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Old 09-01-2009, 09:44 PM   #10696
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Question for the set up gurus (maybe Rick H can help me on this one)

The setup im currently running uses a 3 wheelbase in the front, and 2 in the rear (IE, 3mm shim in front of the front arm, and 2mm in front of the rear arm). What would be the effect of going to a 2 in the front, and 1 in the back, keeping the wheelbase the same, but moving the arms forward and relative to the chassis?
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:22 PM   #10697
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Originally Posted by Mark506 View Post
whys everyone selling there TC5?
From what I can tell as asphalt season nears an end in many areas, people are getting ready for either offroad or carpet season....so they sell. I bought my TC5 a little over 2 years ago, and since have run a second car (007 and 008) and to this day, the TC5 still handles as well if not better then either "luxury car".

I've seen several of our areas better racers go away from the TC5 and then come back and buy another one. As new models come out people want to find the holly grail of sedans, often finding they gained nothing and only lost time and money.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:14 AM   #10698
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Default Arm mount positioning

Keeping the arms level, what affects do you have using the three different arm mounts?
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:22 AM   #10699
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Keeping the arms level, what affects do you have using the three different arm mounts?
You can get pro/anti-dive (front) and/or pro/anti squat doing this will effect castor angles so you wanna check how degrees of dive compared to the castor block. For example with 6 degree castor blocks with 2 degrees of anti-dive will give you a total of 4 degrees castor.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:24 AM   #10700
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Isn't that what you get when you use different mounts? I mean, if you ran all 1 dot mounts all the way around versus running 3 dot mounts all the way around.

--pakk
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:33 AM   #10701
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Originally Posted by pakk View Post
Isn't that what you get when you use different mounts? I mean, if you ran all 1 dot mounts all the way around versus running 3 dot mounts all the way around.

--pakk
That would just change your roll center.

Scooter is referring to using different dot blocks in the front front and front rear which will give you anti dive or kickup. Same difference for the rear.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:35 AM   #10702
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Ok, that is what I wanted to know.

It changes roll center.

Thanks
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Old 09-02-2009, 05:15 AM   #10703
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Question for the set up gurus (maybe Rick H can help me on this one)

The setup im currently running uses a 3 wheelbase in the front, and 2 in the rear (IE, 3mm shim in front of the front arm, and 2mm in front of the rear arm). What would be the effect of going to a 2 in the front, and 1 in the back, keeping the wheelbase the same, but moving the arms forward and relative to the chassis?
shorter the wheelbase the better turn in but u loose stability
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:39 AM   #10704
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Can anyone give me dimensions for the diff rings or drive rings that are used in a TC5 or TC4. And if they are D-rings???

OD/ID and thickness would be great.

thank you
Walter
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:18 AM   #10705
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Originally Posted by mr crum View Post
shorter the wheelbase the better turn in but u loose stability
Thats not what I am asking. In short, im wondering what will happen if you move both front and rear arms forward, but the wheelbase stays the same
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:50 AM   #10706
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Default Just got a new TC5R

Okay guys need some help. I just got the TC5R car and started buying a body some replacement parts etc.

I am also purchasing a Futaba 603FS reciever since I have a Futaba 4pk transmitter.
I also will purchase a Futaba low profile digital servo. Is that okay?

Need advice on the Motor and Esc.

What KV range should I be looking in to get good speed and balance of low end torque. What is a dependable unit with fan. Any thoughts on which units are more efficient with better run times. Mostly club racing, some cobbled together parking lots, mid to long straights quite a few turns and switch backs.

Castle, Novak, LRP --- any brand recommendations also.

Do these electrics require as many holes in body for cooling like the Nitros?


Jim
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:21 AM   #10707
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Originally Posted by authorjim View Post
Okay guys need some help. I just got the TC5R car and started buying a body some replacement parts etc.

I am also purchasing a Futaba 603FS reciever since I have a Futaba 4pk transmitter.
I also will purchase a Futaba low profile digital servo. Is that okay?

Need advice on the Motor and Esc.

What KV range should I be looking in to get good speed and balance of low end torque. What is a dependable unit with fan. Any thoughts on which units are more efficient with better run times. Mostly club racing, some cobbled together parking lots, mid to long straights quite a few turns and switch backs.

Castle, Novak, LRP --- any brand recommendations also.

Do these electrics require as many holes in body for cooling like the Nitros?


Jim
Racing or bashing? If racing, what class?
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Old 09-02-2009, 01:13 PM   #10708
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Thanks for the help guys, thanks joe I appreciate it. I think I am going to just run the diffs. Do you guys think a spool is 100% necessary on carpet? How about a 1 way? Any thoughts...
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Old 09-02-2009, 01:23 PM   #10709
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You wont dig running the diff in the front, look at all the driver sheets from the past few years adn they all run spools...all you need to do is remove the balls and put the slipper pads in...your choice though...You may fight setup if you are following a setup from a spooled car...
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:43 PM   #10710
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Default Class, what are the classes

To: or8ital

Trying to get some people together for parking lot club racing. I don't yet know about classes, please enlighten me.

Couple of more questions popped up, what's a spool?

What tires, by brand and what wheels?


Sorry for all the questions but I'm new at electric. Used to GT2 nitro.

Jim
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