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Team Associated TC5

Old 06-26-2009, 05:02 PM
  #9961  
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
2009 Reedy Race of Champions set up sheets for Juho Levanen and myself have now been added to AE's website.
I might to have a look a those, even though the chances of needing it are very low
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Old 06-27-2009, 03:13 AM
  #9962  
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Ok people, need some help. I've started to weiht my right and left side (using those smal holes in shock towers and some thread) and it appears that with my 2s2p LiIon battery (374g)on right side and GM Pro9 with heatisnk (~190g), Sr3000 (~12g) receiver, GM Genius 90 (90g) and KoPropo ICS-2413 low profile servo (44g) on the left side I need still about 90g (!!) lead on battery side.

Now there is a question: is it better to give so much weight low with lead or maybe it would be better to put ESC on the battery, would save about 90g. but CG would be very high. What is your opinion? Maybe some other solutions?
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Old 06-27-2009, 03:57 AM
  #9963  
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Default 90 gram of Lead

I tried that kind of layout the car was balance but the car handles kinda weird I think it's too light I even played around with suspension set up.

I would say stay with the lead weight. or something similar like lipo trays
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Old 06-27-2009, 06:40 AM
  #9964  
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Originally Posted by Kajman View Post
Ok people, need some help. I've started to weiht my right and left side (using those smal holes in shock towers and some thread) and it appears that with my 2s2p LiIon battery (374g)on right side and GM Pro9 with heatisnk (~190g), Sr3000 (~12g) receiver, GM Genius 90 (90g) and KoPropo ICS-2413 low profile servo (44g) on the left side I need still about 90g (!!) lead on battery side.

Now there is a question: is it better to give so much weight low with lead or maybe it would be better to put ESC on the battery, would save about 90g. but CG would be very high. What is your opinion? Maybe some other solutions?
use lead another thing u can try is put ur electronics as far in as possible
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Old 06-27-2009, 06:49 AM
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Well, it is as far in as possible:





I don't want to move battery more outside because then it falls out more easily. How much does your tc5 rtr weights? Mine now with all these without bodyshell 1440
I have to buy some lead, because of damn ecology real 1:1 wheels are weighted with iron, thats why for now I have plenty of these little 5g iron weights
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:32 AM
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If you are running nimh you should need that much weight on the battery side.
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:52 AM
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I run LiIon 2s2p 6000mAh, but anyway it is still light as 5cell NiMH - 374g I'll try to move receiver to the other side, always several grams less...
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:57 AM
  #9968  
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Originally Posted by Kajman View Post
I run LiIon 2s2p 6000mAh, but anyway it is still light as 5cell NiMH - 374g I'll try to move receiver to the other side, always several grams less...
How much does that heat sink weight? Can you go with out it? It looks like it weights a ton. But I think minimum weight is 1500g anyway. So you are still under.

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Old 06-27-2009, 08:20 AM
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Heatsinks weight 22g.
Without them is possible, but since we drive here for training 15minutes runs they are rather to stay
1440g whole car, but without bodyshell, so together with body we are far over 1500g But neither electronics nor battery are very heavy, so others have to face the same problem or something is overweighting me...
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:01 AM
  #9970  
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Default Spool instead of slipper spool

Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
I use a body reamer to dril out the spurgear holes. Then i use small flathead screws instead of the ball heads. Now the screws will not touch the topdeck any more.

The JAAD Racing spool is superb! really love that one!

Personally I don't like the slipper spool nor the rubber O rings on the topdeck, and got rid of them.

Greetings

Robert Krens
Is the JAAD racing spool better than the spool that you can see on the AE website?
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:17 AM
  #9971  
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Originally Posted by Kajman View Post
Well, it is as far in as possible:

*pics*

I don't want to move battery more outside because then it falls out more easily. How much does your tc5 rtr weights? Mine now with all these without bodyshell 1440
I have to buy some lead, because of damn ecology real 1:1 wheels are weighted with iron, thats why for now I have plenty of these little 5g iron weights
I noticed that the Blue wire is going over the other two motor wires, if you were to put the Blue under the Orange and Yellow I'd recken the wire would cleaner and tidier.
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:41 AM
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Default center shaft play

I just picked up a tc5 and noticed it has a decent amount of play in the center shaft. Not too much, but enough for me to ask about. The play seems to be between the pins and the plastic gears. I do have new plastic gears so I am assuming this is normal.

Are you guys leaving this alone? I am tempted to slip something over the pins to eliminate some of the play.

--pakk
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:17 AM
  #9973  
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Originally Posted by pakk View Post
I just picked up a tc5 and noticed it has a decent amount of play in the center shaft. Not too much, but enough for me to ask about. The play seems to be between the pins and the plastic gears. I do have new plastic gears so I am assuming this is normal.

Are you guys leaving this alone? I am tempted to slip something over the pins to eliminate some of the play.

--pakk
i didnt touch mine. i opened mine up during a spur gear change about a month ago to get some of the dust and carpet fuz out and noticed no wear at all, i was surprised.
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:45 AM
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Can anyone explain the effects of running more or less caster? The difference in 4 degree or 6? I seem to get different answers from everyone. I run 6 degree and havent tried anything else.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-28-2009, 10:26 AM
  #9975  
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Caster describes the angle c between the kingpin and the vertical plane. In case of a double wishbone-type of suspension, the axis through the centers of the ball links serves as a 'virtual hinge pin'. If the kingpin is leaning back, as in the pic, the caster angle is said to be positive. Negative caster (kingpin leaning towards the front) is never used. Note that the contact patch between the tire and the ground is behind the intersection point of the extension of the kingpin and the earth. (Dimension d) This will cause the wheels to 'trail'.
The caster angle will cause excessive camber in the front wheels as they are steered, lifting the front of the car up. This lifting effect is what causes the front wheels to have a tendency to straighten out when there's no steering force applied: when the wheels are pointed straight ahead, the chassis sits at its lowest position, steering the wheels requires some force, to lift the car up. When the force is removed, gravity will return the wheels to their original position. The bigger the caster angle, and the heavier the car, the stronger this effect is. Also, the bigger he caster angle, the bigger the camber difference induced when the wheels are steered. This camber difference is to compensate for the chassis roll and tire squirm when the car is cornering. Hence, a lot of caster will provide more steering in high-speed corners, where chassis roll is more pronounced, and whilst turning in. It will also make the car more stable in rough conditions, and the car's straight-line stabili ty will also be improved. A small caster angle will provide more steering in low-speed corners, and less turn-in.


Note that the caster angle isn't always constant. Cars with double wishbone suspension, where both wishbones aren't parallel, will experience a change in caster angle as the suspension is compressed or extended. If the lower wishbone has less kickup than the upper wishbone, the caster angle will decrease as the suspension compresses, like when the car is turning or braking. This is called 'reactive caster'.
Link - I reference that site frequently.

--pakk
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