my new mod car and try to get back to wheeling mod 12th so I can try that in a big race down the road
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Old 11-23-2021, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by phatboislim
Just had to order a new servo since I intentionally broke the tabs on one to test out something. No big worries tho. Going to turn my old 17.5 chassis into my new mod car and try to get back to wheeling mod 12th so I can try that in a big race down the road
Might as well order a housing to save the old servo with the broken tabs. Typically pretty cheap.
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Old 11-23-2021, 10:43 AM
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hi just wondering if you have to add weight to new ck25ar car. Where I race Austintown hobby , I think you must be at 350 grams. Also where is the best place to put it? Thanks take care
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Old 11-23-2021, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Mel19
hi just wondering if you have to add weight to new ck25ar car. Where I race Austintown hobby , I think you must be at 350 grams. Also where is the best place to put it? Thanks take care
There is no way anyone is getting a ready-to-race 1/12th scale to 350 grams. 730 grams is the ROAR minimum for GTP 1/12th scale. CRC's are very light. Depending on which motor, battery, servo, ESC and body you run, you could find yourself well below that (but nowhere near 350). Add weight to balance the chassis left-to-right first. I prefer to keep ballast needed to make weight in the center of the car as much as possible.
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Old 11-23-2021, 12:57 PM
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I,am sorry brain fade I meant 750 g is the ck25ar that lighter than other 1/12 cars? I running gt12 rubber tires
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Old 11-23-2021, 04:14 PM
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If your club requires 750g, the challenge with the CK25AR will be finding enough places to add that much ballast. The CRC is easily the lightest of the current competitive offerings. Iíve got a custom brass plate under my battery just to reach our 730g minimum.
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Old 11-23-2021, 04:18 PM
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Sounds like a good time for a body weight rule, stop this ultra throw away nonsense.
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Old 11-23-2021, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mel19
I,am sorry brain fade I meant 750 g is the ck25ar that lighter than other 1/12 cars? I running gt12 rubber tires
build the car and mount your body and see. I know plenty of the CK25ís at 750 for GT12. You should be close
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Old 11-24-2021, 04:42 AM
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My CK25 AR is 754g with the side rails and a 7000 battery setup for GT12-R. The rubber tires are slightly heavier than foam. We also run a 50g body weight rule. My Akura is 54g ready to go. The chassis that comes in the kit is heavier than the standard CK25. Slightly thicker I believe and fewer cutouts.
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Old 11-24-2021, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Team CRC
Thanks for the input and the nice words. We are curious if the "modernized a bit" simply means the conversion to metric screws, or something else? Regarding the metric fasteners, is it simply a matter of not owning imperial tools?

The 1/12th scale market was pioneered by American companies like Jomac, MRP, Leisure, Parma, Associated and Delta. These early manufactures set the standards for 1/12th scale cars with imperial hardware, inch sized bearings, axles and wheels. Even modern 1/12th cars produced in Europe and Asia still carry imperial parts and sizes; a 1/8th front axle, the 1/4" rear axle and imperial wheel bearing sizes. While you are not alone in the metric hardware request, we find it interesting the number of racers that want metric hardware in a kit while still using a .050 or 1/16" hex wrench for a pinion gear.

As a American company and only American company remaining making onroad kits here in the USA, it seems un-traditional to forget the heavy American heritage in 1/12th scale racing. Any way... who knows what the future will bring, maybe we will make the switch to metric.

Thanks for the input.
It is not only with owning the tools, but also its harder to keep/ buy inch screws if I lost some on the track
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Old 11-24-2021, 01:38 PM
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I also remember seeing a mod crc being run, I believe by the crc team...where is the setup sheet for that?
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Old 11-24-2021, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fotko
It is not only with owning the tools, but also its harder to keep/ buy inch screws if I lost some on the track
I recommend fastener-express.com to order quality screws.
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Old 11-24-2021, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Team CRC
Thanks for the input and the nice words. We are curious if the "modernized a bit" simply means the conversion to metric screws, or something else? Regarding the metric fasteners, is it simply a matter of not owning imperial tools?

The 1/12th scale market was pioneered by American companies like Jomac, MRP, Leisure, Parma, Associated and Delta. These early manufactures set the standards for 1/12th scale cars with imperial hardware, inch sized bearings, axles and wheels. Even modern 1/12th cars produced in Europe and Asia still carry imperial parts and sizes; a 1/8th front axle, the 1/4" rear axle and imperial wheel bearing sizes. While you are not alone in the metric hardware request, we find it interesting the number of racers that want metric hardware in a kit while still using a .050 or 1/16" hex wrench for a pinion gear.

As a American company and only American company remaining making onroad kits here in the USA, it seems un-traditional to forget the heavy American heritage in 1/12th scale racing. Any way... who knows what the future will bring, maybe we will make the switch to metric.

Thanks for the input.
Honeslty I find the sliding pod way easier to setup than the Roche system...

In Europe pinion gear are using 1.5mm hex but I see you point, once you have a little bit stock and the correct tools, it is not a problem anymore. About the modernization I'm not so sure. This category exists for years and a lot of the experience we have is going to be totally useless with "modern" chassis: Take for instance the article of Cristian Tabush on traction-rolling. Most of the advices to prevent that are concerning the front, adding reactive caster, changing roll center, using long upper arms. It is working, but good luck to make it work on the latest Xray or Awesomatix.

I'm still using a CK25 for the moment but I'm not sure about the new pivot, what is the new feature? I've read it is about the roll center high, but isn't that something which was already possible with the old pivot system (which is working perfectly by the way)?
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