BullFrog

iTrader: (4)

Just like he said works great!

superiorflints

This is going to be my first on-road build (other than a TT-01) and my first carbon chassis build. What tips, tricks, and gotchas can you share to help me with this build? Are there any build videos available to watch? Thanks in adavance!

sweems

The car assembles pretty easily. The only spots that I've seen problems with are the diff and front end. On the diff if you build it as a spool pay attention to the manual, the gear goes on the inside of the hub(I've seen it built backwards). The front end isn't really a problem but if you don't use the manual it can cause problems, CRC points out this detail but when you install part 3222 on page 7 it goes in at an angle not straight.

BullFrog

iTrader: (4)

Well the servo-Sanwa is great if you have a M17 radio. It can be programed but not by me. All my CRC cars now have that servo (GT12,. F1 and GT10). If you were in Fla I could help you. We mostly run asphalt down here.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Been doing very well with this car at our local track so replaced the spray bomb with my normal paint job. Love the Calandra Racing Concepts sticker on the side.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

Now that the new car has been in the hands of racers for a while and the Snowbirds are behind us, this would be a good time for a hearty community conversation about the effects of raising or lowering the new adjustable rear center pivot. So who runs how many of the little shim washers, and more importantly, to what effect???

davidl

iTrader: (40)

Crickets.

hollywood3705

iTrader: (8)

Any setups available yet?

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I've been running stock shimming and been winning at club racing. Haven't been motivated to change. We've got a healthy 12th scale class with a mix of xray, awesomatix, crc, and all three brands are essentially running the same times and coming down to consistency and some times traffic. We're like all so close week over week its not even funny. Eight minutes of trying to drive more perfect than the next guy. My current line of experimentation is how tall I can true my tires anti-chunking methods and still be competitive, lol. I'll try some RC changes in the future, I'm sure, but I'm literally book build 3.75mm ride height with 1mm pod droop and -.5 caster and a diff. It's just... so good like that I have a hard time messing with a good thing.

Wayne

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

Mine was really good right out of the box too although I began with just one shim at the rear center pivot. Since then I’ve also tried 2 and 3. Honestly, I’ve not noticed a huge difference, which is why I’m keen to discover what others have found when changing their rear roll center.

davidl

iTrader: (40)

Raise it up 4.5mm from the chassis.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

what does raising the rear pivot that far do to the car’s handling? I ask because it’s hard to deny the success that the A12s have been exhibiting. Their unusual pivot points are near the bottom of the chassis plate…..about as low as physically possible. So what’s the advantage of running the CK25AR’s pivot point higher? Not trying to be argumentative, just anxious to understand what makes the cars work.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

raising the center pivot up removes rear grip but makes the car more prone to spool induced spin outs

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Mike. Since I prefer a smoother more docile car that never “surprises”, sounds like I’ll be happier with a lower RC.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

this kit, like some others, just made it easier to shim up the pivot. its an old trick you can do on any link car. generally don't overlook the good will that a 0.5mm shim can do to help free up the rear of the car and pull it out of the track.