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Old 03-28-2006, 07:53 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan the Man
I guess just heating the screw makes it expand, so it gets "bite" on the chassis material?
The aluminum around the screw has a higher coefficient of expansion than the steel screw(121 vs. 248). When they both get heated equally the hole the screw is threaded into gets a lot bigger than the screw itself and this lets you get it out.
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:02 AM   #17
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great tip! i'll keep this in mind next time a screw get jammed in there. by the way, does it work regardless if the screww is steel, alum or ti?
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbeardmore
Hey Andy --

This was on my RDX.....
ima try that on my assassin...still has a screw stuck on the upper deck/rear motor mount
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:17 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbeardmore
Hey Andy --

This was on my RDX.....
ok i guess you are one hell of a bad screw handler, even nice screws get screwed. BTW those of you with Associated and other related company made car kits, replace all the substandard fancy coloured screws that came with the kits to prevent using tips from this thread topic.
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:25 AM   #20
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Those poor little screws just can't take the abuse from big green hands of incredible hulk.
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:26 AM   #21
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My bad screws are on a second hand MSX. the std hex countersuck screws in the underside of the chassis to the bulkheads and suspension blocks, are the problem. So far i got out 3 out of about 15 screws, the rest are now round inside. The hex tool is a great tool, only now starting to show any signs of rounding (after these screws!). Im affraid ive got no choice but to dremel a slot, and the chassis doesnt have a scratch on it!
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Old 03-29-2006, 11:07 AM   #22
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Old 03-29-2006, 12:40 PM   #23
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Todd you stold that tip from me


JK
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Old 03-29-2006, 01:23 PM   #24
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A DREMEL, there its out
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Old 03-29-2006, 04:18 PM   #25
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In some situations you may need to drill the head out until there is nothing left but a shaft. You can then remove any other screws that were holding the two parts together, separate the pieces and have access to the stub of the shaft that remains. It may come out easier with no tension on it. This works well for counter sunk screws from under the chassis going into aluminum.
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Old 03-29-2006, 07:22 PM   #26
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Go to sears and get a eazyout.

Basically it's a tap but with reverse threads on it.

The idea is that you screw it into your nice rounded out hole (going counter clockwise), and then it grabs hold of the hold side and allows you to back out the screw.

They come with some drill bits too so you can make the hole bigger or deeper if need be.

Real nice for counter sunk screws.

For cap or button head screws, just get some vise grips, and crank them down so they're hard to lock. Then twist.
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Old 03-29-2006, 08:56 PM   #27
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Here's a tip....... and a real easy one. Saves a lot of work and frustration in the future........

Put oil on the theads of the screw before assembly. Then you'll never have to use a dremel, WD40, or a soldering iron or other heavy-handed techniques to remove galled screws.

And no, they don't come loose any easier either.
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Old 03-30-2006, 05:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racingkd
Todd you stold that tip from me


JK

Kenny - "stold"...... Better take 5th grade spelling over agian.... lol
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Old 03-30-2006, 05:44 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandyspashett
replace all your screws with euro style countersunk torx screws like the Corally ones then you will not have this problem in the first place
Thats a load....I have several of those torx screws stuck in my bulkheads at the moment, heads are stripped because I tried turning too hard as opposed to using a method like this. Torx screws suck.
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Old 03-31-2006, 10:02 AM   #30
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your mom
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