Team Associated TC5
09-01-2011, 08:10 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
i dont get the problem with steering. i generally set my epa so the knuckle arm just starts to overlap the rollbar lower ball mount. for my savox 72% epa on each side.
maybe 5ft turning radius?
if your trying to lock your steering, do you ever have your front belt start to flap against your servo saver on full lock? i cant figure out what causes it other than possibly needing a new belt.
maybe 5ft turning radius?
if your trying to lock your steering, do you ever have your front belt start to flap against your servo saver on full lock? i cant figure out what causes it other than possibly needing a new belt.
09-01-2011, 11:02 AM
Tech Fanatic
Olly, got a chance to look at the car a little more. I have a question about setting toe. Might also explain what you were talking about with setting the steering, I might not have understood completely. Rear toe is set by adding a toe shim inside the rear arm mount and/or chancing rear hub carrier, easy enough. Front toe is where I really have a question. The manual shows 2 shims per side (1 front, 1 rear) inside the front a-arm mount. Is that how you set the toe on the TC5? Get both steering links to equal length, then just adjust at the a-arm? I was thinking you'd adjust toe by adjusting the length of the steering links like most cars, but apparently not? A little confused.
Also a question about balance. Obviously a lot of talk about balancing the TC5 with LiPos. Was the car balanced with NiMH batteries or was balance still a problem with those?
Also a question about balance. Obviously a lot of talk about balancing the TC5 with LiPos. Was the car balanced with NiMH batteries or was balance still a problem with those?
for the front again you are right, you set it by changing the steering link lengh, I use a setup board to do this, but you can also use shims like the rear, it changes the way the car handles, inboard or outboard settings.
I use -1 to +1 front toe depending on track.
Hope this clarify your questions
09-01-2011, 12:43 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
It does answer it, thanks. I still have my setup board and 1/10 setup system, so I'm in good shape. Hadn't been used in a looong time until I decided to build a drift car a few months back. 
Anyone have an answer on whether the TC5 was balanced with NiMh batteries? I've read that it was, or at least drove as if it was balanced. Makes me wonder if part of the problem with the behavior of the car with LiPo is the fact you have 6 cutout slots in the bottom which are allowed to flex when there aren't any cells b/w them. Man, I wish I could run these Reedy LiPos with this motor. I might drop a milder motor in it and run with the Reedys, then with a flat LiPo to see if the car behaves differently. If someone made a LiPo that was shaped like a 6cell we'd be in business.
Anyone have an answer on whether the TC5 was balanced with NiMh batteries? I've read that it was, or at least drove as if it was balanced. Makes me wonder if part of the problem with the behavior of the car with LiPo is the fact you have 6 cutout slots in the bottom which are allowed to flex when there aren't any cells b/w them. Man, I wish I could run these Reedy LiPos with this motor. I might drop a milder motor in it and run with the Reedys, then with a flat LiPo to see if the car behaves differently. If someone made a LiPo that was shaped like a 6cell we'd be in business.
09-01-2011, 01:48 PM
Just pushing the battery outboard until the car balances works fine. I wouldnt recomend the ae lipo tray though. Doesnt work with flipped belts. I had toget creative with spacers and long screws to make it work and it tweaked my chassis. Gonna make something out of acrylic instead.
09-01-2011, 02:47 PM
Tech Fanatic
It does answer it, thanks. I still have my setup board and 1/10 setup system, so I'm in good shape. Hadn't been used in a looong time until I decided to build a drift car a few months back.
Anyone have an answer on whether the TC5 was balanced with NiMh batteries? I've read that it was, or at least drove as if it was balanced. Makes me wonder if part of the problem with the behavior of the car with LiPo is the fact you have 6 cutout slots in the bottom which are allowed to flex when there aren't any cells b/w them. Man, I wish I could run these Reedy LiPos with this motor. I might drop a milder motor in it and run with the Reedys, then with a flat LiPo to see if the car behaves differently. If someone made a LiPo that was shaped like a 6cell we'd be in business.
