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Stripped screws with locktite

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Stripped screws with locktite

Old 08-13-2020, 09:00 PM
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Default Stripped screws with locktite

Hi,
When building the car, I applied too much locktite and now I need to remove some screws, I actually stripped them. I tried heat (solder iron), speed out and grabit extractor with no luck.
Does anyone has better solution to remove stripped screws?
Thank you so much.

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Old 08-13-2020, 09:17 PM
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Try a dremel with a circular saw to cut a notch large enough to use a flat head tip for an impact drill motor.
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Old 08-13-2020, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by v1911 View Post
Try a dremel with a circular saw to cut a notch large enough to use a flat head tip for an impact drill motor.
an Impact???? Only need a slot and a high quality screwdriver. If not get a drillbit the same id as the thread on the screw and drill the head out.

But it may be a pain to get the rest of the screw out, you may need to heat it in the oven.
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Old 08-14-2020, 12:48 AM
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Are you sure it was caused by using too much locktite? It could be that you used the wrong type of locktite. Make sure you don't use the permanent strength stuff (usually red).
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Old 08-14-2020, 01:48 AM
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Do not be afraid that one topic isn't enough... A 2nd is not needed and also confusing getting answers on 2 places.
Stripped screw with locktite

You know dubble topics are not alowed, mostly on any forum?
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Old 08-14-2020, 08:54 AM
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Default Countersink bit?

You may be at a point where the only chance is to lop the head off. A cone-shaped bit or a countersink bit to remove the rest of the head. You can then use pliers/vice grips/etc to move it from the other piece.
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Old 08-14-2020, 06:18 PM
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For me it's rather questionable why ppl still use Locktite.
At the beginning of my rc career I suffered the same problems. After the first destroyed chassis and aluminium parts I stopped using it.

And what can I say...Locktite is really unnecessary in rc cars and causing more problems then solving them. And I built a bunch of cars...never had a loosening problem.
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Old 08-14-2020, 06:31 PM
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Use a dremel cut off wheel with a smaller worn out wheel. About 1-2 mm bigger than the size of the screw head. A larger wheel will slip and go into the Carbon Plate. It will also not dig in very deep before it reaches the edges and goes into the carbon plate. Turn up RPM as the cutting surface of the wheel will be spinning way slower.

also... Have the flat head ready to take it out while it is still "red hot" from cutting it. It makes it a little easier when it freshly hot..

I would not drill it... as it will just whomp out the countersink in the carbon plate. You need that for positioning... or it would not be countersunk.

Good luck.
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Old 08-14-2020, 07:08 PM
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if you continue drilling, the head will fall off. Then remove the part and use vice grips to grab the remaining stud. Heat with a lighter, remove.

Thread lock seems unnecessary in electric. The screws all loosen when new, but eventually that seems to stop.

There's a few screws in Nitro that I use RED threadlock. Just need to torch it for removal.
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Old 08-14-2020, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by westendorfy View Post
Use a dremel cut off wheel with a smaller worn out wheel. About 1-2 mm bigger than the size of the screw head. A larger wheel will slip and go into the Carbon Plate. It will also not dig in very deep before it reaches the edges and goes into the carbon plate. Turn up RPM as the cutting surface of the wheel will be spinning way slower.
This is exactly what I would do.
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Old 08-15-2020, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom1977 View Post
For me it's rather questionable why ppl still use Locktite.
At the beginning of my rc career I suffered the same problems. After the first destroyed chassis and aluminium parts I stopped using it.

And what can I say...Locktite is really unnecessary in rc cars and causing more problems then solving them. And I built a bunch of cars...never had a loosening problem.
Every race day when I blow the track down, I always find at least 1 screw, usually more, lying on the racing surface. I've seen a few motors die because it picked up a loose screw from the track. I always recommend a small dab of the medium strength locktite when screwing into metal components.
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Old 08-15-2020, 06:17 AM
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You have some really good answers so far that will all work.

By the looks of your photo, you didn't drill deep enough to allow the "grab it" bit to bite in.

As for blue locktite, use it sparingly. But to ensure it can be removed, do not insert the screw wet. Allow it to dry on the screw, then insert. Head of a pin amount smeared into the threads is all you need.
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Old 08-15-2020, 06:28 AM
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I've had recommended to me soldering an old driver tip into the screw and backing it out that way. Not had to try it though, as I ended up drilling the screw out.
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:49 AM
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That looks like a 1/12th scale

if so, or even a double decked carbon tc.

take all the other screws out of the parts connected. Leaving only the stripped screw.

you can then rotate the part and the screw will “bite” in the carbon and weblike loosen right on up.


No drilling no dremel to mess up the carbon with.

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Old 08-15-2020, 12:02 PM
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Use Purple Loctite (222). The blue is too strong for our tiny screws. Purple is the correct one to use.
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