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Old 12-20-2002, 03:24 PM   #46
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Default Integy Xipp Mod lathe

Guy's;

What really sold me on the Xipp lathe was that it came with everything. Just open the box, charge the battery pack and cut. The Carbide "V" blocks are $40-50 seperately, but can be bought as an option with the lathe for about $15-20 more. The Bearings are fine as long as you put a drop of bushing oil on the sides to lube the Roller and Shaft. BTW, they're NOT Ball Bearings but Roller Bearings. A solid Roller on a Solid shaft. the reason that they wear out so fast is that most people never think to oil them. You will still need a drop of oil on the Armature Shaft with the Carbide "V" blocks to keep the shaft from wearing.

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One thing to consider between carbide and diamond bits, is that the diamond bit will last for around 70-100 cuts where as the carbide bit will be dull after around 15-20.
True if you don't break it on the first cut. Most people will.
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Old 12-20-2002, 04:12 PM   #47
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rcpigz - Integy sure does make it difficult. They have the X-Mod Perfect lathe and the X-Mod Super lathe. They're the same with different options. When I bought mine, it was $99. It was only called the X-Mod lathe and came with nothing but the battery switch and carbide bit.

fasterdanu - Believe me when I say that it will be a long, long, long time before motor manufacturers Orion, Reedy and Trinity let their cash cow motor businesses be replaced by brushless. Yes, they are getting more popular but anyone who buys a lathe will probably get their money's worth way before brushless becomes the "norm" and not just an option. Are brushless motors even legal with ROAR, IFMAR and NORRCA?

Cyclonus - A good diamond file (about $20) will keep a carbide tip cutting nicely for just as long, if not longer, than a diamond bit
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Old 12-20-2002, 05:37 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcpigz
unknown,
Boy do I understand the money thing...
Suggestion...Clean the motor often.On race day clean it after each heat. If you don't have a Comm Stick..get one. Use it at least once at the beginning of each race day. This changes if the track is really dirty. Basically, if there's a lot of grit and grime.....clean it.
I'm glad me and you are in the same boat with the money situation. After every run, I let the motor cool down a bit then I spray it with motor cleaner. After that, I let it sit so that the cleaner dries up and I add some bushing drops (Trinity Z-Lube I believe is the same) to make sure the bushings are going good on the next run.

I see you mentioned something about a "Comm Stick". I am going to guess at this and assume it is a little stick with some type of lube I apply right onto the comm...right? What company makes this?
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Old 12-20-2002, 05:59 PM   #49
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Nah its a little green stick thing that you run the comm with, and it will get rid of all the carbon that built up. It works fine, but isnt a substitute for a lathe.
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Old 12-20-2002, 05:59 PM   #50
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Default hellooo

does anyone know anything about brushless motors any experience
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:05 PM   #51
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how do I use the comm stick? I know its not a substitute for a lathe...but maybe I will get the money over christmas for a cheaper lathe
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:11 PM   #52
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in reply on how to use a comm stick
take off the brush springs then slip out the brushes the slot the comm stick in spin the armature then pull it out put the brushes and spings back in and your ready to roll.
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:18 PM   #53
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then won't i have to realign the brushes with the brush hood alignment tool?
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:21 PM   #54
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no if you are useing a stock ther is no problem bot your not actually unscrewing the endbell or anything only pulling the brushes out of their slots.
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:22 PM   #55
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see the pic
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:25 PM   #56
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better detail
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:29 PM   #57
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one thing is...I don't understand how the brush hood alignment tool works. Here is what it says on towerhobbies.com about the Parma tool:

This brush hood aligner aligns the brushes on motors 180 degrees apart from each other and 90-degrees to the commutator.

The reason I don't understand is because on my P2K2 Pro motor...I dont see where I would need to use this tool. There are two little "tunnel" type things where you insert the brushes and then put the springs on. I don't see where the brush hood alignment tool would come into effect here.



See where the brush goes into that "tunnel"?
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:35 PM   #58
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you answered my question before I coud post again...

so I dont need that tool for a stock motor. That explains it. Thanks a lot. I see why modified motors need it...they don't have those helpful "tunnels" (is that what they are called even?)
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:39 PM   #59
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Default ???????????

i'm sure that you wont need to use a brush alignment tool for a stock we only use them in mod bu not very much doesn't do that much because if you need to use a brush alignment tool every time you have a shithouse motor which the p2k s not so just use the comm stick but dont the the fiberglass comm sticks they littlt things with long white hairs they do your comm no good but use the solid greene colord ones there the good ones. hers a good pic on how ta do it
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:42 PM   #60
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One nice thing about the Cobra lathe is the two little screws that adjust to fit the comm shaft so you don't have to use spacers or a pinion. . .I really really like that.

btw - Pops was serious in his last post. . .just ignore anything he says regarding drills. .
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