Anyone have an answer on whether the TC5 was balanced with NiMh batteries? I've read that it was, or at least drove as if it was balanced. Makes me wonder if part of the problem with the behavior of the car with LiPo is the fact you have 6 cutout slots in the bottom which are allowed to flex when there aren't any cells b/w them. Man, I wish I could run these Reedy LiPos with this motor. I might drop a milder motor in it and run with the Reedys, then with a flat LiPo to see if the car behaves differently. If someone made a LiPo that was shaped like a 6cell we'd be in business.
Just pushing the battery outboard until the car balances works fine. I wouldnt recomend the ae lipo tray though. Doesnt work with flipped belts. I had toget creative with spacers and long screws to make it work and it tweaked my chassis. Gonna make something out of acrylic instead.
09-01-2011, 07:14 PM
what would be the effect of raising the top deck up 1-2mm with the blue alu spacers for/aft to make enough room for the stock mount to slip under? then you could move the mount forward so its inline with the rear bulkhead, drill some new holes in the chassi and one through the top deck itself and into the top of the motor mount. could move the motor in 5-7mm that way. run a xray 110 ish spur and larger pinion.
also moves the weight more forward on the chassis. just a thought. cant really do anything without modifying the top deck though.
also moves the weight more forward on the chassis. just a thought. cant really do anything without modifying the top deck though.
09-02-2011, 06:01 AM
Tech Fanatic
what would be the effect of raising the top deck up 1-2mm with the blue alu spacers for/aft to make enough room for the stock mount to slip under? then you could move the mount forward so its inline with the rear bulkhead, drill some new holes in the chassi and one through the top deck itself and into the top of the motor mount. could move the motor in 5-7mm that way. run a xray 110 ish spur and larger pinion.
also moves the weight more forward on the chassis. just a thought. cant really do anything without modifying the top deck though.
also moves the weight more forward on the chassis. just a thought. cant really do anything without modifying the top deck though.
09-02-2011, 07:39 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Beginning to remember why I gave up TC. Haven't even put the car on the track yet and I have a headache LOL. Going to go run some 1/8 nitro offroad this weekend to clear my head. No precision required.
09-02-2011, 10:23 PM
this car isn't really that hard to set up. you just have to add weight to keep it ballanced with lipo and learn to drive it.
Id just try one of rick's setups and tweak it to your track conditions. ive altered his 2009 setup very little just for my own skill level and comfort on our track.
this weekend though ill be modifying my chassis trying to move the motor inboard somewhat. also fab a lipo tray that wont tweak the chassis.
right now im weighed at almost 1500 grams lol. 80grams added to make the 1480 weight requirement, and more still to balance the car.
Id just try one of rick's setups and tweak it to your track conditions. ive altered his 2009 setup very little just for my own skill level and comfort on our track.
this weekend though ill be modifying my chassis trying to move the motor inboard somewhat. also fab a lipo tray that wont tweak the chassis.
right now im weighed at almost 1500 grams lol. 80grams added to make the 1480 weight requirement, and more still to balance the car.
09-03-2011, 09:48 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Now that I've gone through the car I have a couple more questions, particularly about reading the setup sheets:
1) Wheelbase settings. There's a total of 3mm shims on the inner hinge pin, but they only give one measurement, and the diagram on setup sheet shows the front shim only. So, I assume 2mm means 2mm in front, 1 behind, 1mm would be 1 in front, 2 behind, etc?
2) Arm mount shims. Sometimes they show rear shim only, sometimes a front and rear, both for forward mount and rearward mount. Looks like the shims are used to widen the car slightly, as well as adjust toe. So, if I see a rearward setting with front arm mount spacing at 2mm, rear at 3 deg + 1mm, they've just widened the car slightly and are running a little less than 3deg toe in?
