Like Tree2214Likes

Xray X4

    Hide Wikipost
Old 09-12-2023, 09:53 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray X4
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: R Dodge
XRAY X4'22 Helpful tips & setups

Tips:

Installing the hex on the driveshaft - Make 100% sure you have the flat spot lined up on the axle with the cutout in the hex as shown in the manual. If you do not do this, it will make disassembly so much harder. The flat spot is there so you can fit a flathead screwdriver in between the shaft and the c-clip to pop it off when you want to remove the hex. Also, when removing the c-clip I would recommend pointing it down into your pit mat/towel so the clip does not go flying and disappear.

Assembling the upper arms - Make sure to grease the threads on the camber screw (302640). This will make assembly and camber adjustments much easier. Also, when adjusting camber you want to make sure you hold the upper arm so it does not twist while you turn the screw.

Droop - It is important to remove the shocks. All team setup sheets will show droop settings with shocks removed. Simply detaching them from the arm will do. This is a change from how we set droop in the past.

Setups:


**If the super mods on this forum were actually right, and handled things correctly, they would not have gone back and deleted all the posts to hide things

***And since they are in the deleting mood now, they might as well go ahead and just delete all the images of the setup sheet, as originally requested via private comms.

Print Wikipost

Old 05-11-2024, 01:45 AM
  #2401  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 23
Default

Originally Posted by Panther6834
Time for troubleshooting. But, first, do you know, with 100% certainty, that it's always happening to the exact same bearing location? In other words, is the 'good' bearing the exact same bearing that was initially installed...or, is it possible that it's happened to both bearings on that CVD (ie. "one" of the two bearings keeps failing, but you are not 100% certain it's the EXACT same bearing location). The only way to be 100% certain would be to 'mark' the good bearing and/or that side of the CVD, as well as that same outdrive, insert that bearing into that exact same outdrive, and then run the vehicle until another bearing failure, and see if it's the same bearing. If so, then repeat the process, except insert that bearing into the opposite outdrive, and see if it's the same bearing (again), or if it's the opposite bearing.

Obviously, the above is part of the overall troubleshooting...albeit, a very time-consuming method. As pointed out by others, it could be a number of different things. For long-term troubleshooting, I would still recommend following the above directions. However, at the same time, you should also incorporate several short-term troubleshooting steps. Check to make certain the axle, itself, isn't bent...even the most minute bend can cause this. As someone else pointed out, measure the width of the opening in the outdrives (BOTH outdrives), doing so at multiple locations, and compare the measurements of each outdrive against each other (ex. the width could be the same on both outdrives at the "fully seated" position, but could be different closer to the outer edge of the outdrives. It is possible that the side "eating" your bearings has an outdrive that is 'pinched'. Considering the opening on the BB outdrives is wider than the opening on the standard outdrives, it's safe to assume they could/would bend more easily. Also, check the outdrives, themselves. It is equally possible that one of the outdrive shafts (the section that goes into the differential) is bent, which would cause the outside section of the outdrive to have a slight "wobble" when the diff is rotated. Next thing to check would be the 'pins' holding the bearings, as it's possible one of the 'pins' is bent. Again, even the most minute bend could cause the problem. Try swapping the left/right CVDs, and see if the problem continues (which it probably will), and whether it continues to happen on the same side, or the opposite side (if the 'same' side, then the problem is with the outdrive and/or diff...if opposite side, then it's something related to the CVD).

As I was finishing typing everything above, two other possibilities came to mind - the lower bulkhead, and the adjustment ball bearing hub. It's worth checking those, as well. I won't go into what, specifically, to check, as there are several things...all of which I'm sure you should be able to figure out. The points is, you will need to check EVERYTHING related to the rear driveline, step-by-step, to find the cause of the problem. You could find it very quickly, as it could be the first thing you check...or, it could take weeks, and be the last thing you check. Best of luck to you, and hope you find/fix the problem.
Many thanks for this extensive answer ! To eliminate a possible defective bearing holder I had already changed it with the same result.
I'm not certain it's the same bearing each time. So I'll go with the suggested idea of marking.
I will also measure the outdrives. I'll keep you posted.
thank you once again.
Lonestar likes this.
moulip is offline  
Old 05-11-2024, 04:58 AM
  #2402  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 55
Default

