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Old 04-05-2006, 07:13 PM   #31
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I can embarassingly attest to the fact that the pro4 is unbreakable. It never seems to snap arms. It does bend suspension swing pins but they're cheap and easy to replace.

My friend's brokomo... well that snaps arms AND bends pins..

invest in a wide bumper from p-dub. You won't regret it.
Oh.. and upgrade to either steel cvd's or TiR units..
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:18 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by AngryAsian
I can embarassingly attest to the fact that the pro4 is unbreakable. It never seems to snap arms. It does bend suspension swing pins but they're cheap and easy to replace.

My friend's brokomo... well that snaps arms AND bends pins..

invest in a wide bumper from p-dub. You won't regret it.
Oh.. and upgrade to either steel cvd's or TiR units..
I agree, I've never broken an arm on my Pro4. However, I have bent the stock alu dog bones, the MIP steel units and even the extra strong/thick AE units from the FT TC4. Of those, the AE units are by far the strongest, but I have still managed to bend one with relatively minor crashes. I'm now in the market for the TiR units, but probably won't get them until my next trip to Japan as they are stupid expensive and rare in the US.

I have also managed to bend a drive shaft and break a rear wheel bearing. I'll have to check my hinge pins as I suspect that with everything else, they too are damaged. All this with no really serious crashes, mostly just sliding sideways into the boards on a few occasions and the odd time clipping a corner with the edge of my bumper.

Again, I never had any problems like this on the TC4.

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Old 04-05-2006, 10:55 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by ottoman
The most durable is the old Xray T1 with pillow ball suspension... even better than the 05


Any of the Tamiya kits with the TA04/TRF414 suspension is also good
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:01 PM   #34
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I can't give you much advice on what car is the most durable. But, may I suggest you turn your dad on to Virtual RC? You can buy an adapter for $45 so he can use his normal radio to control the game, and it seems to be about 95% of the real driving experience, if not more. It's free, and you can pay if you want to race online or buy more tracks. Nothing breaks in that game, and many people will tell you that practicing on there will translate into real world results.

Our brothers in the R/C helicopter and plane world do it all the time, no reason we can't suggest a similar route for cars.
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Old 04-06-2006, 01:56 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
I can't give you much advice on what car is the most durable. But, may I suggest you turn your dad on to Virtual RC? You can buy an adapter for $45 so he can use his normal radio to control the game, and it seems to be about 95% of the real driving experience, if not more. It's free, and you can pay if you want to race online or buy more tracks. Nothing breaks in that game, and many people will tell you that practicing on there will translate into real world results.

Our brothers in the R/C helicopter and plane world do it all the time, no reason we can't suggest a similar route for cars.
Haven't met a TC that I couldn't break. Owned A TC3, Street Weapons, 2 XXXS, 7 Yokomo MR4TCs (various years), RCLab 7 Even, 4Tec, Cen GX1 and even a Hobby-Tech HT1.

If you want a durable car, think bumper, think drive like a real car, and also replace with durability parts.

What I mean by that is skip the graphite parts because they are more brittle, skip aluminum bulkheads, and stay with stock composite because they have more give.

One time I upgraded my IWC Street Weapon to Aluminum front bulkhead and then I tore up some ridiculous number of susension arms.

You might bump up to aluminum suspension arms. Upgrade your ball cups to captured ball instead. Anything else guys that help improve the durability of a TC?
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Old 04-06-2006, 02:18 AM   #36
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Thanks for all the help guys, now I just need to convince my father to pick up a new car... He has it in his head that there's nothing wrong with the car and it's all the driver. While this is true to a certain degree he would have a hell of a lot more fun if he finished more races.

One other thing, no one adddressed how easy various cars are to work on, since I will be working on the car for him more times than not as well as trying to work on my car between races. So between the FK05, T2, Pro4, and 415 which do you think is the easiest to work on. Those compared to the TC3 would be helpful as well, the TC3 just seems to be a poorly put together puzzle at times. I also am not a fan of how easily some of the parts can get stripped out, my dad seems to think everything needs to be turned until it won't turn anymore, and that leads to a lot of stripped out parts on a FT TC3.
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Old 04-06-2006, 02:20 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
I can't give you much advice on what car is the most durable. But, may I suggest you turn your dad on to Virtual RC? You can buy an adapter for $45 so he can use his normal radio to control the game, and it seems to be about 95% of the real driving experience, if not more. It's free, and you can pay if you want to race online or buy more tracks. Nothing breaks in that game, and many people will tell you that practicing on there will translate into real world results.

