BJ

I have a few weeks old cells now GP3700s.
After reading threads on this forum and other websites I am now complete lost on what is good and bad for your cells and the best way to care for them.
On the Spintec product people love it and others say NO, because it can take a individual cell below 0.9v
The Octane2 20A seems to be to hard on the cells as a quick discharge heating the cells to much. But then people say higher amp the better?
I found a UK site where Spashett says to discharge at 10A then equalize after every two or three races.
I do not have a clue on dead shorting, if this is for GP cells or IB as I think there is alot of miss information floating around.
The MuchMore CTX-D seems to be the Daddy but that is big bucks!!

I know I have to equalize and have the Novak tray set at 0.9v, but what is the best way to discharge a pack safley and controlled down to 5.4v to then be able to equalize, without trashing the cells.
I suppose I'm also asking what is the best way to get punch/performace out of my cells as I race stock sedans.

Dam I'm confused

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

For what its worth-I own the Octane dischargers and for stock -i have always felt (seat of the pants) that discharging on it after racing and before charging gives a punchier feel to your batteries. I now use a NOvak Smart tray as well because its foolproof (meaning it shuts each cell off when its at your desired cut-off) so theres no need to stand over it like a Octane and unscrew each cell as its light goes out.

My recommendation is if your diligent and dont mind sitting and watching the lights go out-the octane discharger will give you the most punch, but if convenience is important as is never over discharging your cells-then the smart tray is for you. I know heat is the enemy of batteries, but lets face it-we race and my race packs last a Very longtime and I always discharge, tray, race, discharge, tray, charge, etc....

What does over discharging (Below 0.9 per cell) do to your packs, well on a GP or IB it will lose you runtime. ON a GP you should see a noticeable increase in punch. ON the IB's, the jury is still out as far as I am concerned if discharging below 0.9 reeps any benefits noticeable on the track.

Though not to confuse you any further, a racer just cycled his packs and he uses the Tekin Battery Doctor to discharge and equalize on his brand new IB3800's and saw 1.210+ voltages (higher than label), but a loss of 20 to 50 seconds runtime on the label at 35 amps. he runs stock so it wont affect him at all.
And last-I honestly think you'll do more damage from heat by overcharging with too ahigh a peak detect then the discharge rate!! Again-understand discharging below 0.9 will educe runtime though and thats not always a bad thing.

Ray

TDO

Good thread. I feel sometimes the same. But this is what I think is the overall solution:

After running, put your packs away (GP and/or IB).
Next race, discharge them on the CTX-D or Smart Tray to 0.9 volt
Then charge.

I used the spintec Bat Man but it seems to be havoc on the IB cells
I used the Team Orion Dig. Discharger but at 30 amps it went to 0.8v per cell
I used Robitronic Eq. Trays but they bring down the cells to 0.8v

So I guess just stick to the first part of my 'guru-like' story

Marc

RH Customs

Here is what I do:

I run a Integy 30 amp dischger set at 5.7v or .95 volts per cell, so that if there is a cell that is a little lower there is still enough leeway. After that I put them on my Novak smart tray set to .9v cutoff.

RH

koabich

Best best is tio check the SMC Racing Website. They have all the information you could want on therefor cycling batteries.

I have done the following on all my cells with no negative effcts what so ever (this includes GP and IB cells)

1) Use the Integy 0-30 discharge tray and leave the pack on the tray for several minutes after the bulbs go out.
2) Charge the cells on a GFX charger at 6amps with a o.03 peak detect.
3) Run the pack (never run a pack until it dumps unless in a race)
4) Discharge the pack on my GFX charger with a 35 amp discharge rate and a 5.4 volt cutt-off
5) Place the cells on a Novak Smart tray set with a 5.4 volt cutt-off.
6) Store the cells until my next run

dodo

i discharge my IB3800 on teamwave lightning dischargers, http://www.teamwaveonline.com/main/Product

no complain about it so far, after raceday i will discharge my packs on it. For cycle, i charged it using turbo35BL (linear) for 6 amps or cell master, after that discharge it on the BL to 5.40v then put it on the lightning again.

and it doesn't cost as much as the ctx-D

RH Customs

Doesn't Team Much More also make one simular to that?

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...il.asp?id=5874
RH

XingXing

only thing i would say is to only discharge to 6.0v when in series. i actually only take them down to 6.6volts when on a 20amp discharge in series.

then take it down to 5.4 or whatever on your teamwave.

this ensures that when putting your cells on the tray that no cells have previosly already reached 0.9volts (or whatever you have set it to).

dodo

exactly, but muchmore is muchmore expensive

dodo

great input! thanks, actually i seldom cycle my batts cos I race regularly, so most of the time it's just discharging.

XingXing

the ctx-d is best described as equilizer AND discharger coz it can do 35 amp discahrge

whereas the teamwave is best described as a equilizer.

i feel the teamwave does a better job of equlizing coz it can lower its discharge rate to 0.1amps. the lower the discharge rate the better equilization process....

i'm sure the next generation trays will incorporate the advantages of bothe trays.