Why does it matter if the part is really "warped" or cracked? I was just pointing out that the lower arms can possibly break too. I can post a picture of it later since people have gotten so obsessed with the manner it broke for some reason
Toat is offline  
Old 05-12-2024, 01:32 AM
  #2403  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,051
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Toat
Why does it matter if the part is really "warped" or cracked? I was just pointing out that the lower arms can possibly break too. I can post a picture of it later since people have gotten so obsessed with the manner it broke for some reason
Was thinking about something - could it just be "bent", maybe?

😁
Lonestar is offline  
Old 05-14-2024, 05:32 AM
  #2404  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 23
Default

Originally Posted by moulip
Many thanks for this extensive answer ! To eliminate a possible defective bearing holder I had already changed it with the same result.
I'm not certain it's the same bearing each time. So I'll go with the suggested idea of marking.
I will also measure the outdrives. I'll keep you posted.
thank you once again.
I have measured the outdrives on both ends with a caliper and nothing special to note. No bent shaft either.
I still don't know what is happening on this part of the car ! One thing which is strange is that it seems the bearing is destroyed suddenly?
I mean there are no signs of wear or anything during 10 runs and suddenly the next one it's completely destroyed.
moulip is offline  
Old 05-14-2024, 06:29 AM
  #2405  
Tech Adept
 
oldfool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 177
Default

How many times, in those ten runs, are you oiling the bearings?
oldfool is offline  
Old 05-14-2024, 06:53 AM
  #2406  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 23
Default

Originally Posted by oldfool
How many times, in those ten runs, are you oiling the bearings?
I don't oil them at the track. Only when I get home and perform after run maintenance.
But i doubt oiling is the issue since it always occurs in the same place.
moulip is offline  
Old 05-17-2024, 02:34 AM
  #2407  
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,177
Default

Originally Posted by moulip
I have measured the outdrives on both ends with a caliper and nothing special to note. No bent shaft either.
I still don't know what is happening on this part of the car ! One thing which is strange is that it seems the bearing is destroyed suddenly?
I mean there are no signs of wear or anything during 10 runs and suddenly the next one it's completely destroyed.
It is not uncommon for the bearing to get destroyed (missing balls) or damaged during a run. This usually happens when the wheel taps a side board on the track. I am not talking about grazing the wall. I am referring to either the back end of the car sliding and tapping the boards coming out of the corner or into the corner. Or it can be the front end when you understeer and go too deep into the corner and slide the whole side of the car and smack the wheel rims almost directly to the wall. The impact will send the force of the impact thru the wheel hex and cvd and damage the bearing.
Lonestar, gigaplex and Ggrant like this.
Dino_D is offline  
Old 05-20-2024, 10:23 PM
  #2408  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 23
Default

Originally Posted by Dino_D
It is not uncommon for the bearing to get destroyed (missing balls) or damaged during a run. This usually happens when the wheel taps a side board on the track. I am not talking about grazing the wall. I am referring to either the back end of the car sliding and tapping the boards coming out of the corner or into the corner. Or it can be the front end when you understeer and go too deep into the corner and slide the whole side of the car and smack the wheel rims almost directly to the wall. The impact will send the force of the impact thru the wheel hex and cvd and damage the bearing.
Thank you for this precise answer. That could be an explanation indeed but considering my home track layout, there is no turn which could make the car smack the rear left wheel the way you are describing it.
Recently I have made a full maintenance on the car by removing and reinstalling almost everything. I have made 2 track days since and until now, nothing is to be noted on the bearing. I'll keep monitoring it.
moulip is offline  
Old 05-24-2024, 08:20 PM
  #2409  
Tech Elite
 
dameetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Sky
Posts: 2,568
Default

