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Old 12-14-2002, 10:47 PM   #1
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Arrow Just got a new P2K2 Pro motor...

I wanna know everything I need to do before I run it for the first time. And I also wanna know what I need to do to maintain it.

Thanks
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Old 12-14-2002, 11:59 PM   #2
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Default stock motor maintenance

these types of questions have become increasingly frequent with the large amount of new members we have. there is a long thread posted about stock motors that contains all the info you could ever need. yes, it is long, but it's there. there's nothing wrong with asking the question again, but it's better asked within that thread. i'm not gonna pretend that i'm a motor guru, but i've wanted to know the same thing. in addition to all of the info in the stock motor thread, i found this must have link extremely helpful. check it out.

http://rcvehicles.about.com/library/rc101/blackbook.htm

tons to read about. most general practices will apply for the p2k2, but there are also some specific tuning guidlines for each make of motor. hope this helps.
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Old 12-15-2002, 09:16 AM   #3
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With the pro version the motor should come broken in, so all you need to do is put it in your car and go.
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Old 12-15-2002, 11:28 PM   #4
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hey nice pic...


what u think of mine?>>?
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Old 12-16-2002, 01:48 PM   #5
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love the pic...

stay (sic)
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Old 12-16-2002, 02:35 PM   #6
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Will do...

Have u run your new motor yet? i bought one too and my bro used it on a fairly large asphalt track and found it wasn't as good as people said it would be. the GM3 in my car was better in almost all aspects??
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Old 12-16-2002, 03:16 PM   #7
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The Trinity pro motors DO NOT come broken in and you might as well throw those dyno labels in the trash! All Big T does is take the motor put 4499 serrated brushes with red/green springs and throw it on the dyno for just long enough to get a reading...... No break-in, not even long enough to get a good reading!!
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Old 12-16-2002, 03:36 PM   #8
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i've heard the same thing. the e brushes are pretty good though and the red/green combo is usually better than standard blacks. but yes, break in is still essential. this includes aligning the brush hoods before hand. i'll good to check that the arm is shimmed to the center as well. never assume as production tollerances can mess that all up. i've got a motor that takes no shims at the bottom, and one that needs shimmed all the way to the top.
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Old 12-17-2002, 10:27 AM   #9
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sometimes motors suck untill you turn the arm a few times too
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Old 12-17-2002, 12:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by -CriMinaL- |RC
Will do...

Have u run your new motor yet? i bought one too and my bro used it on a fairly large asphalt track and found it wasn't as good as people said it would be. the GM3 in my car was better in almost all aspects??
GM3?
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Old 12-17-2002, 02:49 PM   #11
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gm3=green machin 3 (another trinity stock motor)

one tool you will want to have is a brush hood alignment tool. this will allow you to align your brushes so they will make maximum contact with the comm.if you dont do this the brushes can cock side ways slightly in the hood and lose power. this is the single most way to get power from a stock motor.
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Old 12-17-2002, 03:56 PM   #12
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how much is this part? because I will go out and buy it right now
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Old 12-18-2002, 05:39 AM   #13
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They usually ost around $13-$20 make sure you get the bar type alignment tool and also learn how to properly use it......
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Old 12-18-2002, 09:25 AM   #14
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Default Brush Hood alignment tools

Unknown; (man that's a mean Avatar)

If you can find one, the Racetech alignment tool is the best. It has a rod that also goes through the motor bushings to give you the BEST possible alignment of the Brushes to the Com. Otherwise, Trinity sells the Bar only type for about $15-$20. Use a piece of 600 grit sandpaper to lightly deburr the sides and ends of the bar so the sharp edges don't cut into the soft metal of the Brush Hoods.
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Old 12-18-2002, 09:45 AM   #15
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thanks for the help everyone...i will get the alignment tool today.
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