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Old 12-16-2009, 10:46 AM
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hey rick are the team drivers planning on putting set-ups from the ko race in 17.5 and 13.5 as well as mod on the ae website soon?
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:00 AM
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Rick is it possible to have a picture of your car ?
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by isuzuguy View Post
hey rick are the team drivers planning on putting set-ups from the ko race in 17.5 and 13.5 as well as mod on the ae website soon?
I will pst my 13.5 and Mod setup plus Chris Jarosz's 17.5 setup. They should ne up by the weekend.

Originally Posted by kerb View Post
Rick is it possible to have a picture of your car ?
I don't know how to post pics but if someone wants to do it I can email a pic of each car to them and they can post them. PM me.
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:54 AM
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cool thks rick!
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Old 12-16-2009, 02:16 PM
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Hey Rick, I really appreciate your input on these forums, and pics would be great.

Can you comment on the servo mod some guys are doing to turn the servo 90 degrees? Do any factory guys do it? If so do you think it is worth doing?

Thanks

Neal
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Old 12-16-2009, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
The TC5 is around 3years old? I'd hope the new xray would be more advanced
I am still wondering what the other competitors are to the TC5R which I can purchase.

What are the latest models from Tamiya, Kyosho, Xray, Serpent,Losi, team Magic whoever that are the competitors to the TC5R. Insights also helpful.

Model numbers if you have them, so I can start my research comparison before I decide.

Thanks so much in advance.

Jim
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Old 12-16-2009, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
Hey Rick, I really appreciate your input on these forums, and pics would be great.

Can you comment on the servo mod some guys are doing to turn the servo 90 degrees? Do any factory guys do it? If so do you think it is worth doing?

Thanks

Neal
Some factory guys do it. I don't. As it has been explained ot me, it increases the resolution of the steering so that the servo moves more for the same amount of steering movement. This is supposed to give the steering a smoother feel. You can't get the exact same results, but by lowering the servo saver ball you do the same thing. It is just no as big a change. This is what I do.

It is a good modification if you have the ability to do it.
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Old 12-16-2009, 02:49 PM
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Here are the pics of my KO cars.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC5-tc5a.jpg   Team Associated TC5-tc5b.jpg   Team Associated TC5-tc5c.jpg  
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Old 12-16-2009, 02:50 PM
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Bigger
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC5-tc5a.ps.jpg   Team Associated TC5-tc5b.ps.jpg   Team Associated TC5-tc5c.ps.jpg  
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Old 12-16-2009, 02:59 PM
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Thanks for the pics Rick, Couple questions.. Are the ballstuds your using gold and in the pics Griegs bulkheads don't appear to use composite layshaft caps, is this observation correct? Thanks for your time.
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:02 PM
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You're correct, greigs bulkheads don't use the composite layshaft caps.... the bearings fit directly into the bulkhead..
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:04 PM
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so here is my question. i have see the bulkhead, and where to get it(guy in england) and some what of how to do it. but just to makesure i would have to thin out where the motor mount attaches to the bulk head by both half on the mount and the bulk head? correct? then drill the corrosponding holes in the chassis? but will moving the motor in 5mm really give that much more? just a little constructive criticizim. i am thinking of doing this mod but i really dont know if it is worth ruining $60 in parts. also what are you using fot tools? a dremel or a mill? thanks
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by poncec23 View Post
so here is my question. i have see the bulkhead, and where to get it(guy in england) and some what of how to do it. but just to makesure i would have to thin out where the motor mount attaches to the bulk head by both half on the mount and the bulk head? correct? then drill the corrosponding holes in the chassis? but will moving the motor in 5mm really give that much more? just a little constructive criticizim. i am thinking of doing this mod but i really dont know if it is worth ruining $60 in parts. also what are you using fot tools? a dremel or a mill? thanks
For the UK bulkheads, you will not have to drill any new holes anywhere.The motor mount section floats above the chassis so the only holes used to mount the whole thing are the same holes that mount the stock bulkhead. The only thing you will have to do is enlarge the opening for the motor so that it can mount to the new motor mount position. I suggest opening the hole completely rather than grinding the thickness of the chassis down as is done by the factory on the outside edge.

A dremel and a small sanding drum is all you will need and it will take 30 seconds to do. The only drawback to the part is that you have to remove the bulkhead to change spur gears. But this is not even that hard and spur gear changes are not done that often anyway. Moving the motor in should make a difference as will lowering the layshaft. To me it is worth is and I feel it makes a difference.

What has been done ot the 13.5 car is similar to what you explained. This is a much more difficult task that I would not try on your own unless you have the proper equipment.
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Well, I have been running a modified factory motor mount/bulkhead that moves the motor in and removed the front leg of the motor mount so changing to the UK bulkheads was not as big a difference to me as it would be to someone with stock parts.

I could not tell a difference lowering the layshaft but I think visually the cars look better this way and in theory the lower CG (even if small difference) should be better. The only problem I encountered was the fact that when you run the front diff at full low (which I do) the belt if very close to hitting the chassis. In fact I can see that it did hit the chassis at time but I think this was not something that would happen under normal circumstances.

But I would recommend enlarging the opening at the front of the car and/or bevel the chassis slightly so that the belt has more space. If you never run the diffs full low, it is unnecessary. i think the bulkheads are a good hop-up. Plus once I contacted Greig and made the purchase and had the parts within a few days.

With the AE LiPo retainer I am easily able to balance the car left to right and be under the 1425g minimum.

The other new thing I was using which is not such a bid deal is aluminum screws from the 12r%.1 screw kit. I used these on the top deck, bearing caps, and shock tower mounts. These scews will be avaialble seperately shortly. I also used one other new item that I can't mention but they will be released in the next week or so although this part does not really make a highe difference in performance. It is more of a durability/bling part.
Thanks for the reply, Rick. How does running the diff low affect performance of the car?
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by trerc View Post
Thanks for the pics Rick, Couple questions.. Are the ballstuds your using gold and in the pics Griegs bulkheads don't appear to use composite layshaft caps, is this observation correct? Thanks for your time.
You are correct - gold ball studs (test parts) and no caps.
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