Team Associated TC5
12-31-2007, 01:32 AM
#4966
Spur gears
Hey guys, is anyone else having problems stripping out spur gears. I've been racing awhile and I can't really say I"m beating the car. Once and a while is too be expected but I'm finding that with a stock motor, no matter if I set the mesh tight, med, or loose. I'm either chewing the gear or biting teeth off once every 3 runs. I'm running 64 pitch and I've tried changing spur manufactures and changing pinion gears. A friend of mine suggested to measure the motor plate ( smart decision ) it is thicker on the one side by .02mm. The plate is flat also. I'm going to call AE about it but wondering if anyone else is experiencing this. Thanks all.
12-31-2007, 02:03 AM
#4967
Hey guys, is anyone else having problems stripping out spur gears. I've been racing awhile and I can't really say I"m beating the car. Once and a while is too be expected but I'm finding that with a stock motor, no matter if I set the mesh tight, med, or loose. I'm either chewing the gear or biting teeth off once every 3 runs. I'm running 64 pitch and I've tried changing spur manufactures and changing pinion gears. A friend of mine suggested to measure the motor plate ( smart decision ) it is thicker on the one side by .02mm. The plate is flat also. I'm going to call AE about it but wondering if anyone else is experiencing this. Thanks all.
Steve
12-31-2007, 03:10 AM
#4968
chassis
i have a quik ? on the chassis . I have an itf chassis and for the most part it is flat with the exception of where the motor is it has a slight tweak there where the cut out is. I wondering if I'm the only one having this problem is it normal and or is there a way to fix this. Ive tried loosening the screws and retightening them I also tried flexing then retightening the screws. what does everyone think
12-31-2007, 07:10 AM
#4969
Roadburn, make sure you are running 3 screws in the spur gear. I was only running 2 in mine and had the same problem. I put the third one in and it went away.
Graphite plate chassis' can get tweaked once in awhile. When I raced oval we had that problem on occasion.
Graphite plate chassis' can get tweaked once in awhile. When I raced oval we had that problem on occasion.
12-31-2007, 07:51 AM
#4970
Are the shock pistons used in this car the same used in like the T4 and all there kits? Or are they different?
12-31-2007, 08:11 AM
#4972
the shock pistons are the same.
Neil there are a few things that could be causing your tweak issue.
#1 and most important for everyone.. when the shocks are built measure all of them fully extended but dont have the spring and spring perch on and measure them. *** all 4 shocks must be exactly the same length.
#2 neil if the shocks are the same length then make sure the ride height is exactly the same , make sure droop is exactly the same from side to side
#3 if all that is good then take the tires off the car and put it on that black stone at THE TRACK and loosen all the top deck screws then with one hand or with someone else helping make sure the chassis is held down on the black stone so it is completely flat and then tighten the top deck down.. start with one front scre and then one rear screw. and so on till your done.
Checking and doing those three things should fix your problem.
oh and also check to make sure the screw that holds the motor mount bulkhead is screwed in but not cranked in to hard.
And for the guy who is chewing up spur gears your problem could be not having the motor tightened down enough or that the motor mount bulkhead screw is not tight enough and causeing a tweak or flex issue. Either will cause damage to the spur.
Neil there are a few things that could be causing your tweak issue.
#1 and most important for everyone.. when the shocks are built measure all of them fully extended but dont have the spring and spring perch on and measure them. *** all 4 shocks must be exactly the same length.
#2 neil if the shocks are the same length then make sure the ride height is exactly the same , make sure droop is exactly the same from side to side
#3 if all that is good then take the tires off the car and put it on that black stone at THE TRACK and loosen all the top deck screws then with one hand or with someone else helping make sure the chassis is held down on the black stone so it is completely flat and then tighten the top deck down.. start with one front scre and then one rear screw. and so on till your done.
Checking and doing those three things should fix your problem.
oh and also check to make sure the screw that holds the motor mount bulkhead is screwed in but not cranked in to hard.
And for the guy who is chewing up spur gears your problem could be not having the motor tightened down enough or that the motor mount bulkhead screw is not tight enough and causeing a tweak or flex issue. Either will cause damage to the spur.
12-31-2007, 08:12 AM
#4973
You may have done what I did to my 415 recently. One of the front bulkhead screws pulled up through its countersunk hole a little bit and caused a small radius of delamination. It's hard to see by just looking at it, but if I sight down the bottom of the chassis just right, I can see a shadow around the hole. It rocks on that spot. It's a subtle break, but it's there. I'm not sure if there's a fix, it's pretty hard to fix graphite plate once it's delaminated.
Anyway, you're right, if the plates aren't broken and you haven't bent a bulkhead (check for that, too) then you should be able to loosen it up, put it on your setup board, tighten it up, and voila, straight car.
Anyway, you're right, if the plates aren't broken and you haven't bent a bulkhead (check for that, too) then you should be able to loosen it up, put it on your setup board, tighten it up, and voila, straight car.
I'll go look over the bottom of the ITF chassis and look for what you described. Thanks for the info.Carbon Fiber chassis are made from many layers of the carbon and also the resin. Its intirely possible that in a severe crash and even sometimes when it appears to not be a severe crash the layers have been damaged. Sometimes we all need to buy new chassis plates which is another reason why the TC5 is a very good deal.
Steve
P.S. This post wasn't really aimed at STLNLST as I am sure he knows this but aimed more at the newer racers reading this.
Steve
P.S. This post wasn't really aimed at STLNLST as I am sure he knows this but aimed more at the newer racers reading this.
I take your comments personally and I'm going to make it my job to not crash....ever again....
