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Old 01-16-2012, 07:20 PM
  #13066  
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
indyhobbies, yes if your nuts looks that bad, my guess is that the rubber insert are gone too.
I understand what you mean. I'll check them. The anodizing is worn for sure. That's one upgrade I'm sure I can afford!
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:44 PM
  #13067  
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What gear ratio (spur, pinion, pitch) and FDR would you guys recommend for the following motor:

21.T Brushless
Silver Can
27T Stock
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:27 PM
  #13068  
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Originally Posted by jcr View Post
What gear ratio (spur, pinion, pitch) and FDR would you guys recommend for the following motor:

21.T Brushless
Silver Can
27T Stock
So looks like the magic number for Silver can, Tamiya Black Can, and 27T is around 5.5-5.6 FDR. Reusing what I have it seems like I can do 64 pitch 112T spur and 40T pinion.

Magic number for 21.5T Brushless is around 3.5, was wondering if I can use a 48pitch 69T spur and 38T pinion. Will those two gears mesh together?
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:51 PM
  #13069  
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I have a little more weight to add to get up to 1450grams. I run the battery forward and the rx on the servo to get some weight on the left side forward also. Where do you think other 40 grams should go?
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:54 PM
  #13070  
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Originally Posted by jpk4ud View Post
I have a little more weight to add to get up to 1450grams. I run the battery forward and the rx on the servo to get some weight on the left side forward also. Where do you think other 40 grams should go?
Check your side to side balance....put the weight on the lighter side, and try to get a balanced chassis.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:03 PM
  #13071  
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Originally Posted by jpk4ud View Post
I have a little more weight to add to get up to 1450grams. I run the battery forward and the rx on the servo to get some weight on the left side forward also. Where do you think other 40 grams should go?
If you already have it balanced side to side, then put the weight as close to the middle and centerline of the chassis as possible.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:12 PM
  #13072  
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Originally Posted by red7fifty View Post
If you already have it balanced side to side, then put the weight as close to the middle and centerline of the chassis as possible.
What about front to back..try to keep that balanced also?
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:21 PM
  #13073  
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Originally Posted by jpk4ud View Post
What about front to back..try to keep that balanced also?
All the weight towards the Center, is a good starting point......too much weight towards the back, will likely give it a tendency to oversteer (back end swinging out)....so, towards the front will make it easier to drive.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:30 PM
  #13074  
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Originally Posted by red7fifty View Post
All the weight towards the Center, is a good starting point......too much weight towards the back, will likely give it a tendency to oversteer (back end swinging out)....so, towards the front will make it easier to drive.
THANKS!
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:56 AM
  #13075  
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Suggestions on belt tightness?

I understand that the tension on both belts should be as equal as possible so that both front and back wheels pull as hard, and at the same time, as each other.

I've bought two used TC5's. One came to me with the belts somewhat loose (3/8" up and down on the large one) and the other the belts came very tight. Not guitar strings, but pretty darn tight.

What is considered normal? The manual addresses the mounts, but not really tension that I found.
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:13 AM
  #13076  
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Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
Suggestions on belt tightness?

I understand that the tension on both belts should be as equal as possible so that both front and back wheels pull as hard, and at the same time, as each other.

I've bought two used TC5's. One came to me with the belts somewhat loose (3/8" up and down on the large one) and the other the belts came very tight. Not guitar strings, but pretty darn tight.

What is considered normal? The manual addresses the mounts, but not really tension that I found.
Tightness depends on what motor you are running. Mod motors you should run fairly tight, slower motors u run looser. Like in 10.5 I run pretty loose.
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:21 AM
  #13077  
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My spur gear seems to be hitting the upper deck. The gear wobbles quite a bit. I think its time for a new gear adapter. Is the aluminum one worth getting?
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:34 PM
  #13078  
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Originally Posted by wcalaker View Post
My spur gear seems to be hitting the upper deck. The gear wobbles quite a bit. I think its time for a new gear adapter. Is the aluminum one worth getting?
I'll tell you next week since I just ordered one today, but I've got to think it is better than the plastic piece. I almost missed a race last night because of the plastic one and my spur gear is wobbling now too.
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Old 01-26-2012, 05:17 PM
  #13079  
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Hey, I just finished building my new TC5. I'm only just getting back into racing after a long break. This is a brand new original TC5 FT (with front & rear ball diffs and plastic outdrives), but I have used the stock standard "R" rubber tyre setup on the AE website (and not the too hard, foam tyre based kit settings).

Still getting used to painting, so don't laugh at my bodyshell too hard

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to put weight, and how much ? I was thinking perhaps 10grams each in front and in the rear of the battery ?

I will be ordering the AE lipo battery holder, and perhaps the front spool asap.

Cheers




Last edited by Losiho; 01-26-2012 at 06:51 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-26-2012, 05:56 PM
  #13080  
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Originally Posted by 06meanstreak View Post
I'll tell you next week since I just ordered one today, but I've got to think it is better than the plastic piece. I almost missed a race last night because of the plastic one and my spur gear is wobbling now too.
Who makes an aluminum one?
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