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Old 05-19-2008, 09:35 PM   #5986
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Hey guys, Been a while since I've been in here.

I need to know how you guys are balancing your chassis' while running brushless and Lipo. I'm using the LRP TC and an orion 3600 pack if that help s out at all. I just need a side to side balance that will be close.

Thanks.
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:39 PM   #5987
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Toe on the arm also has an effect on the wheelbase, more on the arm = shorter wheelbase, where as toe at the hub does not effect the wheelbase, so when you change the toe at the arm you are changing your wheelbase as well.
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:45 PM   #5988
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I pretty much hate AE shocks They take me forever and frustrate me soooooooo bad. Is there a trick to these I don't know of? I follow the instructions with 0 foams and get a ton of rebound sometimes, but there are 0 air bubbles under the bladder,
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:16 AM   #5989
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
I pretty much hate AE shocks They take me forever and frustrate me soooooooo bad. Is there a trick to these I don't know of? I follow the instructions with 0 foams and get a ton of rebound sometimes, but there are 0 air bubbles under the bladder,
I hear ya. They don't go together quite as easily as a Tamiya TRF shock. The problem seems to be the bladder itself. The outside diameter is so big that it hangs up on the shock cap so when it hangs up it deforms allowing air in right when you begin to screw down the cap. The Tamiya shock bladders are just the right size in that they stay put even while screwing the cap down.
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Old 05-20-2008, 04:57 AM   #5990
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So basically with 2* arm and 1* hub you will have more turn in and less off compared to just 3* at the arm?
No, rear toe is how hard the car can rotate in the corner, on and off power. You can use it to help with on power rear traction but I prefur other methods for forward traction.

That might be why its more effective when its at the arm, it will change your wheel base. If the car rotates good in the corners but it has too much onpower rear traction then you can take 1 deg out of the arm and put it at the hub. This way you you keep the rotation part of it but change the onpower traction.

Normally, I just run 2.5 on the arm and leave it.

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Old 05-20-2008, 10:43 AM   #5991
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I hear ya. They don't go together quite as easily as a Tamiya TRF shock. The problem seems to be the bladder itself. The outside diameter is so big that it hangs up on the shock cap so when it hangs up it deforms allowing air in right when you begin to screw down the cap. The Tamiya shock bladders are just the right size in that they stay put even while screwing the cap down.
Do you use those foam things that go on the bladder?
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Old 05-20-2008, 01:55 PM   #5992
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Do you use those foam things that go on the bladder?

No foam or orings- too much rebound.
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Old 05-20-2008, 02:33 PM   #5993
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No foam or orings- too much rebound.

Ok, I leave nothing in my shocks also, but I still cant get the shaft to not push out when I tighten the cap. I suck at shock building I guess.
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Old 05-20-2008, 02:36 PM   #5994
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No, rear toe is how hard the car can rotate in the corner, on and off power. You can use it to help with on power rear traction but I prefur other methods for forward traction.

That might be why its more effective when its at the arm, it will change your wheel base. If the car rotates good in the corners but it has too much onpower rear traction then you can take 1 deg out of the arm and put it at the hub. This way you you keep the rotation part of it but change the onpower traction.

Normally, I just run 2.5 on the arm and leave it.

DK
I'm talking about compensating for the wheelbase as well. I realize the wb changes, but you still get the same results if you keep the wb the same.
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Old 05-20-2008, 04:58 PM   #5995
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Ok, I leave nothing in my shocks also, but I still cant get the shaft to not push out when I tighten the cap. I suck at shock building I guess.

move the shaft up in the body when you put the bladder in, it will remove more oil without letting air in
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:18 PM   #5996
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move the shaft up in the body when you put the bladder in, it will remove more oil without letting air in

Ahh ok I was leaving the shaft extended per the instructions, do you move the shaft up and down prior to putting the baldder on? Thats what we do with the off road shocks.
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Old 05-22-2008, 12:20 AM   #5997
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Got the car dialed in tonight, ran Cavs setup and it felt good. I had to run a 1.5mm silver front sway to keep the rear end from washing out in the turns, which made it a little tighter in the sweeper but with the new Mazda 6 body it didnt spin out so that was good. The thing I need now with the front sway is more high speed turning, as well as some low speed turn. Im going to assume that taking off the front sway will help, I think I will try to go down to 1.25mm to see if that helps.

Any ideas?
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:31 AM   #5998
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take the sway bar off and raise ur camber links in back will help the washout in the turns and also 3.5 degrees rear toe
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:01 AM   #5999
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Ahh ok I was leaving the shaft extended per the instructions, do you move the shaft up and down prior to putting the baldder on? Thats what we do with the off road shocks.
work it up and down to get the air out, and then move it up when you put the bladder on. make sure the pistion stays in its position while putting the bladder on
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:31 AM   #6000
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Got my TC5. Be sure to put a cloth in between the shock shaft and pliers when building the shocks to avoid scratching the shafts.
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