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Old 09-03-2009, 08:49 PM   #10726
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Default Thanks again.

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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
Motors need to be sensored to run in ROAR events (but I don't believe they have to be driven by sensored mode, ie the Tekin RS settings). That rule has sprinkled down to many clubs as it should. Its not just cogging anymore, its now about needing sensored (supposedly) to get the advanced timing that the new generation of speed controls can achieve. Some still use brushed motors I am sure, but the trend for the past 2 yrs+ has been moving toward brushless. More sticker shock, less dirty work in the end.

A spool is essentially a locked differential. Actually thats not the way to explain it. Without a differential, its nothing like a differential LOL. Its a straight axle. It helps in low-bite conditions like asphalt, gives very consistent braking, less turn in, but more on power steering exiting a corner.

Rubber tires? Depends on the track you are at. Talk to the locals there.

I have a good start now, and like everyone else I'll take my lumps and learn from the experience.

Jim
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:20 AM   #10727
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Originally Posted by Lugnutz1 View Post
anybody?
I Don't use the foams, they will generate too much Rebound in your shocks. You want to have none or maybe 10%/20% rebound outdoors.

Indoor you want te have a bit more rebound, but then I still don't use them.

Best Regards,

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Old 09-04-2009, 11:58 AM   #10728
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I ordered myself a TC5R this morning, is there anything i should know specificly for this car's build-up, thanks, for any input
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:29 PM   #10729
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Originally Posted by JATOdriver View Post
I ordered myself a TC5R this morning, is there anything i should know specificly for this car's build-up, thanks, for any input
When building the diffs put everything together except the spring and t-nut. When you are ready to put the spring in and tighten the t-nut, compress the spring with a pair of pliers for about 2 minutes then install spring and tighten nut. Do not wait any time to install the spring or it will go back to the original size. Do not over tighten the nut or it will strip. If you here it pop, it is junk and need a new nut.
If you do this with the spring it is very easy to put together, if you dont, it is very hard if not impossible.
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Old 09-05-2009, 05:19 AM   #10730
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I would actually advise buying AS6575 ASSOCIATED T-NUT AND THRUST BOLT to build your diff with as it i have never had one strip and you can just build the diff in anger like any diff from any other car. Hope this helps
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Old 09-05-2009, 07:55 AM   #10731
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Originally Posted by John_S View Post
I would actually advise buying AS6575 ASSOCIATED T-NUT AND THRUST BOLT to build your diff with as it i have never had one strip and you can just build the diff in anger like any diff from any other car. Hope this helps
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Old 09-05-2009, 07:58 AM   #10732
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Originally Posted by JATOdriver View Post
I ordered myself a TC5R this morning, is there anything i should know specificly for this car's build-up, thanks, for any input
when buildin slipper spool make sure u use the thrust balls lust like a diff if u dont use them it will loosen up on u guareteed
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:20 PM   #10733
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Default Braking jitter

Hi,
had a quick question and was wondering if anyone else is experiencing the same.............
when i tap the brake the car seems to jack itself slightly to the opposite side of the turn.
Is this common?
Everything is balanced, all four corners are smooth, etc..
car setup is super for me.
Just this little brake jerk to one side is screwing me up.

ohh...i am running a solid spool up front and a medium setting on rear diff.
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:12 AM   #10734
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Could it be a possible brake lock up?

I took my TC5 to a 2nd finish in the B-Main in my state titles with a run that might've got me into the A-Main being the highest placed TC5 for Stock Tourer in the event. The car went awesome for the whole event.

At the 1 minute mark is my car during practice
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:35 AM   #10735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
Hi,
had a quick question and was wondering if anyone else is experiencing the same.............
when i tap the brake the car seems to jack itself slightly to the opposite side of the turn.
Is this common?
Everything is balanced, all four corners are smooth, etc..
car setup is super for me.
Just this little brake jerk to one side is screwing me up.

ohh...i am running a solid spool up front and a medium setting on rear diff.
I've got the same issue, and I've noticed that when I "slam" te brakes the car does this, when I am more gentle at my brakes It's not that much.