3) Belt tension. Cam A, rear at positon 12, front at position 1. That sound about right? Car has very little runtime on it, almost no wear on outdrives. Front belt still feels a hair tight, but maybe it will loosen a little with running.
4) I need new arm mounts, I'm missing a 2 dot. Tower/Great Planes doesn't show that part number (31195) anymore. Can I use the TC6 arm mounts (31321), or are they different?
1) Wheelbase settings. There's a total of 3mm shims on the inner hinge pin, but they only give one measurement, and the diagram on setup sheet shows the front shim only. So, I assume 2mm means 2mm in front, 1 behind, 1mm would be 1 in front, 2 behind, etc?
2) Arm mount shims. Sometimes they show rear shim only, sometimes a front and rear, both for forward mount and rearward mount. Looks like the shims are used to widen the car slightly, as well as adjust toe. So, if I see a rearward setting with front arm mount spacing at 2mm, rear at 3 deg + 1mm, they've just widened the car slightly and are running a little less than 3deg toe in?
3) Belt tension. Cam A, rear at positon 12, front at position 1. That sound about right? Car has very little runtime on it, almost no wear on outdrives. Front belt still feels a hair tight, but maybe it will loosen a little with running.
4) I need new arm mounts, I'm missing a 2 dot. Tower/Great Planes doesn't show that part number (31195) anymore. Can I use the TC6 arm mounts (31321), or are they different?
09-03-2011, 10:01 AM
Tech Fanatic
Now that I've gone through the car I have a couple more questions, particularly about reading the setup sheets:
1) Wheelbase settings. There's a total of 3mm shims on the inner hinge pin, but they only give one measurement, and the diagram on setup sheet shows the front shim only. So, I assume 2mm means 2mm in front, 1 behind, 1mm would be 1 in front, 2 behind, etc? Yes got that one in one
2) Arm mount shims. Sometimes they show rear shim only, sometimes a front and rear, both for forward mount and rearward mount. Looks like the shims are used to widen the car slightly, as well as adjust toe. So, if I see a rearward setting with front arm mount spacing at 2mm, rear at 3 deg + 1mm, they've just widened the car slightly and are running a little less than 3deg toe in? it is mainly to widen the track and to set your toe at back
3) Belt tension. Cam A, rear at positon 12, front at position 1. That sound about right? Car has very little runtime on it, almost no wear on outdrives. Front belt still feels a hair tight, but maybe it will loosen a little with running. don't expect too much loosing AE belts are the best and nearly undestructible, I never followed the book set up for my belt but adjusted as I wanted it, but manual set up is good, if the front feels a little stiff, loose it by one notch at the time until you are satisfied
4) I need new arm mounts, I'm missing a 2 dot. Tower/Great Planes doesn't show that part number (31195) anymore. Can I use the TC6 arm mounts (31321), or are they different? They are the same and if you get a TC6 set you will get 0 mount too
1) Wheelbase settings. There's a total of 3mm shims on the inner hinge pin, but they only give one measurement, and the diagram on setup sheet shows the front shim only. So, I assume 2mm means 2mm in front, 1 behind, 1mm would be 1 in front, 2 behind, etc? Yes got that one in one
2) Arm mount shims. Sometimes they show rear shim only, sometimes a front and rear, both for forward mount and rearward mount. Looks like the shims are used to widen the car slightly, as well as adjust toe. So, if I see a rearward setting with front arm mount spacing at 2mm, rear at 3 deg + 1mm, they've just widened the car slightly and are running a little less than 3deg toe in? it is mainly to widen the track and to set your toe at back
3) Belt tension. Cam A, rear at positon 12, front at position 1. That sound about right? Car has very little runtime on it, almost no wear on outdrives. Front belt still feels a hair tight, but maybe it will loosen a little with running. don't expect too much loosing AE belts are the best and nearly undestructible, I never followed the book set up for my belt but adjusted as I wanted it, but manual set up is good, if the front feels a little stiff, loose it by one notch at the time until you are satisfied
4) I need new arm mounts, I'm missing a 2 dot. Tower/Great Planes doesn't show that part number (31195) anymore. Can I use the TC6 arm mounts (31321), or are they different? They are the same and if you get a TC6 set you will get 0 mount too
09-03-2011, 01:51 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Awesome. After finally having some time to go through the car I feel like I have a pretty good understanding for how it works. It's in good shape too. Guy said he only put 3 packs through it and it sure looks like it. No wear or dings on outdrives, bearings all in good shape, no wear on spur gear, no scratches on bulkheads, nothing bent. Thanks for the help. Soon as I get the LiPo tray and antenna tube in next week I'll be able to put it together and run it. Gonna burn a little nitro and get dirty tomorrow. 
