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Old 04-06-2006, 09:27 PM   #46
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Default Then my pick would be a T2.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
I'm not blaming the car at all, it was/is a very good car and I raced one when we first got back into it 2 years ago. I still have it and I think I broke it once.

I put bumpers all around it for him, but it's still breaking. I realize any car he gets is going to break, but breaking a little bit less would be nice. Outdrives and stripped out steering blocks have been the biggest issue, replacing those outdrives is a huge pain in the ass. I realize they make steel outdrives and probably aluminum steering blocks, but putting $70 worth of shiny bits on a car that's only worth about $100 doesn't seem sensible. Also, metal bends and is a hell of a lot more expensive to replace and I think if you upgrade only part of a car that is fairly fragile you're just going to break the next weakest link.

I guess I should have asked, of the current TCs what is the easiest car to work on that is also durable.
It'svery easy to wrench on.

Some design features that make it so easy wrench on are

-It has two peice bulkheads
-The way the shocks are mounted make it a breeze to remove them without messing with shims and nuts Shock clickers that make adjustments easier.
-Wheel hex pins come right out without using vicegrips. I real plus!
-Simple belt design with less part count.
-Easy diff design, with diff covers and exturnal diff adjustments.

Haaaaa....just go to their site and check out the details.
It's just a great car! People make fun of the flex stuff, but I think it's a great idea.
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Old 04-07-2006, 09:06 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
I put bumpers all around it for him, but it's still breaking. I realize any car he gets is going to break, but breaking a little bit less would be nice. Outdrives and stripped out steering blocks have been the biggest issue, replacing those outdrives is a huge pain in the ass. I realize they make steel outdrives and probably aluminum steering blocks, but putting $70 worth of shiny bits on a car that's only worth about $100 doesn't seem sensible. Also, metal bends and is a hell of a lot more expensive to replace and I think if you upgrade only part of a car that is fairly fragile you're just going to break the next weakest link.
If you plan to stick with the car get aluminum outdrives or the lightened steel outdrives (I run IRS aluminum ones with IRS pin cushions in the dogbones). If he's tearing up only the front outdrives upgrade just the fronts. You might be able to score used ones and save. It's worth it, you'll never replace an outdrive again. I was trashing plastic outdrives about every week & throwing out dogbones every other race just lightly grazing boards, especially in 19 turn and mod. I put off replacing them for about a month mostly because of cost, until I bought a set from a friend. I've been running the same outdrives now for about 4-5 years.

Tips I can give on steering blocks is as soon as you feel resistance turning the screws in stop or you'll start to pull threads. Don't use threadlock if you are. Threadlock works however too well when you remove the screw some of the composite sticks to the screw and trashes most of the threads. Also run the screws backwards until you feel that "click" where it's lined up with the existing threads to prevent double threading.
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Old 04-12-2006, 10:37 AM   #48
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Default associated / xray

I used to be all team associated.. I raced in 4 different classes at my local hobby track and 3 of the cars were team associated. I owned and L3, TC3, and a T4. Of those 3 the L3 was the best and TC3 and T4 broke a great deal. Now at this time I was a beginner driver so evidently my skills were not the best..

I just completed my 3rd year of racing.. And I traded off my TC3 for an Xray 05. WOW. The entire season I went through 2 diffs and 1 c-cup. But I can say I only glazed the wall a few times.. But that is when I mostly broke the TC3 when I just glazed the wall (Break a front or rear A-arm).

My T4 well, it still breaks. I probably broke a half dozen A-arms this year.. The A-arms could certainly be beefed up on the off road stuff.

For TC. I would go with an Xray if you can afford it.. In the long run you will spend more time on the track racing then repairing.. Also not having to spend time and money at the hobby shop getting new parts.

I have heard though that the T2 owners are breaking more frequently then the FK05.

They say XRAY has had a hard time supplying parts.. But when you don't break you don't need them...
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Old 04-12-2006, 03:28 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCknight
I wish HPI would bring it back with the current belt layout and Pro 4 arms. I would be all over it...
The current belt drive car with Pro4 arms by HPI is the "Cyclone". Hot bodies is a sub company and owned by HPI.

Another belt driven car with Pro4 arms is TOP Racing's "Scythe".

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