Has anyone tried any cheaper aftermarket 3rd party carbon chassis? Which brand and is it any good? Found a crack on my X4 ‘23 (spare car). Don’t want to spend a fortune replacing it with Xray chassis.
dameetz is offline  
Old 05-24-2024, 08:58 PM
  #2410  
Dan
Tech Champion
iTrader: (76)
 
Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,374
Trader Rating: 76 (100%+)
Default

Have tried it on older Xrays but was fairly satisfied with RC Cox carbon chassis sold at RC Market HK. I got one for my X4 but haven't used it yet. Tried Susumu on another car but felt it was slightly lower quality than RC Cox. Some of them are not "full" carbon like the OEM chassis so flex characteristics will vary.
Dan is offline  
Old 06-04-2024, 02:26 PM
  #2411  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: london
Posts: 209
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Xray X4 22 steering plate hitting lower arm

Hey, trying to diagnose why my x4 steering plate is hitting my lower arm on both sides. Front caster is set at 4 degrees (initial setting in the manual)

Iíve replaced the lower arm thinking they might be bent. Iíve rebuilt both sides and it still seems odd, I canít see anything bent.

I donít want to add or remove shims for the sake of fixing this because no doubt they will affect handling and the car is currently set up to the manuals base setting.

Any thoughts? Arm in yellow, steering plate in green.
I

ry_100 is offline  
Old 06-04-2024, 02:35 PM
  #2412  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
geeunit1014's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 5,829
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ry_100
Hey, trying to diagnose why my x4 steering plate is hitting my lower arm on both sides. Front caster is set at 4 degrees (initial setting in the manual)

Iíve replaced the lower arm thinking they might be bent. Iíve rebuilt both sides and it still seems odd, I canít see anything bent.

I donít want to add or remove shims for the sake of fixing this because no doubt they will affect handling and the car is currently set up to the manuals base setting.

Any thoughts? Arm in yellow, steering plate in green.
I
The original 22 steering arms and camber plates were prone to bending, may want to check them as well. Newer versions from the 23 are beefier and will fit the 22.
geeunit1014 is offline  
Old 06-04-2024, 02:46 PM
  #2413  
The Evicerator
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 4,162
Default

There look to be a few problems with what I can see:
1.) Maybe it's just the angle of the photo, but it looks like a lot more than 4 degrees of caster... I would check the insert orientation.
2.) It looks like you've got ballstud(??) threads protruding down through the bottom of the steering arm. The current design should use flat head screws being fed up through the bottom of the plate and up into a threaded ball. At the very least you might want to use a ballstud with a shorter threaded shank
Steve Weiss is offline  
Old 06-04-2024, 02:56 PM
  #2414  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 174
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ry_100
Hey, trying to diagnose why my x4 steering plate is hitting my lower arm on both sides. Front caster is set at 4 degrees (initial setting in the manual)

Iíve replaced the lower arm thinking they might be bent. Iíve rebuilt both sides and it still seems odd, I canít see anything bent.

I donít want to add or remove shims for the sake of fixing this because no doubt they will affect handling and the car is currently set up to the manuals base setting.

Any thoughts? Arm in yellow, steering plate in green.
Did you confirm the orientation of your upper arms? They might be on the wrong side.
viet is offline  
Old 06-04-2024, 04:23 PM
  #2415  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ry_100
Hey, trying to diagnose why my x4 steering plate is hitting my lower arm on both sides. Front caster is set at 4 degrees (initial setting in the manual)

Iíve replaced the lower arm thinking they might be bent. Iíve rebuilt both sides and it still seems odd, I canít see anything bent.

I donít want to add or remove shims for the sake of fixing this because no doubt they will affect handling and the car is currently set up to the manuals base setting.

Any thoughts? Arm in yellow, steering plate in green.
I
A few of us ran into that problem aswell. We chalked it up to a muckup by xray, so we solved it by moving the steering arm to the top. It worked a lot better.

We've also replaced the '22 arms with '23 arms because they're a lot beefier.

Also, your caster looks closer to 10į instead of 4į. Double-check it.
Sabin is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.