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Old 01-08-2009, 05:12 PM
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hey verndog, that gearing sounds about right but i just got 189 update on my tekin and i need to gear lower with the boost timing. so 44 sounds good. i have to watch my temps. tekin is complicated. i miss my lrp
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Old 01-08-2009, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by IL_AudiRacer View Post
Thanks Rob

Do you by anychance know the Part # for the "Stealth Nut" ?? it seems that i have pulled the threads out on the ones supplied

Is this the correct 1 https://www.hobbyoutlets.com/store/hobby/6575.html?js=n
That is the correct nut
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Old 01-09-2009, 07:46 AM
  #8358  
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
make sure the nut is 100% seated at the bottom of the t holder thing. Sometimes it seems like it is, but you have to smash the crap out of it. Or just buy the stealth t nut for the offroad car, much easier since it's one piece.

Even knowing this I broke the t holder thingie... I wasn't 100% in. I tried a stealth t nut but it was worn some and the t-tops shreaded off cause they are smaller than the tc5 one. so I can't finish my diffs til I get more parts...build on hold I wish AE would tweak that mold so it's easier to get the nut in 100%!
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Old 01-09-2009, 08:04 AM
  #8359  
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Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
Even knowing this I broke the t holder thingie... I wasn't 100% in. I tried a stealth t nut but it was worn some and the t-tops shreaded off cause they are smaller than the tc5 one. so I can't finish my diffs til I get more parts...build on hold I wish AE would tweak that mold so it's easier to get the nut in 100%!
I know how you feel My diffs are currently on Hold due to stripping .
My problem wasnt with getting the nut seated it was getting the thrust bolt to grab to grab the T nut then the 2 times i did i guess i overtightened and stripped them the thrust bolts actually realeased with the threads from the nut still intact is this normal ?? it says to fully compress spring then back off but i cant get that far
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Old 01-09-2009, 08:59 AM
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Luckily mine order just arrived! ..

for new t holders you have to get the plastic outdrives kit, which have to be lighter than the alumium ones w/ my kit... I'm running 13.5, not anything hotter and always ran the plasitc ones in my Tc4s cause of the lighter weight/less unsprung weight. Any one comment on the tc5 plastic outdrives durability? I'm not to concerned too much w/ wear...would rather have less unsprung weight...but don't want to break one during a race either! I see they don't use the blades like the alum ones.

thanks.
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:11 AM
  #8361  
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Originally Posted by IL_AudiRacer View Post
I know how you feel My diffs are currently on Hold due to stripping .
My problem wasnt with getting the nut seated it was getting the thrust bolt to grab to grab the T nut then the 2 times i did i guess i overtightened and stripped them the thrust bolts actually realeased with the threads from the nut still intact is this normal ?? it says to fully compress spring then back off but i cant get that far
if u cant get the nut to grab the nut is not seated properly use a #2 pencil to seat it properly or get the t nut from a t3 offroad stadium truck i wish ae wouldve addressed this when they made the r and f cause its been a problem since it came out with the ft tc5
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Old 01-09-2009, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Truck_Buster View Post
What bodies do you guys run on carpet?

^^^^^^^^^^
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Old 01-09-2009, 02:38 PM
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What tires are on your car? Rubber or foam?
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Old 01-09-2009, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by IL_AudiRacer View Post
I know how you feel My diffs are currently on Hold due to stripping .
My problem wasnt with getting the nut seated it was getting the thrust bolt to grab to grab the T nut then the 2 times i did i guess i overtightened and stripped them the thrust bolts actually realeased with the threads from the nut still intact is this normal ?? it says to fully compress spring then back off but i cant get that far

The diff spacer/washer in the kit is too thick, there's a spare in one of the bags, use that and the bolt will reach the nut just fine. I used the kit tools to help me not to overtighten (too much torque from my regular tools.)
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Old 01-09-2009, 05:14 PM
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Some VERY interesting mods seen on the team cars at this weekends DHI-Cup race in Europe. Most noticable is the upper camber link. Pictures at www.redrc.net click on events.

If I run out of things to change on my car tomorrow whilst testing may try some of these out.....
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Old 01-09-2009, 05:41 PM
  #8366  
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I know that the diff nut holder is a PITA, but if the nut was looser in the holder it could spin inside the plastic and the diff wouldn't tighten up for that reason.

The plastice diffs should work fine for 13.5/17.5t. They just aren't quite good enough to run in full mod. Be sure to install the blue aluminum ring on the outdrive and you shouldn't have any durabilty issues.
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
I know that the diff nut holder is a PITA, but if the nut was looser in the holder it could spin inside the plastic and the diff wouldn't tighten up for that reason.

The plastice diffs should work fine for 13.5/17.5t. They just aren't quite good enough to run in full mod. Be sure to install the blue aluminum ring on the outdrive and you shouldn't have any durabilty issues.
ur exactly right sean it has been a problem since the first one built one question wat does pita mean
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:09 PM
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quick question for josh. Do you have a link to your most recent set-up sheet for trackside?
thanks.
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:34 PM
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Pain In The Ass
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
What tires are on your car? Rubber or foam?
rubber
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