Thanks for insight. The tweak didn't seem to bother the way the car handled on the track on asphalt but in carpet with rubber tire's the car didn't seem right. Who know's...I could have messed the chassis up on carpet or it wasn't a factor on the lower bite asphalt. Either way....I know what to keep my eye out for. Happy New Years to all and happy racing in 08.
12-31-2007, 10:01 AM
#4974
Foam tire step ups.
I read earlier that robk and wallstreet (correct?) are working on foam set ups.
I know that robk is trying to stiffen the arms himself. Besides that where are you with set ups compared to the pros at cleveland with foam set ups?
Also are the kit front hubs 2 degrees?
I picked up a slightly used TC5 after a year a not racing. I will be racing foam 19t on medium grip carpet.
Any help will be appreciated very much.
Thanks and God Bless
I read earlier that robk and wallstreet (correct?) are working on foam set ups.
I know that robk is trying to stiffen the arms himself. Besides that where are you with set ups compared to the pros at cleveland with foam set ups?
Also are the kit front hubs 2 degrees?
I picked up a slightly used TC5 after a year a not racing. I will be racing foam 19t on medium grip carpet.
Any help will be appreciated very much.
Thanks and God Bless
12-31-2007, 10:59 AM
#4976
the kit caster blocks are 4 degree . You will probably want 6 degree blocks and also what type of traction compound are you guys using on the track you will be running on.
We have something that is very easy to drive and should be a good starting point for most we will get it closer this week at the novak . From keven heberts finish at the indoor champs (5) and juho (6) you can see the car is almost there and just a little more time and it will be very good.
Remember it took a while for the guys to figure out the rdx too and after they did ..... you all know so i dont have to tell you.
send me your email in a pm and i will get you something good to start out with
We have something that is very easy to drive and should be a good starting point for most we will get it closer this week at the novak . From keven heberts finish at the indoor champs (5) and juho (6) you can see the car is almost there and just a little more time and it will be very good.
Remember it took a while for the guys to figure out the rdx too and after they did ..... you all know so i dont have to tell you.
send me your email in a pm and i will get you something good to start out with
12-31-2007, 12:02 PM
#4978
Foam tire step ups.
I read earlier that robk and wallstreet (correct?) are working on foam set ups.
I know that robk is trying to stiffen the arms himself. Besides that where are you with set ups compared to the pros at cleveland with foam set ups?
Also are the kit front hubs 2 degrees?
I picked up a slightly used TC5 after a year a not racing. I will be racing foam 19t on medium grip carpet.
Any help will be appreciated very much.
Thanks and God Bless
I read earlier that robk and wallstreet (correct?) are working on foam set ups.
I know that robk is trying to stiffen the arms himself. Besides that where are you with set ups compared to the pros at cleveland with foam set ups?
Also are the kit front hubs 2 degrees?
I picked up a slightly used TC5 after a year a not racing. I will be racing foam 19t on medium grip carpet.
Any help will be appreciated very much.
Thanks and God Bless
http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...ndoor_2007.pdf
That setup is gonna be pretty good everywhere. There are a few things that can also be helpful:
1. try running the car full long wheelbase, esp. w/brushless motors. The car can be easier to drive setup this way sometimes. Note that the car will be 262mm long, which is very close to what the fast Corally guys are running.
2. In high traction situations, you can try 1B setting for the hingepins in the back. Note I have not tried this with mod motors.
3. Again, for high traction, a light rear oil can also help, 25-20 wt. This will help the car get thru the turns and rotate a bit better.
4. Front diff- it needs to be very tight, to where it pops or clicks when you hold the wheels and try to turn the spur. You can control how much steering/reaction the car has by tightening the diff. Tighter=more reaction/steering.
5. Adding shims under the rear hub ballstud can help to free the car. Adding shims to the front will add steering.
I'm only an average driver, but this is what i have found. I hope it helps.
12-31-2007, 12:19 PM
#4979
Tech Master
iTrader: (63)
Start here:
http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...ndoor_2007.pdf
That setup is gonna be pretty good everywhere. There are a few things that can also be helpful:
1. try running the car full long wheelbase, esp. w/brushless motors. The car can be easier to drive setup this way sometimes. Note that the car will be 262mm long, which is very close to what the fast Corally guys are running.
2. In high traction situations, you can try 1B setting for the hingepins in the back. Note I have not tried this with mod motors.
3. Again, for high traction, a light rear oil can also help, 25-20 wt. This will help the car get thru the turns and rotate a bit better.
4. Front diff- it needs to be very tight, to where it pops or clicks when you hold the wheels and try to turn the spur. You can control how much steering/reaction the car has by tightening the diff. Tighter=more reaction/steering.
5. Adding shims under the rear hub ballstud can help to free the car. Adding shims to the front will add steering.
I'm only an average driver, but this is what i have found. I hope it helps.
http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...ndoor_2007.pdf
That setup is gonna be pretty good everywhere. There are a few things that can also be helpful:
1. try running the car full long wheelbase, esp. w/brushless motors. The car can be easier to drive setup this way sometimes. Note that the car will be 262mm long, which is very close to what the fast Corally guys are running.
2. In high traction situations, you can try 1B setting for the hingepins in the back. Note I have not tried this with mod motors.
3. Again, for high traction, a light rear oil can also help, 25-20 wt. This will help the car get thru the turns and rotate a bit better.
4. Front diff- it needs to be very tight, to where it pops or clicks when you hold the wheels and try to turn the spur. You can control how much steering/reaction the car has by tightening the diff. Tighter=more reaction/steering.
5. Adding shims under the rear hub ballstud can help to free the car. Adding shims to the front will add steering.
I'm only an average driver, but this is what i have found. I hope it helps.
Last edited by The Wease; 12-31-2007 at 03:08 PM. Reason: spelling