Dangit, one more thing. What's the offset on the stock AE wheels? I have a set of Yoko wheels from BITD, but it looks like the offest is different, and back of my mind I seem to remember they were. My digital calipers quit on me, so I can't measure it.
Dangit, one more thing. What's the offset on the stock AE wheels? I have a set of Yoko wheels from BITD, but it looks like the offest is different, and back of my mind I seem to remember they were. My digital calipers quit on me, so I can't measure it.
Last edited by cjtamu; 09-03-2011 at 02:04 PM.
09-03-2011, 02:44 PM
Tech Fanatic
Awesome. After finally having some time to go through the car I feel like I have a pretty good understanding for how it works. It's in good shape too. Guy said he only put 3 packs through it and it sure looks like it. No wear or dings on outdrives, bearings all in good shape, no wear on spur gear, no scratches on bulkheads, nothing bent. Thanks for the help. Soon as I get the LiPo tray and antenna tube in next week I'll be able to put it together and run it. Gonna burn a little nitro and get dirty tomorrow.
Dangit, one more thing. What's the offset on the stock AE wheels? I have a set of Yoko wheels from BITD, but it looks like the offest is different, and back of my mind I seem to remember they were. My digital calipers quit on me, so I can't measure it.
Dangit, one more thing. What's the offset on the stock AE wheels? I have a set of Yoko wheels from BITD, but it looks like the offest is different, and back of my mind I seem to remember they were. My digital calipers quit on me, so I can't measure it.
You can always fit a shim inside the wheel hex to make a different offset, get some solaris, Sorex or even Sweep in 36 if you race in hot temp. Lipo tray is not very good unfortunately.
09-03-2011, 04:15 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
09-03-2011, 07:50 PM
alright. Low tech, but managed to get the motor in line with the bulkhead for $0.
Hacksaw and Dremel were used.
cut the screw hole off the one side of the motor mount. just cut through the bars into the center with hacksaw. used a fine metal file to errode the top of the mount to fit under the top deck.
slotted the stock mount holes inward to allow adjustment. would have been tricky to get the holes just right otherwise.
trimmed the top deck slightly with a sanding drum.
motor sits flush to the rear bulkhead. i flipped the pinion around and the mesh is all good.
all my equipment layed out on the chassis. NO WEIGHT ADDED
the money shot. not perfect but balanced without added weight.
still have to strip the weights off my lipo retainer and maybe add some holes to the chassis to allow adjustment.
Hacksaw and Dremel were used.
cut the screw hole off the one side of the motor mount. just cut through the bars into the center with hacksaw. used a fine metal file to errode the top of the mount to fit under the top deck. slotted the stock mount holes inward to allow adjustment. would have been tricky to get the holes just right otherwise.
trimmed the top deck slightly with a sanding drum.
motor sits flush to the rear bulkhead. i flipped the pinion around and the mesh is all good.
all my equipment layed out on the chassis. NO WEIGHT ADDED
the money shot. not perfect but balanced without added weight.
still have to strip the weights off my lipo retainer and maybe add some holes to the chassis to allow adjustment.