phatboislim

iTrader: (26)

I always ran .45 front/.50 rear, between red/blue associated center spring, 30wt oil in the shock, 10-30k on side tube, no higher than 3.5 RH, 2 shims to the front on 0 caster blocks, a sliver of front droop, and 1mn or less pod droop

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

You will find that 1/12 pan car setups are very individualistic. What works well for one driver often will not work for another, and that the details of the building of the car are difficult to convey in a setup sheet. Also tire prep is usually 50% of your overall setup and until you find a tire prep that works for you, tuning may be difficult.

In the 1/12 pan car forum there is a Wiki that has a basic tuning guide that some racers have claimed is quite useful. There is also discussion of tire prep and cutting. Good luck.

phatboislim

iTrader: (26)

Also doesn't hurt to give someone a good starting point

J.Gonzalez

iTrader: (16)

Honestly build it out of box and carefully and completely follow settings and build instruction and it perfect place to start. You do not need to reinvent the wheel.

Have someone show you how to cut and glue tires as that is way more critical than setup and really no good way to explain over internet.

Buckland

iTrader: (11)

Fabtek makes printed bumpers for both GTP and GT12:
https://www.fabtek-engineering.com/s...5r9pln1ay7dmhm

StockRc

iTrader: (8)

thank you

StockRc

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the info

Buckland

iTrader: (11)

Is the ck25 z-flex chassis compatible with the AR pivot (assuming I use the AR rear lower pod plate)? I have an LE kit I haven't built and would like to upgrade the pivot as easily as possible.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

All previous pivot ball chassis are compatible with the new AR pivot. The difference is in the pod lower plate.

You WILL need to take a file and remove maybe 1-2mm of material from the side you have the set screw that tensions the aluminum pivot around the ball stud, but that is a 5 minute task.

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

It would be great to get some more pictures and some of the thought process behind the new in-line chassis conversion that's coming soon? The original in-line worked well in high grip and the slower classes.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

In my limited experience the in-line chassis wasn't as big of a difference as people thought. It was still a 1/12 car, all of the usual rules still applied, if anything it took away steering in high grip situations by moving weight forward.

davidl

iTrader: (40)

Getting ready for the 1/12 inline car. Haven't run this configuration in a long time.

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

yes looking forward to seeing how this goes

davidl

iTrader: (40)

We did this once before with the Altered Ego. That morphed itself into the WC edition with the battery moved to cross-ways and then on to the CK25. I never liked the Altered Ego as it was presented. But putting the short Xti rear pod plate to it shortened the wheel base and stabilized the car. It was very nimble. Then went to the in-line battery and it was very cool. The WC followed and went back to the cross-ways battery and it was still super good. The CK25, well what can you say about that? It will be a challenge to get the equipment into this in-line car, but it might be just the ticket. We shall see.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

After seeing Dumper's two prototype inline cars perform nicely at 180's Winter Warrior race, I went home and set up my CK25AR with an inline battery, hoping for good results. The electronics is indeed a really tight fit and it will only work with very small componentry, but everything can be squeezed in there. Regrettably, I just didn't like the inline car's on-track feel so I put my trusty car all back to the usual transverse battery orientation with a setup very close to box stock.....just like I've run successfully for many years. Old dog, not good at learning new tricks I suppose.