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Old 07-11-2010, 03:00 PM   #12511
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Why hasnt this guys IP been banned yet?
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Old 07-11-2010, 03:25 PM   #12512
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Why hasnt this guys IP been banned yet?
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Old 07-11-2010, 04:43 PM   #12513
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+1, should have seen a rant from him coming, he runs a spool in the rear and posts how fast his cars go in his signature...at least he kept his screws
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Old 07-11-2010, 04:59 PM   #12514
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Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post
I threw my TC5 in the trash - took all the M3 screws out for a backup for spares.

A "factory team" lately has been a TOTAL disapointment.

Vague support from AE on the phone, shallow instructions although I use Pro E, Solidworks, and a full AutoDesk Suite myself.

AE has sold out.

If you wanna complain or whine about my bitch, download their current instructions VS their old and full instructions. If I submitted a Solidworks Assy guide on that caliber I would kill myself, and the whole AE department should fall on their swords for the same very reason.

The TC5 is an attempt of a re-hash abortion of the old skool TRF415, with nothing but sloppy tolerances, espcially with their "innovated" bulkhead mounted front and rear arms.

I would've been fired for publishing that crap, never mind the current instructions.

So, happy hunting - if the TC6 is even halfway built like this, which is exactly what I've seen, then I salute you all while you swear my name under your breath as I beat you on the track with any other car.

Point blank.
if ae sucks so bad then go to tamiya thread and leave us that have inferior cars alone thank you best regard proud ae racer and customer
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Last edited by mr crum; 07-11-2010 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 07-11-2010, 05:03 PM   #12515
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+1
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Old 07-11-2010, 07:46 PM   #12516
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Maybe he's a newb to race spec TCs or putting kits together wtih no mechanical skills.

While I agree the AE TC5r instructions were a little lacking when it came to text explanations for each step the diagrams were very clear and there really wasn't any need for text with the clear pictures. I picked up a TC5r after being out of the hobby for about 10 years and it went together without any problems in a couple of evenings (apart from the diff bolts... grrr ).

In my opinion the instructions needed some more text explanations if the car was your first one ever and you didn't have any idea on what you were doing and completely lacking in mechanical skills but if you're even slightly mechanically inclined they were clear and easy to follow. I don't think AE is targetting this at first timers though based on the fact that the car is a chassis only and they have the TC4 RTR kits already.

This guy caused the original TC6 thread to be deleted and now he's spreading garbage in the TC5 thread. Where are the mods.
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:45 PM   #12517
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+1
+1 (internet thugs )

I understand you're voicing your opinion but a lot of people here don't seem to have issues with their builds. I haven't built up a kit in over 5 years and I had it done in a few hours.

And as for the TRF415 comment. Take a look at all the top ranking cars out there and compare them, they're all pretty similar.
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:05 PM   #12518
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Could you guys please not quote that guy? It's defeating the purpose of having him on my "ignore" list
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:43 PM   #12519
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Hi Guys

My TC5R build is coming on thanks to the forum help, I've got a question regarding the front arm mounting block shims.

The 1.5deg toe in on the front is achieved from the turnbuckle so (I guess) the front arm pivot should be parallel to the centreline, ie same thickness shims under each mounting block.

Does anyone have a good starting point for the thickness of the shims for a rubber car as the manual is not clear on this point?

Thanks
Tim
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Old 07-12-2010, 12:12 AM   #12520
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Originally Posted by TimH View Post
Hi Guys

My TC5R build is coming on thanks to the forum help, I've got a question regarding the front arm mounting block shims.

The 1.5deg toe in on the front is achieved from the turnbuckle so (I guess) the front arm pivot should be parallel to the centreline, ie same thickness shims under each mounting block.

Does anyone have a good starting point for the thickness of the shims for a rubber car as the manual is not clear on this point?

Thanks
Tim
I have all 4 set with the thinnest shim, I believe it's 1mm. I think it's what the manual said to do. I'm also interested in trying out Rick Howart's 13.5 set up I found on RC10.com.
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:19 AM   #12521
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Originally Posted by An6e1o_414 View Post
I have all 4 set with the thinnest shim, I believe it's 1mm. I think it's what the manual said to do. I'm also interested in trying out Rick Howart's 13.5 set up I found on RC10.com.
Thanks for that, I'll give 1mm all round at the front a try.
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Old 07-12-2010, 03:42 PM   #12522
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I have a question. Will the asc31280 ball studs work with 4-40 RPM ball cups? Thanks.
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:06 PM   #12523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimH View Post
Hi Guys

My TC5R build is coming on thanks to the forum help, I've got a question regarding the front arm mounting block shims.

The 1.5deg toe in on the front is achieved from the turnbuckle so (I guess) the front arm pivot should be parallel to the centreline, ie same thickness shims under each mounting block.

Does anyone have a good starting point for the thickness of the shims for a rubber car as the manual is not clear on this point?

Thanks
Tim
The "standard" rubber setup calls for no shims behind the front suspension mounts.
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:42 PM   #12524
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I have a question. Will the asc31280 ball studs work with 4-40 RPM ball cups? Thanks.
Yes, they will.
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:51 PM   #12525
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your sure?
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