ammo

I'm considering running the TC5, but there's zero parts support at my place.

So just to have an idea, what are the common things that you guys stock up?

keepitmovin504

iTrader: (31)

I like to keep some extra caster blocks (you will probably break a few of these), a few steering blocks, rear hubs, and an extra set of suspension arms

naggalowmo

iTrader: (5)

If you can find a Hard Wide Bumper such as the CEFX or P-dub it will drastically reduce breakage. Luckily i have yet to break a single part since installing my wide bumper. Things I have broken before getting a wide bumper were few castor blocks mainly, 1 steering block, and 1 suspension arm in about 4 months of racing. I would say this car is fairly durable considering the fact that the TC5 was my first hobby grade RC and I had never raced RC cars before. I raced 2-3 times a week at a small technical track.

Rick Hohwart

You should have a set of axle bearings on hand.

flatovercrest

iTrader: (1)

anyone..?

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

I'd start a MM5700 around 7.0-8.0 FDR. With the 87T spur that would be from 22-25T pinion. I run a MM7700 at around 9.0 FDR. Most importantly, check temps at 4-5 min range and try to keep around 160 at the end of your run...180 max. You can push 200 with a MM but I'd recommend not to if you want it to last.

factory racer

i also have a mamba 5700 kv setup in my tc5......i switched to a 64 pitch spur...im using a 114 tooth right now i think....how do i calculate my final drive ratio??? why do u suggest a 7.0 - 8.0 final drive....what does that mean and how do u calculate it??

thanks

Mike

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Tell me your pinion size and I'll show you where you are running and how to calculate it.

factory racer

umm i think i have a 35 pinion on it right now...havent ran it at a track yet just to test it out and stuff....

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Then your not far from what I've recommended.
Spur / Pinion x 2.0 (TC5 drive ratio) = FDR
Your at
114/35 x 2.0 = 6.514 FDR

You may get away with that depending on how you drive and drag brake settings ect (more drag = more heat). Watch temps like posted above and go from there.

flatovercrest

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Verndog. Always great info!

factory racer

hey verndog...thanks for all ur help.......couple more questions since u no a lot about the tc5.....does the normal tc5 come with the soft or hard plastic components.....is the tc5r for outdoor rubber come with the soft or hard...will it be a noticable difference between the two...if i run outdoor ashphalt rubber witht he hard???

thanks in advance

Mike

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Stock TC5 comes with the standard (softer) arms right now. I would think they'd put the hard arms with the stock kit , and soft with the new R for grip, but haven't read which they are doing. The stock chassis does real well on asphalt too, and doesn't suffer near the tweak issues from what I've read. The softer arms give you more traction while you loose a small amount of "predictability". I'd personally recommend the stock kit, with ITF top deck mounted with 4 rear orings to dampen it a bit.

I'd like to see what some of the factory guys would recommend in that situation.

Rick Hohwart

The current TC5 comes with the soft/standard suspension components. The TC5R will continue to come with these parts. The TC5F will come with the hard parts.

I think you can run the hard parts on asphalt with no problems. And they may be an advantage of very high grip asphalt tracks. The caster block seems to gain the most rigidity (relative to t he other parts) in the hard plastic compared to the soft. So if you are going to run the hard plastic outdoors, going to the a stadnard caster block will be a turing option you should have with you.

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

Ok, here are some pics. Finally got a chance to put photo shop back in.

Let me know if you see somthing.
DK