ottoman

iTrader: (13)

About all I run from Integy is the steering rack.. and only because it offers more adj than the stock one.
I find Integy TC5 aluminum parts to have very poor quality control.
I wont run them anymore... but everyone is entitled to their own opinions.
Some people seem to have had good luck with them.. while others (me included) have not.

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

Re-read my post. I wasn't slamming you. They both have problems. I said this. What I said, in different words, is that I have seen a higher percentage of integy parts fail.

So before you go "slamming" somebody, know what you are saying so YOU don't end up looking like a fool.

Mr. Bubby

iTrader: (6)

To tell ya the truth.....For the most part, what I've found out about all the aluminum FLASHY stuff is that it's mostly just for bling, yeah, it has more adjustments and stuff but in the long run it's probably gonna cost ya. The only aluminum part that I would even think of using is maybe the Rear Hub Carriers, they have the LEAST tendency to bend. BEND is the operative word here. If you use the aluminum front steering knuckles or the C-hubs....they WILL BEND GUARANTEED. Unless you absolutely hit NOTHING. So in summary, the point is KEEP with the plastic up front, and leave the aluminum in the REAR.

6Venom

iTrader: (44)

^^true. I had aluminum parts in my TC3 early and learned which ones to replace, once some of them started to bend. imo, a handful of plastic parts goes a lot further than 1 set of aluminum. I think I'll steer clear of aluminum for now (unless it's a beer can).

Hyde

iTrader: (1)

I've bought alloy Rims from integy for my Tamiya hilux Hybrid and all aluminum parts that take offroad abuse that get bashed and nothing has bent. I have digity designs alloy c-hubs and I've wrecked..haven't bent anything. I think it depends on the quality of the aluminum. I use all aluminum parts for my Tamiya m03r..a-arms, hubs, nuckles, ect.. And nothing has bent and its taken some awful hits. But we all know...tamiya alloy is like steal..(i believe tamiya uses multible metals in the alloy).


I'm not saying run out and buy alloy a-arms for your tc5. all alloy from diffrent companys have different grade and integy is top notch. The ONLY bad thing.. sometimes there parts could be miss drilled or have other little casting mold dabreez on the part or the finish isn't good ect.

raven101

iTrader: (4)

one thing to keep in mind when going to aluminum is enegery transfer. the parts you replace are stronger so the energy from a crash has to go someware. IMO it is better to replace a $4.00 c-hub or a $6.00 a-arm than a $175.00 carbon fiber chassis. IMO.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

When I do run alum parts it is only rear hubs and possibly front steering knuckles and that would be it. Mainly to help with keeping the bearings a little better over the long run. Its also a little easier to keep track of them bending as it is easier to see.

I never had any problems running alum in these areas on any of my previous tourings cars I have had over the years.

Its nice to still have plastic parts as these are the areas that will give a little or break. If you have too much alum. you will have no areas of give so then the expensive alum parts will bend so always leave yourself some plastic so you have an area to give some.

medservr

Does anyone have a good place to mount a ESC power trans cap module on a TC5? You can't put it on the top plate because the belt is there and you can mount it on the chassis because these is not enough room. Any help, including pictures of your TC5/ESC setup, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

raven101

iTrader: (4)

i had the same prob. trying to mount my losi excellerin. all i could do is zip tie it to the motor wire.

revo61

iTrader: (18)

What esc do you have? I have a lrp sphere and I have my cap next to the esc.

speedsterblade

I had just enough room to shoegoo it on the chassis between the motor and esc, w/ the esc being 2-3mm behind the servo...and had just enough clearance between them all not to touch/rub each other. ..using a gtb & standard sized servo.

medservr

I have a Losi Xcelorin S ESC. Thanks for the great suggestions everybody. I'm leaning towards just zip tieing it to the motor wires. I know that I could stick it onto the chassis between the motor and the ESC, but I'm worried about the heat from the motor damaging the module. I'm not planning to run my motor over 175 degrees, but between the motor and the ESC seems a little too close from comfort. I'm probably over reacting.

I actually called Associated about this. In a word, I'd say that the question was a curveball for them.

Thanks

John_S

One thing that i have done in the past is that you could extend your capacitor wires so that they run under the topdeck and put the cap behind the motor. Just keep the wires in close to the motor mount and then round the back. This is a nice neat and tidy option if you can lengthen the wires I run a gm speedo so the capacitors are mounted to my speedo so i dont need to worry about this now Hope this helps

AssocRacer

iTrader: (10)

Mine is zip-tied to the wires that go from the ESC to the motor. Never had a problem with it being like that. The wires are short enough to where the cap doesn't swing around and throw off the balance of the car either.

medservr

Yeah, I think I'm just going to do the zip tie thing. Extending the wires seems like a good idea, but I all about keeping it simple. Since I'm planning to race my TC5, I'm happy to hear that the balance isn't thrown off by having the module up a little high on the motor wires.

Thanks