Brandon Melton

iTrader: (7)

One thing I have found that really "locks" in the rear end is to move the shock location to the inside hole on the rear A arm. This will make it kind of lazy and the car won't be as nimble, but will help rear grip on low traction surfaces.

You can also try a little more toe-in in the rear, that is a small and simple change that can yield good results. These two thing together should help a bunch.

The 3rd thing to try if these don't help which is a little more in depth is to use #2 pistons. I didn't see where you had modified this. The extra damping of #3's may not be letting your car get the weight back to the rear of car quick enough when on throttle out of low speed corner.

home13oy75

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the replies. I'll make a few changes tonight and let you know how it worked out for me tomorrow at the track.

I appreciate all the help!

corallyman

iTrader: (99)

I would try what Brandon suggests. Maybe then if it still isn't right then try 30 weight in the rear. The single most important thing however is to make sure you have the correct tires and they are still working. Ask your fellow racers on that.

Steve

bretzkej

iTrader: (7)

OK I finally got mine all built ITF Chassis and everything.
Few Questions:

I have the TC Spec with the 3.5 Vector motor, and when you turn the wheels the motor click as if the magnet are so strong. Is this normal? Just seems weird.

How tight is everyone making there belts?

home13oy75

iTrader: (11)

I noticed that I have a little play in my A arms. With the wheelbase shims in, the A arm can still slide a little along the hinge pin. IS this normal or should I have no play there?

corallyman

iTrader: (99)

Home13,

Its better to have a small amount of play then to have no play at all. If you get motor washers you can generally remove this play with those. There are generally 3 common thicknesses of motor washer shims. But again unless its alot of play which I doubt just run the car as is.

Steve

STARSCREAM

what a awesome build!!! great tolerances!!!

my only building tip for guys who havent built many TC's is.....

the wheel hex fit was tight on my car....if you encounter this, push the wheel hex as far as possible on the axle, then place a wheel from a old tire on the hex and tighten a wheel-locknut all the way down till the hex bottums out on the axle-pin....this should seat the hex against the pin....then install the hex-bolt and all done!

hope this helps someone...

Sean

STARSCREAM

this is a day where I am very happy 2 be a TC privateer!!!!

Dasupacat1

iTrader: (25)

That's just you. What about those who do? Regular kit + new chassis + new top deck=? Racing is never cheap my freind no matter how you look at it.
I gladly paid extra for my Type-R so I can race on ANY type surface without needing new chassis/decks. It would be nice to see kits out there that can do this.

JuhoL

IMO if you are running the same chassis on foam and rubber you are compromising a bit. Looking at the results the Type R hasnt been exactly great on asphalt races...

Even if you get the ITF kit the TC5 is still cheaper than many competitors and if you arent a serious racer you wont even need the kit.

Dasupacat1

iTrader: (25)

Umm.. didn't Mike Truhe win Reed open last year with a 3 deck prototype? He's an off road guy.
I'm NOT saying either car is better.
It does take skill and a bit of luck to win races.
No offense JL, but you being a sponsered driver. I'm not suprised by your biased opinion.

tc3 racer sc

rodney you got u a tc5 what up this is reggie hey brandon ru and marvin still going to durham

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

The clicking noise is probably the pin in the layshaft pulleys. It moves from end to end as the layshaft turns. To stop this you can put a little diff lube on the pin...It doesnt hurt anything as it is though....just annoying if you dont know what it is.

When you install the arms make sure you put the car on a flat surface and push down on the hinge pin mounts as you tighten them. This helps to keep them both flat and in the same position. When you do this it will take most all of the slop out of them as well. If they are to tight lightly tap the front and back of each arm with a wrench and it will seat the mounts the rest of the way. This is how the 007 was as well. If you ever get a mysterious tweak that you cant find check these mounts as well as they could move in a very very hard crash.

EA

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Just an FYI. I did some comparison shopping for guys that are complaining about having 2 chassis.

Tower Hobbies-----------Horizon

TC5-------345.99----------349.99
ITF Chassis-57.99------------41.49
ITF Deck-----20.19-----------21.84

Total --------424.17----------413.32
Coupon--------30.00
Total with coupon 394.17

Losi Type R at Horizon 439.99

So even without using the discount code at Tower the TC5, chassis and top deck are still cheaper than horizon. Now I know you can get the Type R cheaper other places but you can also get the TC5 cheaper as well other places. I just used the two easiest places that had both listed on their site.

EA

adamge

iTrader: (1)

Evidently, people who have it the best still complain.

Let me back up that 'have it the best' statement with some numbers.

Carpet racer buys a 007US, and runs asphalt during the summer. To switch to the proper asphalt setup, I'm looking at...

[nexusracing.com prices]
007US kit: $390
Lower deck: $80
Upper deck: $36
Front swaybars: $28
Rear swaybars: $28
Spool: $56

Total: $618

Please stop complaining about the TC5. And Type R guys, you are delusional if you think the Type R is magically exempt from the different optimizations that are demanded by the different surfaces. You just don't have a choice.

TC5 looks better and better every week.