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Old 12-18-2002, 10:10 AM   #16
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Niftech has a great alignment tool as well.

Aligning the brush hoods is probably one of the least common things racers do. When you buy a motor off the shelf and if it's not a Fantom, Lightspeed or from someone who is working them before they sell them, you wont get all the potential out of the motor.

Another thing to consider doing is polishing the ARM at the location where it meets the bushing. Some will polish the bushing but I like to polish the ARM shaft(that sounds a little sick).
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Old 12-18-2002, 11:20 AM   #17
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The Trinity tool has both the part that goes through the brush hoods and the bar that goes through the bushings to align them to CL.
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Old 12-18-2002, 11:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pit Crew
The Trinity tool has both the part that goes through the brush hoods and the bar that goes through the bushings to align them to CL.
The Niftech tool does the same thing.

Word of caution, I would only use the brush hood portion. Using the brush hood tool along with the shaft that goes through the bushings may look like the brushes are aligned but they may not be.
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:00 PM   #19
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How do you figure? Note, you do put the motor back together with that shaft running through both bushings and through the bar going through the brush-hoods. The only way it would be off is if the hole in the bar through the brush hoods was off center line.
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:37 PM   #20
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Pit Crew;

Sorry to disagree, but the TRINITY tools are the bar type ONLY. Which is better than nothing.
You also need to look at brush wear to verify than they are correctly aligned with the Com even after using a tool.
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:40 PM   #21
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there is no need for a hole or a post that goes down between the bearings. You only align one side at a time. If you align the hoods so the bar goes easily through both hoods at once, the hoods are aligned wrong. Everyone does this diffrently so no one way is correct.
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:51 PM   #22
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this may be the stupidest question that anyone has ever asked around here...but what exactly do the brushes do? I know I know...i am not that smart with r/c cars yet...

my learning is very SLOW
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Old 12-18-2002, 03:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by unknown
this may be the stupidest question that anyone has ever asked around here...but what exactly do the brushes do? I know I know...i am not that smart with r/c cars yet...

my learning is very SLOW
They transfer the power to the ARM and make the motor go. It's probably more complicated then that but that's my story and I'm sticking to it .

any motor questions you have go to rccar.com and go to the "Ask Big Jim About Motors" Forum.
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Old 12-19-2002, 01:57 PM   #24
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The brushes are there to transfer power from - + to the comm. The more silver the brushes have in the the faster and easyer the power gets to the comm, but the more silver you have the more you have to cut your comm, its harder on the comm but faster. So if you race high silver is good.
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Old 12-19-2002, 03:07 PM   #25
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teamAE - thanks for clearing that up. In your experience, who has the most silver in their brushes, Putnam?
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Old 12-19-2002, 03:14 PM   #26
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POPSRACER

I know I only quite smoking crack about 10 minutes ago, but I swear I ordered the trinity tool. I swear I received it. I swear I opened it. I swear it said TRINITY on it, and I am telling you. It has the bar that goes through the brush hoods and a shaft that goes through the bearings or bushings. there are also holes on each side of the bar that goes through the brush hoods so if you are aligning a mod or a stock, you can still use the 1/8" diameter shaft.

Quite looking at that ad on the second page of RCCA from a couple of months ago, and acctually order one to find out.
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Old 12-19-2002, 03:47 PM   #27
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For the most silver I would have to go with Axiom 12%'s thats 12% silver. Then you can cut them how ever you like. I found when running the 12% for stock if you shave the sides just a little like you would for a mvp works well on all motors. They also have mod 12% which are terribly fast.

www.axiommotors.com
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Old 12-19-2002, 04:50 PM   #28
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Well, I just got back from the track after running my P2K2 PRO. Wow, I like it a lot better than the motor it came with. I stuck a 24 tooth pinion and a 72 tooth spur on...and it had some speed. I would just like to make it faster...anyone wanan help with that?
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Old 12-19-2002, 05:13 PM   #29
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Pit Crew;

Really, I DO believe you. I wish that I could have found one like that (with the shaft). Mine just has the bar with a Purple handle on one end. Works fine, the brushes look nice and even on inspection.
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Old 12-19-2002, 07:17 PM   #30
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Default Hey Pit,

Dood the crack hasn't impaired you in anyway, I've seen the TRINITY hood hacking devices just like you've described and as someone else already stated, they suck.

When you set your brush hood alignment, you need to compensate for the armatures rotation and the friction between the com and the brush. As the brush slides against the com, the friction between the two cause the brush to shift inside of the brush hood. This in turn (pardon the pun hehe...), changes the alignment that TRINITYS little "perfect everytime!" tool sets, making it now "wrong everytime" and creating excess arcing which turns into poor com wear and power robbing heat.

The best way to set timing for me is to install the prepared brushes on the motor after freshly cutting the commutator. Hook the motor up to a power supply of 4 volts and let it run for about 10 seconds. Pull the brushes and measure the distance of the comms mark on the brush face from EACH side of the brush with a set of calipers. Close to middle, somewhere in the middle, near the middle, or even almost exactly middle isn't good enough if you want an efficient (cooler running), powerful (cuz much less heat), sweeter sounding motor. Next loosen the spring post and hood screw, insert a portion of tool into to the hood about the length of the brush and lightly tweak it to one side or the other according to your measurements. Retighten screws, Reinstall brushes, repower the motor, and then recheck the mark. Keep doing so until the break in mark is dead center with the brush face. After your comfortable with your adjustments run the motor for about a minute or more depending on brush compound to make sure they seat accordingly. Put one last skim cut on the comm and it should be ready to rip!

Again, as stated previously, everyone does this different. If you do it differently from me that doesn't mean either way is wrong. It just means we smoke from different crack pipes!
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