Our brothers in the R/C helicopter and plane world do it all the time, no reason we can't suggest a similar route for cars.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't think it will help. My dad's biggest problem is his nerves, he shakes like a leaf whenever he gets on the drivers stand. It was that way when I was 15 and we raced 1/12th scale, 15 years later and we get back into RC together and he still has the same problem.
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Old 04-06-2006, 04:40 AM   #38
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Default I recommend the Pro 4 if you like the shaft cars and

the Xray05 if you like the belted cars. I would have to say the T2 is the easiest car I've ever worked on but it's not as durable as the 05. It's durable but not as durable. The T2 is the only car I've liked in every design aspect. Just my two cents.
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:27 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
While this is true to a certain degree he would have a hell of a lot more fun if he finished more races.
Finishing races is the only way he's going to improve. And actually he's right, you can't always blame the car for breaking. You're not going to find a completely bulletproof car, they're all going to break at some point.

I'd say put bumpers all around the car. Get a better wider version of the front bumper. Put some nerf bumpers on the sides, maybe even a rear bumper. You can buy them or make your own. The little added weight isn't really going to hurt, keeping him on the track is what is important. As he improves you can remove the rear bumper and eventually the sides or keep them. This may sound odd but I'd even consider limiting the radio or speed control to 80-90% throttle especially on tight tracks. Once he's comfortable with the layout you can dial it back up. There's a point where sometimes slower (more consistent/less crashes)=faster.

Last edited by Brent Owen; 04-06-2006 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:05 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
The most durable car I've had was the HPI Pro2..
car was built like a Tank.
that's true..HPI Pro 2 is really really bullet proof
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Old 04-06-2006, 08:35 AM   #41
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If you want a car built like a tank and have pockets to buy a Ferrari, then go with an Xray. I have a TC4 and I love the car parts are very durable, although I'm not a wall hugger like I was when I first started out. (LOL)

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Old 04-06-2006, 10:49 AM   #42
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i agree on this the new xray t2 is the best car i ever had..it so durable last night my car went airborne twice this is alright.i was hit by a gas car on a straight line.and easy to work on...t2 is the best..ive been to a lot of cars.mybe my second option is pro 4.but its a shaft drive ..(im not a fan of shaft drive)
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Old 04-06-2006, 11:49 AM   #43
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MAN I CAN'T WAIT TILL MY SON IS OLD ENOUGH TO RACE, AS FOR THE CAR I STARTED WITH A T1R THEN GOT A '05 THEN WENT BACK TOO THE '04 W/ BMI, AND I HIT WALLS VERY WELL AND IT JUST KEEPS GOING. THERE'S MY VOTE XRAY T1FK'04 W/ BMI CHASSIS AND SHORT ARM CONVERTION.
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Old 04-06-2006, 03:51 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent Owen
Finishing races is the only way he's going to improve. And actually he's right, you can't always blame the car for breaking. You're not going to find a completely bulletproof car, they're all going to break at some point.

I'd say put bumpers all around the car. Get a better wider version of the front bumper. Put some nerf bumpers on the sides, maybe even a rear bumper. You can buy them or make your own. The little added weight isn't really going to hurt, keeping him on the track is what is important. As he improves you can remove the rear bumper and eventually the sides or keep them. This may sound odd but I'd even consider limiting the radio or speed control to 80-90% throttle especially on tight tracks. Once he's comfortable with the layout you can dial it back up. There's a point where sometimes slower (more consistent/less crashes)=faster.
I'm not blaming the car at all, it was/is a very good car and I raced one when we first got back into it 2 years ago. I still have it and I think I broke it once.

I put bumpers all around it for him, but it's still breaking. I realize any car he gets is going to break, but breaking a little bit less would be nice. Outdrives and stripped out steering blocks have been the biggest issue, replacing those outdrives is a huge pain in the ass. I realize they make steel outdrives and probably aluminum steering blocks, but putting $70 worth of shiny bits on a car that's only worth about $100 doesn't seem sensible. Also, metal bends and is a hell of a lot more expensive to replace and I think if you upgrade only part of a car that is fairly fragile you're just going to break the next weakest link.

I guess I should have asked, of the current TCs what is the easiest car to work on that is also durable.
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Old 04-06-2006, 03:59 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
The most durable car I've had was the HPI Pro2..
car was built like a Tank.
Came in 2nd in a 500 lap Enduro over the weekend with a Pro 2. Did not break one thing.

This car still rocks!!
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