It has also something to do with the set-up, but I'm not quit sure what it is. It seems to me that there travels a lot of weight when you slam the brakes from back to foreward. With some of my set-ups I have this issue more then others and think it has to do with the position of the spring and the spring its self. Maybe they are the straigth up, and maybe to soft... Try being more gentle on the brakes. The "better" braking is not blocking the wheels but slowing down hard enough, just soften your brakes a bit more. That helped a lot for me

Best Regards,

Robert
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Old 09-07-2009, 05:50 AM   #10736
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Are the shocks all built with same amount of rebound, pistons.. Makes sure the shocks are built right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
Hi,
had a quick question and was wondering if anyone else is experiencing the same.............
when i tap the brake the car seems to jack itself slightly to the opposite side of the turn.
Is this common?
Everything is balanced, all four corners are smooth, etc..
car setup is super for me.
Just this little brake jerk to one side is screwing me up.

ohh...i am running a solid spool up front and a medium setting on rear diff.
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Old 09-07-2009, 06:07 AM   #10737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
Hi,
had a quick question and was wondering if anyone else is experiencing the same.............
when i tap the brake the car seems to jack itself slightly to the opposite side of the turn.
Is this common?
Everything is balanced, all four corners are smooth, etc..
car setup is super for me.
Just this little brake jerk to one side is screwing me up.

ohh...i am running a solid spool up front and a medium setting on rear diff.
I would check that you have equal rear droop left to right. Since the rear jacks up onto the droop screws under hard braking, a slight difference in the droop screws would cause your car to steer left or right.

Another problem might be if your car bottoms out under hard breaking.

regards

Neal
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:15 AM   #10738
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Default TC5 Thermal

Hi,

I just got a TC5R and thought I'd try this question here...

Got a overheating scenario I'd like to run by some of the experienced RC TC5 drivers.

I've got a TC5R, stock kit setup, Novak Havoc Sport Brushless 17.5 system, 40 Sweep tires, 94731 Airtronics servo, use a Reedy 5000mah 20C lipo battery, and run a 3.89 FDR with a pinion of 37 and spur of 72. I race outdoor parking lot asphalt.

I usually thermal on the last lap of my race, somewhere around 4-6 minutes of driving, the ESC will shutdown because temps reach around 160 degrees.

I'm going to try a few things in this order:

1: Change my tires to sorex 36s. I noticed my car sliding a lot, so getting better grip and not wasting so much energy could bring the temp down.
2: Snap on a heat sink
3: install on a fan
4: Gear down a bit to a 35 or 36 pinion

I do like the punch/speed of the car, so that's why I'd like to try to mess with the gearing last if nothing else works. Anyone got opinions on how I'm trying to solve this thermal issue?

Thanks, Any help is appreciated.
AJ
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:12 PM   #10739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spam77 View Post
Hi,

I just got a TC5R and thought I'd try this question here...

Got a overheating scenario I'd like to run by some of the experienced RC TC5 drivers.

I've got a TC5R, stock kit setup, Novak Havoc Sport Brushless 17.5 system, 40 Sweep tires, 94731 Airtronics servo, use a Reedy 5000mah 20C lipo battery, and run a 3.89 FDR with a pinion of 37 and spur of 72. I race outdoor parking lot asphalt.

I usually thermal on the last lap of my race, somewhere around 4-6 minutes of driving, the ESC will shutdown because temps reach around 160 degrees.

I'm going to try a few things in this order:

1: Change my tires to sorex 36s. I noticed my car sliding a lot, so getting better grip and not wasting so much energy could bring the temp down.
2: Snap on a heat sink
3: install on a fan
4: Gear down a bit to a 35 or 36 pinion

I do like the punch/speed of the car, so that's why I'd like to try to mess with the gearing last if nothing else works. Anyone got opinions on how I'm trying to solve this thermal issue?

Thanks, Any help is appreciated.
AJ
get rid of that havoc i havent seen one that dont thermal go with a gtb or a speed passion never have that problem again
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:14 PM   #10740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
I've got the same issue, and I've noticed that when I "slam" te brakes the car does this, when I am more gentle at my brakes It's not that much.

It has also something to do with the set-up, but I'm not quit sure what it is. It seems to me that there travels a lot of weight when you slam the brakes from back to foreward. With some of my set-ups I have this issue more then others and think it has to do with the position of the spring and the spring its self. Maybe they are the straigth up, and maybe to soft... Try being more gentle on the brakes. The "better" braking is not blocking the wheels but slowing down hard enough, just soften your brakes a bit more. That helped a lot for me

Best Regards,

Robert
dont hit the brakes they only slow u down lol
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